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99 Trans Am WS6 will crank over but not start

This is a discussion on 99 Trans Am WS6 will crank over but not start within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have a 99 Trans Am WS6 that is stored in my heated garage. I have not driven the car ...

  1. #1
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    99 Trans Am WS6 will crank over but not start

    I have a 99 Trans Am WS6 that is stored in my heated garage. I have not driven the car in about 5 years. It only had 1/4 tank of gas in it and I did put some Seafoam in the gas. I used to start it occasionally and let it run for awhile. The car only has 6000 miles on it and has never given me any issues. I went out to start it the other day and it won't start. The engine will crank over but not start. I sprayed some started fluid in the intake and the car starts but shuts off after it burns out the starter fluid. I thought maybe the gas is bad, cause it did smell bad so I siphoned out the old gas and put in about 2 gallons of fresh gas in it. It still won't start. It will start and run as long as you keep squirting starter fluid in it. I noticed when I am letting the engine crank over the gauges will jump back and forth? The security light does not come on but the service engine soon light will. I have ran a scan tool on it but there are no codes. I have also unhooked the battery and let it sit and tried it. I pushed in the Schrader valve with a screw driver while the car was just sitting there and it shot out a little air but that was it. I think I can hear the pump priming when you turn on the key and the relay clicks on and off. I have tried switching relays and checked fuses. What should be my next step to try? Do you think the gas has gummed up my fuel filter or injectors? Thanks for any help. The last time I started it was probably 3 months ago and it ran perfect.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Try some fuel system cleaner with some more fresh gas and see if she fires up.

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    Are you thinking that 2 gallons of fuel is not enough or what? Any other suggestions?

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    I would start with more premium fuel, Techron, a fuel pressure gauge and a volt meter. These items should get you on your way.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    Check the fuel pressure - you should have 58 p.s.i. at the rail when you energize the ignition. If not, start by swapping out the fuel filter which is located under the car, driver side, in front of the rear axle. Today's ethanol blended fuels are hard on older fuel systems. I don't think that Seafoam is a "stabilizer", rather it is a cleaner type product more akin to a solvent. I am almost betting that your fuel sock in the tank is going to be gummed up and is not allowing fuel into the pump canister.

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    Well I got around to working on the car again and still no luck. I have changed the fuel filter and noticed when I did there was no pressure on the line. I pushed in the Schrader valve and nothing. I took out the relay for the fuel pump with the ignition off and installed a jumper wire and checked voltage at the connector under the car that goes up to the fuel pump. I only get 12 volts on one wire. There are two connectors...one has 2 wires and the other has 7. I am thinking that the one with 12 volts was a grey wire. Is there anything else that would not let the pump come on? What are all these friggen wires for? I can't hear anything when I plug the connectors back in while the jumper is in and I don't hear anything when I key on at the pump either. I can't understand how the fuel pump would be bad on a car with 6000 miles that has been garage kept. I dread changing it....my exhaust is all welded together and I have an elaborate sound system in the hatch that would have to be removed to do an access panel. This sucks for a car that I don't even drive anymore.

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    Anyone??

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Elaborate sound system? How is it held in place? I only ask as I am thinking possibly a severed fuel pump/ground wire if sheetmetal screws were used to hold the box(es) in place.

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    No I wish it were that simple. The enclosure is bolted in. I have had 3 F-bodies, 94 Formula, 96 TA, and 99 WS6 TA. I personally did all the stereo work so I am familiar with everything in place.

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by REDVENOM View Post
    Well I got around to working on the car again and still no luck. I have changed the fuel filter and noticed when I did there was no pressure on the line. I pushed in the Schrader valve and nothing. I took out the relay for the fuel pump with the ignition off and installed a jumper wire and checked voltage at the connector under the car that goes up to the fuel pump. I only get 12 volts on one wire. There are two connectors...one has 2 wires and the other has 7. I am thinking that the one with 12 volts was a grey wire. Is there anything else that would not let the pump come on? What are all these friggen wires for? I can't hear anything when I plug the connectors back in while the jumper is in and I don't hear anything when I key on at the pump either. I can't understand how the fuel pump would be bad on a car with 6000 miles that has been garage kept. I dread changing it....my exhaust is all welded together and I have an elaborate sound system in the hatch that would have to be removed to do an access panel. This sucks for a car that I don't even drive anymore.
    even though the pump has rarely ever been used, its still a minimum of 10years old. Have you tried tapping the fuel tank a couple of good times with a hammer? Sometimes if a fuel pump is on its way out, a nice little jolt can make them kick on...that isnt a permanent fix BUT it'll let you know if the pump is the problem. Had to do that on a tahoe a while back and it worked perfectly its also easier than dropping the tank to check it out...it allowed me to limp it home so that I could swap the pump.
    Last edited by theorangeguy; 11-04-2013 at 07:44 AM.

  11. #11
    Junior Member ls1newbe's Avatar
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    I just had a VERY similar problem. Bought a car that was not driven very much and on the way home the car died out. It turned out to be the fuel pump. I went with some advise from a fellow LS1 fellow to buy a racetronic fuel pump and am very happy with the results. Hope you figure out your problem and my advise is to remove your sound system and cut access panel because I ended up having to get into mine again and it is MUCH easier with the access panel. Good luck friend.

  12. #12
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Any updates?

  13. #13
    Member RONS98TA's Avatar
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    I think you should sell that 6000 mile car to me for about........$10k. Just kidding. Like others have said, I think your fuel system is jacked from sitting. I would remove the sound system, make an access panel, and replace the pump. Even if the pump is okay, It's a GREAT upgrade. Then change out the fuel filter. While the filter is off, take an air hose and blow out the fuel lines. Take the schrader valve out of the fuel rail on the intake BEFORE you try to blow it out. If all that pans out, you may have to remove the injectors and clean them up to. The fact the car starts and runs when you use the starting fluid tells me it's a fuel issue. Good luck and hope you fix her up. If not, I will still buy it!!

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