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2000 LS1 with engine rattle???

This is a discussion on 2000 LS1 with engine rattle??? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Purchased a 2000 Z-28 LS1 auto. trans. , car came from Indiana, was involved in flood. Trans fluid is fine, ...

  1. #1
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    2000 LS1 with engine rattle???

    Purchased a 2000 Z-28 LS1 auto. trans. , car came from Indiana, was involved in flood. Trans fluid is fine, i have changed engine oil it was littel over full. Started car and it has a upper end knock, sounds like a lifter that won't prime. Had another guy say it had bent rod and piston was hitting head, don't really think that is case but it may be. Where should i start? Compression test, cylinder leak down test, pull valve covers check valve train, pull plugs and check for damaged plug? Car runs smooth don't miss but dont want to cause any engine damage. I was planning on installing different cam and maybe some heads. Need to find problem first. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

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    pewter
    2000 trans am

    Smile

    Is it only on start up? I run mobil 1 and get noise until engine warms up one time I didnt run synthetic and noise went away on start up. Also make sure running premium fuel.

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    Noise

    I had oil changed in it, ran some trans fluid through it to maybe free up lifter. Still has noise. It won't go away. Going to go and get it today and pull valve covers off and have a look see if i see anything.

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    pewter
    2000 trans am

    maybe pushrod bent

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    Ls1

    Going to tear into it tonight and will give a report of what i find. Sounds like coming from the LH side of engine.

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    I would go with the simplest thing first-pull the valve covers and inspect. If its running smooth I doubt it has a damaged plug but perhaps a new set is in order anyways. Did the car make this noise when you first bought it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by raybob View Post
    Going to tear into it tonight and will give a report of what i find. Sounds like coming from the LH side of engine.
    Does it skip, misfire, or have a vibration?

    A skip could indicate a bent push rod, or a collapsed lifter.

    A miss fire could be a bad plug, or injector due to carbon build up being released after getting water into the cylinder, and being lodged in top of the piston thus making it rattle.

    And a vibration would most likely indicate a bad piston or rod caused by hydro lock from water entering the combustion chamber.

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    does it go away after the car warms up or is it there all the time?

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    Noise

    It is there all the time, hae let car get up to temp but haven't ran it for long period. Back it in shop and started tearing down last night. Got LH side valve cover off and plugs pulled. Didn't find anything going to go back today and do the RH side. Will let you know.

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    black
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    run some lucas change the oil and put some Lucas in there. let it run for a while if it still does it pull the valve covers of and run it again if you still hear it pull the intake, valley cover and see if the push rod is not pushing up the lifter it might just be hitting it but not engaging it.

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    noise

    Took both valve covers off, took intake off, ran compression test. Everything looks good. All valve train working like if should.Only thing it may be a piston hitting head. Wanting to upgrade cam and heads so i am going to tear in alittle deaper when i get time. Wish me luck.

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    a piston won't hit the head....it will hit valves and destroy them. That's why I asked if it was doing it when the car warmed up. Piston slap is a common thing to have in the LS1's and won't hurt anything. It comes from the deep skirts and the fact everything is aluminum and when parts are cold and tolerances are loose it lets the piston rock on the pin and slap the cylinder walls creating "piston slap". I'm not saying that's what you have, you could have an issue for sure. I'm just saying that if it's piston slap it would be considered "normal". Piston slap is primarily when the car is warm and will go away after everything gets good and hot. If you're letting the car come up to temp and get nice and hot and it's still doing it then piston slap probably isn't your issue. It's definitely higher sounding in the valve train and not low in the block then? You checked pushrods to make sure none are bent? It very well could be a lifter not pumping up but not being there and hearing it there's no way I could tell you what it is.
    Last edited by 0rion; 06-16-2008 at 09:24 AM.

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    pewter
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    maybe bent connecting rods u can check clearance when heads are off.

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    I'm with you on this one. My 98 M6 Z28 used to tick like crazy. Some of you may have read my frustrated posts concerning this. It got so bad that the engine would miss and idle funny because one lifter on the driver side was not pumping up. I changed over to regular castrol 10w 30 and drove it back from GA. We did Seafoam and the whole nine yards. My friend said his engine builder swears by lucas oil. I drained off a quart of castrol and added a bottle of lucas. COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENGINE. NO more ticking at all. Even if oil p.s.i. drops below 40. Thats where it would do it. The oil would get hot, thin out and start ticking. That stuff is awesome.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kensz28 View Post
    I'm with you on this one. My 98 M6 Z28 used to tick like crazy. Some of you may have read my frustrated posts concerning this. It got so bad that the engine would miss and idle funny because one lifter on the driver side was not pumping up. I changed over to regular castrol 10w 30 and drove it back from GA. We did Seafoam and the whole nine yards. My friend said his engine builder swears by lucas oil. I drained off a quart of castrol and added a bottle of lucas. COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ENGINE. NO more ticking at all. Even if oil p.s.i. drops below 40. Thats where it would do it. The oil would get hot, thin out and start ticking. That stuff is awesome.
    Does Lucas oil make different kinds? What kind exactly did you use? I am gonna try some.

