4.3 and 4l60e stand alone system

**littlecars** · 11-09-2009, 11:14 AM

(I delete a bunch of stuff out of this post becouse I found some answers to the question)
O.K. I have a lot of questions and I hope someone can help. Any help would be appricated:

I am biulding a Toyota pickup with a 4.3 v6 and I have wireing/tuning questions. I was refered to this site by the person I bought the motor from. He is going a ls1 swap into his s-10. I hope you guys can help.

Hears what I have:
1998 4.3l V6, SPI. 100% stock. Complete from the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold, but with non of the emisions that arnt bolted to the motor. ( dont want any of the emmsions stuff)
matching 4l60e with VSS, with toyota 23 spline output shaft.
the donor truck was a 2wd.
toyota 23 spline transfere case with 4.7 gears.
I live in a spot where emissions are not checked.

I plan on useing the stock wiring harness, pcm and possibly fuse box.

The ecu has 4 plugs, 3 go to the motor/tranny and one goes to the cab. the 3 to the motor/tranny are pretty simple. for the most part they dont need to be modified.

I am having trouble finding out what I need to hook up where on the cab side. is there anyone out there that can help? Has anyone else done this?

I have the pinout of the plug that goes to the cab:

1. fuel pump relay ( I plan on turning my fuel pump on with a switch so I don’t think I need this)
2.
3. vss output( I think this is for the CC)
4. vss output( for the chevy speedometer, which I am not using)
5. MIL control ( I think I hook this to the toyota check engion light)
6.
7.
8.
9.
10. brake signal(this is +12 volts when the breaks are applied)
11. serrial data( this is for the OBD2 scanner)
12.
13. Ignition+ voltage
14. serial data( communications to the body control modual) I dont want to use the BCM)
15.
16. EGR valve control( can I just snip this wire off and have the coded flashed out of the program?)
17. Ignition+ voltage
18. Ignition+ voltage
19. 4wd wheel lock input( the motor tranny was from a 2wd and I am putting it in a 4wd. I assume I put +12 volts when I 4wd)
20. EGR vavle low( can I just snip this wire off and have the coded flashed out of the program?)
21.
22. CPP switch signal( what is CPP?)
23. 4wd low signal( the motor tranny was from a 2wd and I am putting it in a 4wd. I assume I put +12 volts when I 4 low)
24. Cruise engaged signal. ( I dont hook this one up)

I am not using the cruise control.

Also how will the alternater work with the stock wiring harness? it looks pretty simple, just hook up the wiring harness and the big wire goes to the battery+.

I also was wondering If anyone has gotten rid of the BCM before? is it possible to do this?

Thanks
Brent

**Redphoenix1998** · 11-09-2009, 11:46 AM

I honestly don't know anyone that has done this conversion. But to help you with a few of your issues, the OBDII wiring should coincide with the factory chevy wiring if you want ot only diagnose the engine and Trans. The other pins are used mostly for other modules like abs. What chevy vehicle is this engine out of? Let me know I can pull a diagram for you if need be. As far as the VATS goes, most guys that do a conversion use a VATS bypass mod. Basically a resistor box. Look it up and you can pull some info about that.

**littlecars** · 11-09-2009, 12:15 PM

The engion/trans are out of a 1998 2wd s-10. I have the factory HELM manual for it with a more pages than I can count of wiring diagrams. I have been over them with a fine tooth comb. There is know information on the logic within the ecu. that is what I really need.

I have read a few writeups about people making the box for the 50khz signal generater to tell the ecu that the right key is in. I have also read about people hardwiring a resister to the body control modual. Both of these are options, but I am trying to avoid them. I dont want any extra stuff. I was hoping that somone knew exactly what hapened with the programming of the ecu when the vats signal was not getting to the ecu. I belive that with out the vats signal the ecu doesnt trigger the fuel pump. If thats the case I have no need for a vats signal. I am triggering the fuel pump in a different manner anywheys. but if the vats messes with the program in a different way than just the fuel pump, like the timing, or even throws a code. then I think I will have to look into getting the vats programmed out.

Thanks
Brent

**Redphoenix1998** · 11-09-2009, 12:21 PM

You are correct about the vats giving the wrong signal not triggering the fuel pump. I believe you can completely delete vats through a tuner but I'm not 100% positive on that.

**littlecars** · 11-09-2009, 12:30 PM

Im old school and dont know anything about tuning(unless its a carb). Is this something I can spend a few hundred dallors and buy the software and do the work myself? I have NEVER and I do mean NEVER had anybody work an any of my projects before. or is it a thing only a pro should do.

**littlecars** · 11-10-2009, 09:43 AM

O.K.

I have been doing some thinking and I think I will get the ecu reflashed to remove the VATS. while I am getting it flashed I think I will get them to remove the 3rd oxegen sencer, the one past the cat. converter. I dont want to run a cat. has anyone else done this before?

Is there anything else I should consider removing? like the EGR control? I would like to remove anything that I can without affecting drivability.

