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Air leak around intake?

This is a discussion on Air leak around intake? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; 98% of the time when I'm starting the engine warm, I hear a "squealing" from the engine. Normally, within 2-7 ...

  1. #1
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    Air leak around intake?

    98% of the time when I'm starting the engine warm, I hear a "squealing" from the engine. Normally, within 2-7 seconds of starting the squealing stops. Once or twice the sound doesn't cut out immediately, but shortly after I start moving, it stops.

    At first I thought it was the belt from the sound (if that helps anyone identify this type of noise,) but when I have my head in the engine I can tell that it's definitely not the belts. It seems to be from around the front of the intake, but I'm having a lot of trouble isolating where it comes from precisely. It seems to happen on a moderately warm engine. Shutting off then restarting right away does not bring back the sound. Also again, never on a cold engine.

    Any ideas what I'm looking at? ls6 or FAST will be going on this winter, so if there's an idea that it just may be a bad seal that an intake swap will fix, I'm not going to worry about it.

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    air pump...pull the air pump fuse and see if it still makes the sound

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    Yes sir, you are correct... Pulled the air pump fuse and that stopped it. Put it back in, came back.

    I looked in my copies of Chilton's and Haynes (yes, I bought both,) and there's no mention of air pump. What and where should I be looking to replace things? Any sponsor links to parts would really help here. This is something I should be able to fix on my own, right (limited auto mech knowledge, but I learn mechanical systems fast.)

    I also found that the PCV tube is burned straight through... Just another thing to add to the list, or possibly connected to this issue?

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    King 0f n00bz shady milkman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TokerM View Post
    Yes sir, you are correct... Pulled the air pump fuse and that stopped it. Put it back in, came back.

    I looked in my copies of Chilton's and Haynes (yes, I bought both,) and there's no mention of air pump. What and where should I be looking to replace things? Any sponsor links to parts would really help here. This is something I should be able to fix on my own, right (limited auto mech knowledge, but I learn mechanical systems fast.)

    I also found that the PCV tube is burned straight through... Just another thing to add to the list, or possibly connected to this issue?
    the air pump is located in the front of the car by the running lights etc..on the trans ams there is a little hatch on the bottom of the car/bumper that gives you access to the air pump...it is a emission device and can be removed without any negative effects ..however the service engine soon light will be on...most people when they get a computer tune will delete that code along with the egr.

    on the pcv tube..yes it is causing issues...i would upgrade to a ls6 valley cover personally...while it take some work ...(none of which is hard) it eliminates all that garbage piping behind the intake and on the passenger side



    this is what it looks like installed...in the next picture you will see the little connection from the cover to the intake...that is all the pcv tubing you need with it...cleans up everything a lot and removes a bunch of places for possible vacuum leaks

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    That helps immensely Jeff!!! That's twice that thread is what I'm looking for, first was for the gasket to plug the SLP lid

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    Good to hear -- let us know what you find wrong as I am curious about what the cause may be.

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    Yea... I've been doing some pricing

    I'll apologize ahead of time on non-sponsor links, if anyone can point to sponsors with what I'm look for, I'll replace these links.

    These guys are showing two pumps:


    ACDelco 2X the cost of an A1?? Seriously?

    At Summit they have a Dorman cheaper still, but I've never heard of them.

    Before I buy a new pump or even tear into the old pump to see if it's ok, I'll try to fix the broken PCV tube (burned through right near the front tube, below the TB @ the block.) Just going to replace the tube for now. Hopefully that will clean up the air pump squealing, but if it is really a squeal, there's probably a busted impeller.

    I suppose an ls6 cover will go on when I get the time. As per other threads, I want to tear out the valve covers to paint them up, check the rods, etc... Add a valley cover and we have a good 2-3 days of work (clean and paint time.) Problem is, I don't see 2 free days in a row for at least a month here. Way too much design work stacked up here

    ls6 cover will be more of a perm fix for the PCV, I found this kit, but again, I'm looking to get from a sponsor. Anyone have them?

