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After I fix my engine noise, what next?

This is a discussion on After I fix my engine noise, what next? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Man I hate to say this but that is the exact sound mine made prior to it's...

  1. #21
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Man I hate to say this but that is the exact sound mine made prior to it's

  2. #22
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I've learned listening to and trying to diagnose problems via "noise" over the internet is almost always impossible. I won't have access to a computer until tmr. Always use my phone app for the site
    It's on jackstands.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Man I hate to say this but that is the exact sound mine made prior to it's
    LOL!!! More mods, I guess... Lemme see if I can find find the cash for them...
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    Mmmm... nope, no luck!

  4. #24
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    well, if you were planning on a stroker you now have justification to do so.....

  5. #25
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    I know... just means I have to encourage my wife to find a job.As for having the noise isolated, what do you recommend: Ask for a full tear down just in case?

  6. #26
    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    BLACK
    1998 PONTIAC TA

    I'm 95% sure that's not an exhaust leak. It sounds like low oil pressure may have caused the lifter to screw up. It really sounds like it's somewhere in the valve train, passenger side to me.

  7. #27
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    IF a shop is doing it I'd have them pull the oil pan first, rule out spun bearings. It's a job hard to do in the car because they have to lift the block up enough to get the oil pan to clear the k member but it's possible. Rule that out 1st because it's the most expensive and requires pulling the block to fix.

    Another reason is I believe it will be slightly shorter time to pull the oil pan then it is to pull the heads to check the lifters. Parts wise cheaper too, because you just need to change the oil & filter, with heads you still end up changing the oil, filter, now you add on 2 gaskets, coolant, and possible lifters & push rods.

    Here is a way to check if it is a spun bearing - swap out current oil with a heavier grade oil. If a bearing is loose the heavier oil will quiet it down for a little time. Enough that you'll hear a difference almost immediately. If you do this and the sound goes away most likely it's a bearing on it's way out. Better for your wallet to fix now then later. Trust me.

    Please understand this is only my opinion looking at the video, I could be wrong and it's something else.


    Read this thread, Another 98 too: Build Thread 2.0

  8. #28
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    98 Z28 Vert M6

    I will definitely check out that thread, but I have to get to bed. But I did wan to say this: I tried using Lucas Oil stabilizer to address the noise (it thickens up the oil, and goes in in place of 1 quart). The noise DID NOT change. I was also told that the thicker oil would compensate for a starved lifter, which is actually why I tried it.

    I'm still going to have the bottom end looked at, but there is a little bit of solace there, knowing that it's at least less likely to be the bearings.

  9. #29
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    98 Z28 Vert M6

    I've got an appointment with Top Gear Motorsports on the 8th. And I was thinking about all the stuff that comes along with big power gains. Most notably, bigger tires. Since my wheels are only 9.5" wide in the back, the most they'll hold is a 285 tire. Looking at other cars that make in the neighborhood of 500 horsepower, I would need at least 295s out back. But the Z06 uses 325s, and the ZL1 uses 305s, while the 5th gen SS uses 295s. That would require me to get new wheels AND tires, and with that, most likely, a new rear end, and I'm just not prepared to put ALL that money in right now.

    So, in order for my car to be safe to drive, I think I'm going to go in stages. If I can afford it, I will put headers on at the same time. If not, I may just be getting a cam and valvtrain swap, with headers and cylinder head to follow near the end of the year.

    In any case, I spoke to the shop manager, who recommends a Lunati billet cam with a custom grind for $450. Also, the valve train is going to run me in the neighborhood of $500. Add in an oil pump and timing chain and I will be getting close to (or over) $2000.

    I'm prepared for this to be an expensive venture (and to save up the cash), but I also need to get my car back on the road. What do you all think? A mild cam for now, and sometime in the fall, headers, cyl heads, clutch, etc...

  10. #30
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    My car dead hooks on the street from a 1st gear roll with 500rwhp. I run a 275/40 R17 tire on a stock OEM rim width of 9.5". I get zero spin at WOT going into 2nd or 3rd. That was with newer Nitto 555R Drag Radials.

    A majority of traction comes from your suspension setup.

  11. #31
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Good to know, sir. Thank you. Is your suspension set up for drag racing? I may do some drag racing one day, but for now, all I really want is a suspension/chassis set up that handles twisties and elevation changes as well as possible. Can the car be set up for that with basic parts (basic Koni yellows, Strano springs/sway bars, SFCs, etc)? I see you have a suspension similar to what I'm aiming for... but I also like to run all season tires all year round, in case that matters.

    Anyway, as for traction, I'm want maximum traction in daily driving and curvy roads/corner exit scenarios. Are you saying that I can achieve that on 275s or 285s?

