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99 z28 lag/stutter please help!!

This is a discussion on 99 z28 lag/stutter please help!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; That is what it looks like....

  1. #41
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    That is what it looks like.

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    Does the car idle high?

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    Idle appears to be running around 780 rpm, so just a bit higher than normal.

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    Junior Member clewis05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Idle appears to be running around 780 rpm, so just a bit higher than normal.
    Attachment 25843

    Been super busy so just finally got back on my car. I went ahead and replaced my MAF sensor and put on off brand O2 sensors like the PN 13111. Arent the Bosch. And shit has hit the fan so to speak. It smells like it is dumping even more fuel than before. I attached a quick 20 frame system run. What am I doing wrong??? If you look at frame 10 you can see the idle drops way down and when that happens the fuel smell is really strong and smoke starts coming out of the exhaust pipes.

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    Your driver side O2 sender is still showing zero volts -- that is why it is dumping fuel and maxing out your fuel trims.

    1. Pull apart the harness connectors to the driver side O2 sender and see if you have a bent or corroded pin.

    2. If the pins look good, check out the female side of the connector to see if any issues are apparent.

    3. If that all looks good - trace the O2 sender harness as far as you can and see if there is any obvious damage or melting.

    4. If all looks good - check your fuses under the hood to see if any are cooked.

    5. If that all checks out, disconnect your battery, unbolt and carefully remove the wire connections to the PCM. Again, carefully inspect the pins and sockets for damage or corrosion. If all there appears good, carefully plug the connectors back it (make sure the rubber gasket is positioned correctly) and then torque the retaining bolt to spec (gentle!).

    Post back up what you find if this all appears good - we'll then run through the diagnostic in the service manual. You will need a DVOM and maybe a test light.

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    Junior Member clewis05's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Your driver side O2 sender is still showing zero volts -- that is why it is dumping fuel and maxing out your fuel trims.

    1. Pull apart the harness connectors to the driver side O2 sender and see if you have a bent or corroded pin.

    2. If the pins look good, check out the female side of the connector to see if any issues are apparent.

    3. If that all looks good - trace the O2 sender harness as far as you can and see if there is any obvious damage or melting.

    4. If all looks good - check your fuses under the hood to see if any are cooked.

    5. If that all checks out, disconnect your battery, unbolt and carefully remove the wire connections to the PCM. Again, carefully inspect the pins and sockets for damage or corrosion. If all there appears good, carefully plug the connectors back it (make sure the rubber gasket is positioned correctly) and then torque the retaining bolt to spec (gentle!).

    Post back up what you find if this all appears good - we'll then run through the diagnostic in the service manual. You will need a DVOM and maybe a test light.

    Ok Jeff I did everything you said. Did not find any damage to the sender or wiring harness. No damage or blown fuses. Checked PCM connectors, there was no damage there either. I went ahead and ran another scan and did some frames with the RPM at normal, 1000, and 2000. Have a look. The code it is throwing is P0131 saying there is low voltage to bank1 sensor 1.

    Attachment 25859

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    Try switching the o2 sensor to the other side, see if the problem moves...
    Quote Originally Posted by 86 IROC-Z View Post
    Probably, the next time I see her, whisper in her ear, "Lets not turn this rape into a murder."
    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Let me know how that works out for you.

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    Junior Member clewis05's Avatar
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    Already tried that. Problem stayed at bank1 sensor1

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    Still no voltage on your driver side O2 sender. You'll need to start checking things with a multimeter. The code it is throwing is entirely correct... I am going to grab my service manual this evening and I'll post the diagnostic for a low volt. It may be later this evening before I am able to do so -- like 10:00 p.m. EST. PM sent.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Still no voltage on your driver side O2 sender. You'll need to start checking things with a multimeter. The code it is throwing is entirely correct... I am going to grab my service manual this evening and I'll post the diagnostic for a low volt. It may be later this evening before I am able to do so -- like 10:00 p.m. EST. PM sent.
    Alright Jeff. No rush I got another vehicle to drive right now

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    In the instance it turns out to be bad PCM, could you turn off bank 1 sensor 1, and turn bank 1 sensor 2 back on, and use it to calibrate fuel trims?

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    Well... nuts. I just posted the pages and realized I grabbed them from the 3.8 engine section. Let's try this again.

  13. #53
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    lol might be a dumb question but where exactly are you posting these pages??

    Click for full size 1999 CHEVY CAMARO Z28 M6 LS1 PACESETTER LT 3" ORY TUNED BY FROST

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    Right click on these and then copy and paste them to your computer. You can then print them and see them full size.








    I am working on my Suburban right now... will come back later to review this.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by clewis05 View Post
    lol might be a dumb question but where exactly are you posting these pages??


    I deleted my first post after I realized what I had done.

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    Your O2 sender voltage is completely dead showing 0.00 so it almost has to be a wiring or connection issue. I will have to post schematics for your O2 sender as they are contained in a separate part of the manual. Essentially, we will then test for voltage and ground at the connector for the O2 sender. Do you have a multimeter?

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    Copy this one to your computer as well and then we'll get started. Let me know when you are ready...



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    just a couple of quick questions......what brand and part number are the O2's you're running? Do you currently have any O2 extensions hooked up? Were the pcm side of the O2 connectors cut at all?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Your O2 sender voltage is completely dead showing 0.00 so it almost has to be a wiring or connection issue. I will have to post schematics for your O2 sender as they are contained in a separate part of the manual. Essentially, we will then test for voltage and ground at the connector for the O2 sender. Do you have a multimeter?
    Ok. I copied all of them to the computer. Yes I do have a multimeter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    just a couple of quick questions......what brand and part number are the O2's you're running? Do you currently have any O2 extensions hooked up? Were the pcm side of the O2 connectors cut at all?
    The brand is an off brand of the Bosch part # 13111. No extensions bc the pigtails are long. No damage done to any of it.

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    For the front O2 senders, the connectors on the vehicle harness (not the senders) should have four (4) wires: Pink, Black, Purple/White and Tan/White on both the driver and passenger side. The Pink and Black wires are the heater circuits for each sender. With the ignition energized, you should have 12 volts on the Pink wires. For the Black wires you should have continuity to ground.

    Next check the senders themselves for a blown heater circuit. Eyeball the male and female side of the connectors to determine which wires on the O2 senders match up to the Pink and Black wires on the vehicle harness. Perform a continuity test on the heater circuit by then probing those two wires on the O2 sender harness (not the vehicle). If the heater circuit is good, you should have continuity. If the heater is blown, you will have an open circuit and no continuity.

    If that tests ok, then let's probe for power to the sensor portion of the senders. With the sensors still unplugged, rig a jumper wire from a good chassis ground to the Tan/White wire (which is the low signal circuit). Hook up your scanner and without starting the vehicle energize the ignition. You should see from 350 mV to 550 mV on your scanner (not your multimeter) for the jumpered sensor. (See Step 4 in the diagnostic chart if you need further explanation of this test).

    Be sure to check both Bank 1 (driver side) and Bank 2 (passenger side) so that you can compare your results. Bank 2 appears to be working correctly, so you should only find an issue on Bank 1. Post up your test results when completed.

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