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03-24-2009, 10:32 AM #1
500RPM idle low? Dies occasionally
So it's been 6 months since i started my car and it fired right up today the first time. Idle was rather low around 500RPMS and when i put it in gear after letting it warm up it died. Good thing too! I was pulling out of the garage and a bright red jeep went by at about 30 mph. Even though I was inching out of the garage she would of hit me. Dumb bitch...
I noticed bright green shit droppings all over the intake and where the battery was...everywhere. The rat poison was bright green so hopefully that took care of all the mice. Doesn't look to be anything torn up yet or any nests of any kind, so i am praying the poison took care of all them.
Anyways, I remember it died at the light before I put it into storage 6 months ago and it did it to me twice on the way to the other garage where I am going to keep it today. I know i threw a bank 1, sensor 1? code..can't remember which one...driver o2 sensor though. Pretty sure that is front driver's side. I figured it was just another code for having long tube headers...since i have no cats...i have no rear o2s. Which codes will i throw and do i need to worry about a bank 1 sensor 1?An o2 can cause all of this right? Low idle and dying. The SES light hasn't come on since i cleared it 6 months ago...Last edited by allbaugh_04; 03-24-2009 at 10:34 AM.
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03-24-2009, 11:11 AM #2
Yes bank 1 sensor 1 is important. The rear two dont matter but the front two sensors are the ones that count. try clearing the code and see if it returns. Measure A/F on either side. I would check the harness to ensure a rat didnt get hungry. I would also run some injector cleaner through it and run that tank of gas out of it. Since its been sitting a while. I would also clean the maf and IAC motor to ensure everything is happy. May also have to go through the idle re-learn procedure..
J2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....
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03-24-2009, 02:21 PM #3
Code is cleared. I will try and see if it will come back...is it cheaper to get an o2 sensor online and are they any better?
Idle should be at 7-800rpms right...500 not normal?
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03-24-2009, 02:31 PM #4
625 ish is normal for stock internals at op temp. I would just pick up a 02 sensor from your local parts store.. Same quality and about the same price.
JLast edited by sunsetorangess; 03-24-2009 at 02:34 PM.
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03-25-2009, 10:57 AM #5
How about this:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...NP2344025.html
Do I need a 2 or 4-wire? I think 4-wire for the front, driver side o2. Also, should i just get the one without a connector, they are even cheaper. Like 35 bucks. I'd just have to cut off the existing connector and splice them together I guess.
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03-25-2009, 11:08 AM #6
Splicing is a bad idea when it comes to 02's, you will need the 4 wire connector. The only difference in the left and the right is the wire length...
J
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03-25-2009, 11:11 AM #7
Just to clear things up - An oxygen sensor WILL NOT cause your car to idle low or stall out when cold. When the engine is first started its in "open loop", which means feedback from the oxygen sensors is disregarded, because they do not even work until they are up to temperature. So you can rule that out as the cause of the cold start/idling issues.
However, if you have a code for bank 1 sensor 1, it still needs to be addressed, because the O2's directly affect your fuel trims once the car is warmed up.
Sounds like you have an issue with a sensor though, possibly your IAC valve or TPS. Its impossible to know though without hooking up a scan tool and seeing whats actually going on in the PCM.
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03-25-2009, 11:19 AM #8
I mentioned in the post it was warm, but thx for the info. That is great, i didn't know that.
I will just wait for the code to come back and when it does, i'll put one of these on order.
Thanks guys
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03-25-2009, 11:20 AM #9
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