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98 V6 to LS1 Swap

This is a discussion on 98 V6 to LS1 Swap within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by cammed goat No one is flaming anyone. We are all giving the OP ideas for his build. ...

  1. #21
    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    No one is flaming anyone. We are all giving the OP ideas for his build.

    Let's keep this civil or posts get deleted and thread bans are handed out. NO ONE IS DUMB IN THIS FORUM.
    No read the posts everyone is bashing my opinion and I never said they r dumb I said they r "being" dumb and if I get banned for my opinion that would be low.

    I guess back to the OP's thread!

  2. #22
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Well, then let the ideas commence. I for one want to see a V6 to V8 swap.
    Smittro likes this.

  3. #23
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    To the OP:

    It would'nt be me if I did'nt mention this option also..



    OR THIS:
    Last edited by Smittro; 01-14-2012 at 03:48 PM.
    :\Users\Steven\Pictures\d6ftg5nh.gif


    Suggestion: If you are particularly irritated by another member's posting habits and are constantly fighting the urge to flame them, you can click on that person's profile, and select "Add to ignore list." This will make that person's posts invisible to you.

  4. #24
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Eaton M90 in the top pic?

  5. #25
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    I appreciate everyones advice and tips on the swap, the 3.8 in the car is shot so a V8 swap is the direction I am heading. I have considered a 6.0 swap from a truck which would be a little more cost effective. I recently read a post on another forum it took this guy about 5 days to complete the same swap I am working on but he bought a donor car and making sure to see what connections need to repinned or modified for the injectors was a big part of the swap.

    (B) Will the stock control arms work on a after market k member a stock one of course would be cheaper but if I choose to spend the extra money I wasnt sure if it would work.
    Last edited by cade75; 01-14-2012 at 04:33 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cade75 View Post
    I appreciate everyones advice and tips on the swap, the 3.8 in the car is shot so a V8 swap is the direction I am heading. I have considered a 6.0 swap from a truck which would be a little more cost effective. I recently read a post on another forum it took this guy about 5 days to complete the same swap I am working on but he bought a donor car and making sure to see what connections need to repinned or modified for the injectors was a big part of the swap.

    (B) Will the stock control arms work on a after market k member a stock one of course would be cheaper but if I choose to spend the extra money I wasnt sure if it would work.
    Well many of the things on the 3800-II harness will just not work with the LS1.

    The injector harness only has 12 pins and you'll need 16 for the ls1 injectors.

    Also the LS1 has dual 2-wire knock sensors and the 3800-II has dual single wire knock sensors.

    As far as the after market K member to stock LCA's I can't comment.

  7. #27
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    I think your stock A-arms would work. You *MIGHT* have to swap over to stiffer springs, but I could be wrong.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Eaton M90 in the top pic?
    The input neck suggests an older style eaton, but it may well be a modded unit that was pieced together.

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    Stock control arms do work on most aftermarket k members. usually the company will put that info in the description of the k member

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    Your right on the springs will need to be changed, the look would be killer but I am not trying to tear anything up by running a spring combo that was not designed for that weight. The injector harness is what I was uncertain about the guy had the hold car so I wasnt sure why he had to repin and mod the harness.

    If I go with the 6.0 truck motor and ecm what about the accessory harness the V6 shell is a base model so no power locks or windows.

  11. #31
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    If you want power accessories, you will need the wiring, the door lock actuators, the window motors and harnesses and the body control module. I might be missing something. If you want to keep the manual windows and doorlocks, then you don't need anything else.

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    The suspension will be fine.

    I'm 99% sure the springs are the same between LS1 and V6 cars. I say this because, believe it or not, the 3800 is heavier than an LS1. Iron Block and Iron Heads are not light by any means. Trust me, I've lifted both by myself, and the LS motor is slightly lighter.

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    I've also swapped V8s into V6 cars without changing springs (80s GM G-bodies). It can be done and not be a major problem. Its something you can think about down the road if you want.

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    Thanks for the tip it will save some, Any suggestions on using a 6.0 cast iron block set up?

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    I'm looking for a the torquer v2 and tfs 225cc heads...Looks good on paper but eh.

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    These guys are right about the coil springs.

    The 3800 fully dressed is ~ 500 lbs or so, and the LS1 fully dressed is just under that.

    Sorry, had 3.4l v6 f-body on the brain for some reason.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    The suspension will be fine.

    I'm 99% sure the springs are the same between LS1 and V6 cars. I say this because, believe it or not, the 3800 is heavier than an LS1. Iron Block and Iron Heads are not light by any means. Trust me, I've lifted both by myself, and the LS motor is slightly lighter.
    Ya I have a new set of 3800-II heads sitting here and they are heavy suckers.

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    Will the V6 drive shaft work for daily driving until I order the aftermarket one, or should I just go ahead and get a stock piece off of a Z?

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    Should as long as it's the one piece steel unit and not the 2 piece.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cade75 View Post
    Will the V6 drive shaft work for daily driving until I order the aftermarket one, or should I just go ahead and get a stock piece off of a Z?
    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Should as long as it's the one piece steel unit and not the 2 piece.
    You'll blow the two piece apart on your first real WOT pull.

    Get a single piece...steel is ok, aluminum would be better. I have my stock aluminum off my WS6 if you're interested.

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