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Thread: 5.0 dude thinkin of goin LS1
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09-22-2005, 08:54 AM #1NicDGuest
5.0 dude thinkin of goin LS1
I currently drive a moderately moded foxbody stang and admittedly didn't know much about cars about a year ago. After doing a lot of research during the last 12 months, i've learned the limitations of Fords 302 small block and the high cost of going to the 351. The newer stang seem to be even more limited than the older 5.0's...
Some time ago had a '90 Iroc 5.7L but modding it never crossed my mind.
I'm now thinking about investing in a '98 to '02 Z28, but the task of learning a new motor, what mods are most favorable, and all the terminology is a little daunting.
What could be done to an LS1 with a budget of about $3000? I've read about "lids" and other stuff but have no idea what it means.
I've been reading the site for a few days now but unfortunately, there don't seem to be any "for dummies" threads. Do the stock heads breath pretty well or would some AFR's be much better? Cam? Intake? Supercharger? The common consensus for Mustangs is heads, cam, and intake, and a supercharger...Does this apply for Camaros as well? I understand the motors differ in size, what are the other differences...
I apologize for such elementary questions, but all ideas and input are welcome...Fire away...
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09-22-2005, 09:17 AM #2
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Pewter- 2001 Camaro Z28 M6
your thought is in the right path, LSx(ls1, ls2, ls6, ls7) powered cars are amazing.
First off with your pick of years 98 to 02. Note that when buying the 01/02 Ls1 came with the LS6 intake manifold(good for about 15hp) and the Z06 clutch if you choose manual, along with improved clutch hydraulics. There is more changes between the 98-00 models and 01-02 models.
If you seach here and ls1tech you should find those difference.
2001 are sometimes regarded as the best of the ls1 f-bodys(camaro/transam)
With that being said yes, you could save money by purchasing a 98 as opposed to an 01, but the 01 and 02 models have factory upgrades that the 98 drivers are stuck buying for more performance.
If you buy an ls1 and have a budget of $3000.00 this is usually the best way to go:
LID,
flowthrough exhaust, magnaflow is know as one of the best, or buy an exhuast cutout
Headers
cam
heads
For HP, with the right setup listed above you can easily dyno about 440 REARwheel HP.
Not much can touch you on the street then.
Also remember anytime you mod, build from the ground up. If you going to add power, well you need the brakes and suspension to handle the power.
GM rotors suck so definitely get some dimpled but not drilled rotors and performance pads like Hawk brand. Drilled rotors are prone to cracking whereas dimpled work in the same theory and dont crack.
Suspension, definitely get lower control arms, and subframe connectors. Those are two mods that should be done first in the list. They prevent rattling, twist and wheel hop.
If you have more questions PM me, and I will answer.
I have an 2001 z28 m6, with:
exhaust cutout
lid
LCA
flowmaster exhaust
slp maf
bumpstop mod
fernco smooth bellow
ls6 heads
pro 5.0 shifter
and I run low 12s in the quarter. not bad at all!!!
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09-22-2005, 04:07 PM #3
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Great response. That pretty much covers it. Only thing to add would be a torque converter if you decide on an automatic. You really can get a lot from your $3,000.00. Some items are OK used, others are better new. So, be sure & post before buying used.
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09-22-2005, 04:34 PM #4
I like how he says the 01 is regarded as the best F-body-and then I look at what he's got-IT'S A 01!!Big shocker!-Seriously though-what he advises is true-I've got an 02 and it's the shit.Go for it-let us know when you get it.
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09-22-2005, 05:58 PM #5
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- Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch
Originally Posted by NicD
http://ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=966
The Small block Chevy's love the bolt ons and can take damn near as much as you can dish out.....I dish out quite alot
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09-22-2005, 06:44 PM #6Originally Posted by NicD
Pacesetter Headers: $400
2.5 Inch x-pipe exhaust around $500 no cats/650-700 with cats.
Air Lid(all it is is a different sir filter box that gives better flow) $90
Sub frame connectors(makes car more solid): $175
Lower Control Arms(Stop whel hop and allow traction): Around $200-250
Walbro Fuel pump(able to flow high amounts of fuel): Around 100-200
NX Wet kit 150 Shot nitrous kit: Around $500
Window Switch: $60
Bottle warmer: $175
Custom tune: $400
These mods will put you in the 11's in the 1/4 mile and around 500Hp. Save some money and learn how to do the installs yourself. None are too difficult to do. If you get an auto, get a torque converter, thats one of the best mods for autos.
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09-22-2005, 09:37 PM #7Originally Posted by 02z28ls1
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09-23-2005, 02:41 AM #8FlewbyurGTGuest
Ur not going to regret it buddy...my friend just last week traded his 03 GT in on an 01 WS-6...i kno its a 4.6 not 5.0....but he is all about sayin F a mustang now lol
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09-23-2005, 07:13 AM #9
You may have to think about a rear-end, if you get one with a stock one, if you want to mod it heavy.
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09-23-2005, 08:08 AM #10NicDGuest
Good stuff guys. Thanks big time. This motor has some serious potential I see...
So it looks like as far as air flow is concerned, the only real bottle neck is in the exhaust.
Tell me about the intake; other than the lid, does the intake have any bottlenecks? Is the LS6 intake manifold the standard?
And what about heads? Which are commonly recognized as the best flowing heads, and is the upgrade worth the cash in terms of power gained vs. stock?
Thanks again. This is getting me excited.
Oh and one more thing - how much horsepower can the engine block take? One of my major problems with the Ford production small block is the 2 bolt mains (GM standard is 4 bolt right?), it's only rated at about 400rwhp. How is the LS1 block rated?
Thanks again guys...
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09-25-2005, 09:32 AM #11Mark00T/AGuest
The factory f-body blocks are good for roughly 500hp. Much more than that it's usually recomended to go with an iron block LS1 (trucks have 'em).
BTW- Ls1's have 6 bolt mains.
Stock heads flow some pretty good numbers. Even better when they've been worked.
For $3k in mods. I'd get a lid, headers, catback or cutout and custom tune to start with.
If you get an A4 then definately get a good stall converter. These cars love 'em!
When I get the money together a stall will be my next mod. My last T/A had a 3200 stall with a 2.5 str. The thing was brutal from a holeshot. (if I could get the BFG drag radials to hook up)
So far in this T/A I have about $2400 in the mods. Including install fees. And as you can see by the sig... these things can dip into the 12's with minimal mods.
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