  12. #32
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Sean at Top Gear will treat you good. I've dealt with him and his father before, good people. I wouldn't hesitate letting him do the work if that's the situation you're in. If it turns out to be valve train, he'll do a nice custom grind cam that fits your needs. Lunati is excellent I'd do headers and "Y" at the same time while it's there, get it tuned, and worry about the rest of it as funds allow.

    Stock catback, stock tires etc....can all be changed later on down the road if you feel the need and have the extra cash. I hope it turns out to be as simple as valve train. That's relatively easy and cheaper to fix. A bottom end issue gets expensive in a hurry.

  13. #33
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    98 Z28 Vert M6

    I'm glad to hear that. He didn't give me a quote or estimate at all for the issue. He just said he would charge me whatever he thought was fair for diagnosis. But, given his attitude on the phone, I got the impression that he would be more likely to charge less than book time, rather than more. I was pleased by the way he dealt with me over the phone, so I'm pretty hopeful that I can get this resolved at a much better price than most other places.

  14. #34
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Good to know, sir. Thank you. Is your suspension set up for drag racing? I may do some drag racing one day, but for now, all I really want is a suspension/chassis set up that handles twisties and elevation changes as well as possible. Can the car be set up for that with basic parts (basic Koni yellows, Strano springs/sway bars, SFCs, etc)? I see you have a suspension similar to what I'm aiming for... but I also like to run all season tires all year round, in case that matters.

    Anyway, as for traction, I'm want maximum traction in daily driving and curvy roads/corner exit scenarios. Are you saying that I can achieve that on 275s or 285s?
    I drive the car on the street 99% of the time. I rarely make it down the 1/4 mile. Maybe go a handful, if that, times a year. The only suspension component I have installed which I feel is more geared towards drag racing is my torque arm since it's a tunnel mount. Most DD cars will chose a full-length torque arm due to less noise transmitted into the cabin of the vehicle.

    Whether you plan to use a standard street tire, or a drag radial, the outcome for more traction will always be the same - more contact area to the ground = more traction.

    I was just simply stating that you do not need a 335 tire to get traction if your suspension is up to snuff.

  15. #35
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Took the Z to Top Gear and saw Sean. He took one look the engine bay and noted it was a 98. That scored some points with me right there. Dealer can't even do that.

    Anyway, he listened to it, checked the gauges and noted that the oil pressure was about 10 lbs low. So he says Melling high pressure pump, timing chain and labor is ~$600 out the door. He also recommends switching from Mobil 1 (specifically) to either dino oil (Shell Rotella, in particular) or Amsoil, Penzoil or some other synthetic. He mentioned that CompCams specifically recommends against Mobil 1 for the LS.

    If he's right, that means I can get the noise taken care of on the cheap, and then get back to my planned build schedule. Headers before internals, etc. plus get some of the support upgrades out of the way.

  16. #36
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    Hope that works out for you. Where is this guy located at?

  17. #37
    expensive tires az gt eater's Avatar
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    I just listened to your vid, and that does not sound good. Good luck man. Glad I only have the piston slap.

  18. #38
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    Took the Z to Top Gear and saw Sean. He took one look the engine bay and noted it was a 98. That scored some points with me right there. Dealer can't even do that.

    Anyway, he listened to it, checked the gauges and noted that the oil pressure was about 10 lbs low. So he says Melling high pressure pump, timing chain and labor is ~$600 out the door. He also recommends switching from Mobil 1 (specifically) to either dino oil (Shell Rotella, in particular) or Amsoil, Penzoil or some other synthetic. He mentioned that CompCams specifically recommends against Mobil 1 for the LS.

    If he's right, that means I can get the noise taken care of on the cheap, and then get back to my planned build schedule. Headers before internals, etc. plus get some of the support upgrades out of the way.
    Yeah Mobil 1 isn't the oil it used to be. 2-3 years back they changed their base stock and started using lesser quality (making the oil cheaper) yet still charging a premium to the consumer.

    For dino oils I use both Shell Rotella (even the zinc content in that has diminished some, the Delo oil is also good) and valvoline 20w-50 racing oil for it's higher zinc content and use this stuff in my flat tappet engines. For synthetics in the LS engines and other roller cam engines I use Pennzoil Platnum.

  19. #39
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Also a fan of Pennzoil Platinum. Been using it since day 1 without issue.

  20. #40
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by az gt eater View Post
    Hope that works out for you. Where is this guy located at?
    He's in Mesa, off of McKellips, west of Higly. It's a long drive, but he comes highly recommended in a lot of F-Body circles. All the good shops tend to be on the east side, anyway...

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