After I fix my engine noise, what next?

[Naaman]

I'm coming up on some more income soon, and have an engine noise to address (thread here).

Depending on what the noise turns out to be, I will be doing any of numerous upgrades to it. Anyway, I believe that support mods should usually come before all the big power mods, so I don't want to get too ahead of myself in getting this engine noise delt with.

I currently have Koni's (front) and Bielstiens (rear), with SFCs, LCAs, STB, 35/19 mm hollow sway bars and Hawk HP+ pads on stock rotors.

I also have a Magnaflow cat-back, P/P throttle body, SLP lid.

My plans for the car include a K-member with upper/lower A-arms, a tunnel brace, Strano springs, and Konis on the rear, and an LS6 clutch (or should I go for LS7?) As for the rear end, I will replace it with a 12-bolt when/if it breaks.

Based on my research on my engine problem, the upgrades I'm considering seem like they will add in the neighborhood of 40-50 horsepower at the wheels. Other than the rear end, is there any recommended order in which I should do the mods in bold? Any that I am missing, or should consider for the sake of the car's consistancy/performance/usability?

I want the car to be as responsive as possible to all my inputs (steering, braking, throttle), so I want to keep weight down as much as possible, other than beefing up the chassis. And I want strong, flat cornering capabilities (at least as much as can be achieved with the live axle).

Thoughts?

[SMWS6TA]

You have some good mods already.

What power range you want to be? I ask because this will dictate what recommendations for clutch you want.

For torque bands of 550 and under the LS7 is a perfect clutch kit. The clutch feels a little heavier then stock but much better.

For serious torque a Monster or SPEC clutches recommended.

Now matter which clutch highly recommend getting a Tick Master cylinder. If you decide to get the LS7, you need to install the Tick MC at the same time other wise there are issues. The LS7 self adjusts as it wears down and this is what the Tick MC has issues with.

Another item to upgrade would be the transmission. A Stage 2.5 from Gearbox or Tick Performance makes the T56 almost bulletproof.

[Naaman]

A transmission re-build with stronger stuff is one of those things I'd really like to myself but I don't have my own garage yet...

So it seems like you're suggesting getting the powertrain sorted out first, which makes sense, so I guess I'll look at some clutches. My goals are essentially to keep it over 450 and under 500 horsepower, which is why I'm flip-flopping bewteen the LS6 and LS7 clutches.

[Firebirdjones]

I wasn't even aware the LS6 clutch was still available? I put an LS6 clutch setup in my wifes cars several years back (before the LS7 became popular) and it's holding up fine with a very mild 370 rwhp. I race the car on occasion but always with stock rubber so I've never really taxed the clutch. Works fine for our intended purpose, and that is my wife driving it daily.

If the price difference isn't all that much then I agree the LS7 is probably a good option for you. I think my next clutch for the T56 will be what I always use in the classics that have treated me good for 30+ years (Ram, Hays, Centerforce)

Used the Ram in my wifes old LT1-6speed 4th gen and worked beautiful.

[SMWS6TA]

Depending on how you look at it, the LS7 has a heavy pedal deel. Meaning you have to really push it in, first time you feel like there's a lot of push back. Don't worry you'll get use to it.

I couldn't recommend a LS6 clutch, IMHO it's the same as a LS1. I've been running my LS7 for the last 70k with no issues. Handles burn outs, hard launches, and everything else I threw at it. The only reason I'm looking at a Monster is because I plan on pushing past what the LS7 can handle.

[Firebirdjones]

LS1 and LS6 clutches are largely different.

The LS6 clutch debut in 2001 came with higher pressure plate clamp loads and a thicker heavier dics. This also became the standard clutch in all Fbodies in 2001.

However in 2002 the setup was improved even more. A second pressure plate was released with increased clamp load over the 2001 version to 2,475 lbs, an increase of 7%.
Disc was also improved further with a thicker hub, and higher rate damper springs made of premium alloy steel wire now to increase windup rate from 33 newton meters on the 2001 version to 35 newton meter degrees. The thickness of the disc increased to 6mm (previously 5mm)

This clutch became standard in all 2002 Fbodies and you also got this upgraded clutch when buying an LS6 clutch setup over the counter.

Definately a step or two over an LS1 setup, however the torque capacity is directly related to the weight of the car. Originally designed for a light weight Z06 of about 3100 lbs (mine weighs 3120 lbs) when installed in a heavier F-body the capacity of the clutch drops (my F body weighs 3,560 lbs)
My F body dyno'd at 370 rwhp and TQ and this clutch has been in there for about 6-7 years now without a single hickup. Great stock pedal feel that suits my wife who drives it daily. It was an upgrade from the stock 2000 LS1 clutch the car had, and frankly, was the only factory upgrade clutch available at the time since the new 2006 LS7 Z06 had just barely hit the streets at that time.
However If I were to push this car past the 400 rwhp realm I'd probably go straight for an aftermarket setup. Since the original poster mentions only looking at a 40-50 HP bump in power, the LS6 is more than capable (as that's about exactly my HP bump and combo), but if the mod bug bites and you want more, I'd plan ahead and buy a clutch that gives you more wiggle room to grow.