**Redphoenix1998** · 11-10-2009, 10:06 AM

Basically you can remove all smog emmissions using tuning. Look up HP Tuners if you want to do it yourself. But as you said, if you have little knowledge I'd take it to a reputable tuner in your area. You can learn HP Tuners on your own and in the end it will benefit you. Do you research on it though.

**littlecars** · 11-10-2009, 10:22 AM

I will do a ton of more research and think about whether I want to do it myself or not. I know I can learn it. that is not the issue. but Is it worth it to me? Ill have to figure that out.

I am thinking about giving up on figuring out the VATS. I dont think it is worth my time or effort to wire it up. I think Iwill remap it out. If I pay someone else to do it, Ithink I will have them get ride of the 3rd O2 senser also, and maybe the EGR controls.

Has anyone else done this? is there anything else I shoulb get removed?

Thanks for all your help, it is greatly appricated.

**Redphoenix1998** · 11-10-2009, 10:29 AM

All I have to say is, that's an interesting conversion

**littlecars** · 11-10-2009, 10:56 AM

I dont realy think It will be wortk it to learn it myself, but I hate to have somone else work on my stuff. . If I pay someone to do it can I just take my ECU to him? or do I need the entire truck?

**0rion** · 11-10-2009, 11:27 AM

go to hptuners website and read around in there....it's pretty powerful stuff and they do support the 98 4.3's. Are you planning on modifying the engine down the road or are you leaving it stock? If you modify it you will need some sort of tuner or you'll have to pay someone to do it. I *think* hptuners can't completely delete vats on the older vehicles but I could be wrong on that. Your other option is to bypass it like in this thread HERE which is extremely cheap and easy....you'll just need to find the correct wires and know the keys resistance. The rear O2 can be turned off along with any other emmisions stuff....if you delete the EGR you'll have to remove the EGR timing adder to avoid tip in knock retard.
If you tell them what you need done they will only need the pcm....Frost on here can probably do what you need and charges $125 for mail order stuff.

**littlecars** · 11-10-2009, 01:28 PM

Thanks,

for the info, I will have to PM frost and see what he has to say. The tranny lockup is designed to release when power is cut to a pin on ECU(from a switch on the brake pedal, I wonder if he can make it to where in unlocks when power is applied to the same pin, so I dont have to add another switch or relay, I can just wire it to my brake lights?

for now I am going to keep it mostly stock. I always run 92 octane. I will have to do the exhoust(stock manifolds, no cat, and a performance muffler) for the conversion. and I will probably use a K&N filter element. I dont know if I will do anything else down the road or not. It is a 4wd that is going to ba a daily driver do is doesnt need to be to wild, I dont want to break axels or anything.

The tranny I rebiult myself(I will never do that again)

. It has a shift kit (B&M) kevlar 2-4 band, high intencity clutches, a corvette servo and the beast sun shell.

**0rion** · 11-10-2009, 01:41 PM

I've seen where people put a lock up switch in there....someone on here was talking about it a while back but I'm not familiar with it. I do know you can program the converter to lock up by throttle % vs mph and control what gears the converter will lock with hptuners. I have mine set to lock in 4th gear only above 43 mph.

**littlecars** · 11-10-2009, 02:12 PM

Hmm, I wonder how that will all work out when I am in 4 low with my 4.7:1 transfere case? I think I would like it to lock up most of the time when I am driving slow off road? maybe not, I dont know?

Does anyone know how it is designed to work? what is it like set up stock? did tuning it make it work better?

**littlecars** · 11-12-2009, 11:03 AM

O.K. I made a few decisions and deleted some stuff out of the posting based on that, But I added a few more questions.

I spend about 6 hours reading around on HPtuners.com. There is a ton of great info there, Thanks for the recomendation to look at the site.

**Jarlaxle** · 11-12-2009, 01:24 PM

I'd consider giving Painless Wiring a call...I think they have a 4.3 Vortec harness that might save you LOTS of hassles.

**JaycenK** · 11-12-2009, 06:07 PM

Originally Posted by littlecars

Hmm, I wonder how that will all work out when I am in 4 low with my 4.7:1 transfere case? I think I would like it to lock up most of the time when I am driving slow off road? maybe not, I dont know?

Does anyone know how it is designed to work? what is it like set up stock? did tuning it make it work better?

I don't think 4x4's auto's in 4wheel low lock up the converter. When you select 4 low I think the pcm is told that you are in 4 low because it adjust the speedo and I think it keeps the converter from locking up. might want to check out a 4x4 forum. if anyone can give you the answers I sure someone there has done it.

**littlecars** · 11-13-2009, 09:05 AM

Interesting JaycenK, I bet your right.

I have joined eight foruns since I started this conversion. some 4x4, jeep, toyota, s-10, tunning, All different kinds. sofar this one has been more helpful than all the other combined. Thanks, everybody for your help sofar.

**littlecars** · 11-15-2009, 09:19 AM

I contacted frost and he said he doesnt have the software or hardware to support my system. is there anybody else anyone can think of that might be able to help?

**Jarlaxle** · 11-16-2009, 09:31 AM

I wonder is the ten-gajillion people on this forum every day might be a part of it being so informative?

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