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    I ran the regular lucas oil treatment. for engine oil. and contrary to that video someone had posted of some retard making lucas "foam" up, after I got home last night I pulled the dipstick and it looked like regular motor oil, kinda gold in color. It is really amazing how it works.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kensz28 View Post
    I ran the regular lucas oil treatment. for engine oil. and contrary to that video someone had posted of some retard making lucas "foam" up, after I got home last night I pulled the dipstick and it looked like regular motor oil, kinda gold in color. It is really amazing how it works.
    Thanks- I have been using slick 50 every oil change but will prolly give the lucas a try next time. Anytime I pull my stick the oil looks like honey almost-I never let it go long enough to get dirty. I dont drive the car much and after 5 months (even with way under 3,000 miles) I change it and the filter.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LETHALxLS1 View Post
    Thanks- I have been using slick 50 every oil change but will prolly give the lucas a try next time. Anytime I pull my stick the oil looks like honey almost-I never let it go long enough to get dirty. I dont drive the car much and after 5 months (even with way under 3,000 miles) I change it and the filter.
    It really is good stuff. I could only drive 15-20 minutes before the engine would tick. Now with the Lucas, I drive it anywhere for any amount of time and no problem. (it still has the usual piston slap at start-up)I drove to Little Rock and back today to go fishing and that is about 60 miles round trip. It even idles better and oil pressure is better. Someone also on this site recommended removing the weather strip that is at the back of the hood/firewall area in summer months. I don't know if it's me, but my 95, .030 over, aluminum headed, hooker header equipped LT1 Buick Roadmaster runs cooler and a/c cools better since I removed mine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kensz28 View Post
    It really is good stuff. I could only drive 15-20 minutes before the engine would tick. Now with the Lucas, I drive it anywhere for any amount of time and no problem. (it still has the usual piston slap at start-up)I drove to Little Rock and back today to go fishing and that is about 60 miles round trip. It even idles better and oil pressure is better. Someone also on this site recommended removing the weather strip that is at the back of the hood/firewall area in summer months. I don't know if it's me, but my 95, .030 over, aluminum headed, hooker header equipped LT1 Buick Roadmaster runs cooler and a/c cools better since I removed mine.
    I hear ya man. My car runs very cool and has a 160 degreee thermostat-so no issues there. I was so pissed last year I took my car in to get a new ac delco/delphi compressor put on because the noise from the bearings was driving me insane. The cars ac was freezing and I should have just dealt with the noise til the compressor died. After getting the new compressor on the fkin car wouldnt even cool. The dude tried to tell me my car had some other issue blah blah-I said "dude the motherfucker cooled fine before you fked with it" and had to argue until he took the new compressor back off and installed a different new one. Still the MF wasnt cooling right. I dont think he put a new filter inside the canister(I cant think of the proper name). Luckily it started cooling excellent on its own a week later.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LETHALxLS1 View Post
    I hear ya man. My car runs very cool and has a 160 degreee thermostat-so no issues there. I was so pissed last year I took my car in to get a new ac delco/delphi compressor put on because the noise from the bearings was driving me insane. The cars ac was freezing and I should have just dealt with the noise til the compressor died. After getting the new compressor on the fkin car wouldnt even cool. The dude tried to tell me my car had some other issue blah blah-I said "dude the motherfucker cooled fine before you fked with it" and had to argue until he took the new compressor back off and installed a different new one. Still the MF wasnt cooling right. I dont think he put a new filter inside the canister(I cant think of the proper name). Luckily it started cooling excellent on its own a week later.
    Anytime you open up the A/C system and replace a compressor you should change the orifice tube and dryer. If it was bearing noise then your probably o.k. Glad it cools now. Mine has a slow leak that every few months it will just blow lukewarm air and today I put more 134a in and added red dye to find the leak. I'm guessing it is the compressor o-rings. My oem compressor was so cold you could hang meat in that buick. But it croaked after 85,000mi. The new one is an eBay one. It does alright but not like oem stuff. The camaro has no a/c cuz some artard ripped the wires of the compressor when they pulled the motor or something. I think it's from a busted motor mount in the past that let the motor torque over so far it ripped em out. All I have is two bare wire studs sicking up from behind the pulley. The are shaped like a posi traction burnout (they curl to one side)

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