[Naaman]

Ah, okay. Great info. I was considering the LS6 because it's lighter weight, but now that I'm looking past 400 horsepower (in the long term), which is right around where the LS6 engine lives, seems like the LS7 will do the job. I like the idea of a factory clutch over a 3rd party one, and am trying to use as many GM parts as possible when upgrading my car.

FBJ, I'm also driving a convertible. We should go cruising around AZ when the weather cools off... I'm down in the PHX area.

[Firebirdjones]

Ah good to know, then I'd do what SMW suggested and give the LS7 setup a try.

I'm down in Phoenix quite a bit, either 67th and Bell, or the Pavilions. Usually the Fbody club down there does a cruise once a month that I like to participate in too. I'm sure we could hook up at something, sounds like fun.

[SMWS6TA]

fbj, thanks for the info on the LS6 clutch.

[35th-ANV-SS]

My SPEC stage 3+ clutch, which is rated for 850 lb-ft of torque, doesn't feel much different than the stock clutch to me. Never felt a LS7 clutch, but it can't be anywhere near my clutch being it's only rated around 500 lb-ft of torque.

Please also remember when suggesting the LS7 clutch, that its power rating is for use in a Corvette, which is much lighter than an F-body. That makes a big difference too. However, the LS7 clutch is a great DD clutch which a lot of people have had much success with.

[Naaman]

Yeah, I hadn't thought of that until people mentioned it here... on the other hand, I plan to reduce weight of my car, as well. Not sure if I can pull 300 pounds out of it and still have it function like I'd prefer, but, I figure yanking out the EGR, AIR, lightweight battery, K-Member, light weight (C5 Magnesium) wheels, etc might get me close to 3200 lbs.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Don't see it listed - do you have headers? Assuming you do.

[Naaman]

Nope. No headers yet. It was next on my list until this came along.

[35th-ANV-SS]

That would be the very first thing I do then.

[Naaman]

Yeah... If I can get a good enough deal, I'll do it. I just don't want to spend a few grand to open up the engine, and then put it back together and have nothing to show for it.

I figure a tune will allow me to run a heads/cam with stock exhaust just fine, won't it? And when I get the headers, I'll get it tuned again. It's just that since I don't know when I'll be able to afford the headers, I don't want to wait until the noise causes even more problems.

At least with the engine noise issue, I can justify replacing the problem parts.

Speaking of headers, anyone know if being a convertible affects what will fit? Due to some of my other plans, I think Kook's would be my best choice, but their website doesn't specifically indicate whether it matters if the car is a vert. I know that for other mods that run along the undercarriage, it makes a difference. Just wondering of headers would, too.

[SMWS6TA]

shouldn't effect anything, except what SFC's you should use.

[35th-ANV-SS]

I personally wouldn't run an aftermarket heads/can combo on stock headers. You need more volume to allow the exhaust gases to escape faster. That, and paying for a tune twice is wasting a lot of money you can spend on other mods. You've waited this long, just save up to do headers too. If money is an issue, why not just get OBX E-bay headers? Lots of people here run them and like them. Can't argue getting Kooks though. I have them and they're gorgeous.

[Naaman]

I've learned in life to listen to those who have come before me, which is why it has taken me this long to get anything at all done on my car. And as long as I can keep getting away with driving my wife's car to work to keep from driving too much with a potentially dangerous issue, I will. I just really don't want to have to put several grand into a "repair."

I was under the impression that a tune cost in the couple-hundreds of dollars... is it typically more than that?

As far as a "budget" header/Y-pipe, I've been looking at BBK for a while now. If I could have the world on a platter, I'd go for a set of 1-7/8" into a 2-3/4" y-pipe, but BBK only offers the 1-3/4" into a 2.5" Y. You think that is "enough" to deal with better head flow, or would the 1-7/8" be a more appropriate size?

[35th-ANV-SS]

1-3/4" is fine for what you are doing.

A street/dyno tune will run you in the neighborhood of $500. This is why Frost's mail-order tune is so attractive to so many people being he only charges $150. Before you ask, no, it is not recommended to get a mail-order tune when doing internal work like you are; heads/cam. Find a reputable tuner to go to also. One that is well versed in LSX platform motors. A tune will either make you one happy customer (like myself), or miserable. It's probably the most important thing to consider on a vehicle with modifications.

As long as you get a decent stainless steel header, and the price is right, go for it. I would get stainless though. Do it once. They will last the life of the car, or should. Coated headers will not.

[Naaman]

Here is a video of the noise. It actually sounds clearer on the camera than on my laptop speakers. If you have decent speakers on your computer, you might be able to pick it up better.

I was unable to capture the noise from inside the car, but it is clearly audible. Once I opened the door, however, it very easy to hear. (Video isn't embedding, so there's a link in case it won't show up for you).

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...97345059867611