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    the thunder kit is for the old style LS6 cover

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    LS6 valley cover in pics

    the new style LS6 does not use a PVC in the hose assembly......i tried to get the VC from my dealer....he could not even pull up the PN in his system.....he said maybe only scoggins had them......so thats where i got mine
    Last edited by sjsingle1; 10-14-2010 at 01:05 AM.

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    http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factor...parts/12577927

    this one? Half the price of the thunder. Aside from the also buying the $3.20 hose with it, any other parts I need for there? I'll also replace the knock sensors while I'm there.

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    thats the 1......might want a knock sensor wire harness....mine is throwing codes now...... and a OPSU just in case.....and the intake gaskets.....rock auto has a AC/DELCO OPSU for half the price of my dealer
    Last edited by sjsingle1; 10-14-2010 at 10:41 AM.

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    If you choose not to do the LS6 cover tray this is a quick fix you can do for about $20 and an hr or 2 of your time.

    Pics of PCV Mod and Vacum Fix
    Pics of PCV hose fix

    PCV Mod
    PCV Valve Recommendation / Housing Modification

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    I'm looking for the part #s on these...

    KS wiring harness
    OPSU (is this the one I'm looking for?)

    Anyone have them off hand?
    Last edited by TokerM; 10-15-2010 at 10:29 AM.

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    thats it......but its a few dollars cheaper on rock auto......the dealer might be the place for a harness

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjsingle1 View Post
    the dealer might be the place for a harness
    The two words I hate the most. Damn. I'm thinking I may need to go to them for the front bumper mounting bracket anyway, I can't find one of those anywhere.

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    Glad you found your problem out. FWIW, I would go with the LS6 Intake OVER the fast UNLESS your doing a complete Head/Cam swap and need the FEW EXTRA ponies the fast has over the LS6 (for like $500 more lol...) I have a 98 and the LS6 really woke up my engine as it was combined with a 224R CAM/Refreshened heads/918 springs/melling oil pump/chromoly retainers/ceramic pacesetter LT's/LS6 timing chain/LS7 lifters/...............

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    Since you mentioned the ls6 intake... That's about the only thing left for the induction to be redone. Question on going to the ls6: Should I change my TB with the intake, or will the stock TB be fine? I'm worrying that the stock will be a bottleneck-choke point. If there is a swap in there too, what TB matches up to the ls6?

    That link I had above on the OPSU was for a 6cyl, so if anyone needs to reference this, note that. I'm honestly tossing around if I really want to change that one if I don't need to... I might just hold off on it.

    I've seen all the pics of rusted knock sensors, so those are definitely going in. But for the harness:

    Dealership started by saying "that's been discontinued." Then they said that they showed a pigtail for the KS. I was thinking that sounded logical as a KS wiring harness and quoted me a price of $33 (or so.) Before going to the dealer though, I stopped at the auto parts store and they showed a KS pigtail for $10. Much better.

    Ordered it and I got:


    Well, I actually got two of them.

    Is that the correct item I'm looking for? If so, just cut out the old and splice this one in, correct?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    looks correct. And yes, you'll need to cut and splice that in. MAKE SURE your splice is water tight or you'll be back under the intake later on fixing a corroded wire issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    looks correct. And yes, you'll need to cut and splice that in. MAKE SURE your splice is water tight or you'll be back under the intake later on fixing a corroded wire issue.
    What he said above; Also on the LS6 intake I wouldn't worry about replacing the TB UNLESS you have the extra dough just lying around. I'm using my stock TB and it runs very strong. I mean, one could go to a BBK 80mm, BUT will that $350 be worth MAYBE 2-5 horsepower???? No, IMO.......Add on another $30-$40 to that 2-5hp and get a great DD cam, like a 228R.....Oh there's 50+(to the crank) useable horsepower!!!!! burnout:

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