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98 Z28 leaks

This is a discussion on 98 Z28 leaks within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by JacobLS1 Where's the breather on the 10bolt? IIRC, it's on the passenger side just forward of the ...

  1. #21
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JacobLS1 View Post
    Where's the breather on the 10bolt?

    IIRC, it's on the passenger side just forward of the diff, it's a little plastic tube, some have a little breather cap there.

    If you are facing the diff from the drive shaft side it will be @ about 10-11 o-clock position to left of the yolk.
    Last edited by Smittro; 03-14-2012 at 09:30 AM.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    on the top I believe on the passenger side

  3. #23
    Member JacobLS1's Avatar
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    Ill check the breather, but my main concern is the engine oil. I was a quart low and a few drips turned into a puddle. Rear main?
    1998 Z28: Bolt-ons, Stage ? 4L60E. 250rwhp@6500Ft (R.I.P 5/1/2013)

    1998 Mystic Teal Trans Am: Bone stock. (In process)

  4. #24
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    could be near the oil filter. On top of the filter there is a spot that for some reason leaks. I don't have a pic to show you but I know someone will post.

  5. #25
    Member JacobLS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA:2756552
    could be near the oil filter. On top of the filter there is a spot that for some reason leaks. I don't have a pic to show you but I know someone will post.
    Ill look, but it was running down the opposite side of the filter last I checked.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JacobLS1 View Post
    The axle seal is good, i replaced them not too long ago.

    Attachment 23801

    That's where its leaking from.
    Weld it and be done with it.

  7. #27
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    ^^ I was thinking the same thing.

  8. #28
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    The oil pan gaskets like to leak -- I just changed mine. Thought for sure it was a rear main leaking but when I pulled the trans everything was bone dry on the back of the engine.

  9. #29
    Member JacobLS1's Avatar
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    I was planning on dropping the pan soon. I don't think it'd be wise to wait another 4000 miles for my next oil change. I was looking at the felpro gasket. Its 10$ more . Thoughts?

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    I bought one right from GM. The stock gasket is riveted to the pan in two places. You have to drill the rivets to remove it, but no need to install new rivets per the service manual.

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    Also, don't forget to put a dab of RTV at all four corners where the front and rear engine plates meet the block.

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    Looked again today, now it looks like the oil filter side. I'm going to do the gasket next weekend. I believe someone said in your thread (Jeff) about using the STB to tie up the engine when you lower the K-member. Where are the best places to attach a strap?

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    Details and pics of the setup I used are in this thread: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/k-membe...grades-163761/

  14. #34
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    what size bolt did you use to bolt into the heads?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JacobLS1 View Post
    what size bolt did you use to bolt into the heads?
    Good question, I just matched up the bolt I removed from the driver side head with a longer pair from my bolt collection. Didn't pay any attention to the actual size... sorry.

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    I checked this morning -- the bolts are M10 x 1.5 and you'll want them to be at least 2 inches in length. That will give you plenty of thread in the head and a little slack on the chain link so it can move freely.

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    Thanks! Ill probably chain it to the STB and have a jack support the crank pulley. Called Chevy, they wanted $50 for the gasket.

  18. #38
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    I never recommend supporting an engine by the crank pulley. Just chain it up good and you'll be fine. If you want to place a support under the car for additional safety do it near the bellhousing, but keep the weight on the chains as much as possible.

  19. #39
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    Got it. Off topic. Does the k-member need to come off to swap the steering rack?

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    Nope, but you'll need to cut the bolt for the driver side mount. No way to get it out unless you really feel like dropping the K-member. Then just install a replacement bolt from below and you'll be all set.

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