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2000 Grand Prix brake lights

This is a discussion on 2000 Grand Prix brake lights within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have gotten fixed up here a bunch of times before with trouble's the wife's 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix has ...

  1. #1
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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    2000 Grand Prix brake lights

    I have gotten fixed up here a bunch of times before with trouble's the wife's 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix has had...so back again!

    Thanks again for all the previous help and advice too.
    Things been going good with the car, except brake lights. The 3rd brake lamp in the back window works, but not each tail light. Checking obvious stuff like fuses and bulbs, everything looks good so far. Traced the wires to the rear of the back seat, doesn't look like anything is getting to them. Just wondering if anyone knows how the 3rd works but other 2 don't??? Wiring diagrams??

    Thanks!!!!

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
    2001 Silverado Z71

    most likely its the turn signal switch. The 3rd brake doesn't go through the TS switch like the other 2 brake lights

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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    My first instinct is

    OH NO

    Whats involved with this?
    Is it as bad as I am guesiing?
    Thanks !!

  4. #4
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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    NOT SO BAD at all...
    BIG Thanks for the turn signal clue.
    Wasn't the switch BUT....

    While I was spraying contact cleaner into the TS switch, I started messing with HaZaRd switch...it was stuck sorta half in and out. Wife thinks it was the techs at the dealer tilting the wheel when they did 4 wheel alignment yesterday. They did tell her about it and offered to diagnose it for her.

    However the switch got 1/2 pressed, I am just glad it was such an easy fix.
    I would have still been laying upside down in the trunk w/o your tip.

    BIG BIG THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    glad I could help!!

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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    Me too
    The wife also
    We can take the car on our trip to Detroit today to see the Red Wings! Yeh!

    Now all I gotta do is chase down the intermitten demon shutting down the stereo in my 1998 Expedition
    I'll be hitting up the Ford guys on Ford-trucks.com for that one too.

    AGAIN, much appreciate the help!!

  7. #7
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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    Back again...
    Starting to wonder exactly how our local dealer goes about doing a 4 wheel alignment...?
    Drove to Detroit yesterday in the Grand Prix. Beautiful day, almost 80 degrees and sunny the whole way. Not the kind of day you need the heater on it the car at all. BUT...since the car has been back from getting its alignment....drivers side heat cannot be turned off. Car has the dual zone climate controls. No matter what settings are, HOT, COLD, FLOOR, VENTS, DEFROST, etc etc the drivers side is getting hot air to the floor. I was sweating for half of our ride yesterday. The passenger's side seems to behave as it should. I am guessing there's a vaccuum operated flapper door somewhere's not doing its job...? Looking under the hood I did not find any obvious unhooked vac. lines or hoses...Anyplace I might start? THANKS once again!!!!!!!!!

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    There is a right and left temp actuator. they are both electric. sounds like the left one is bad.

  9. #9
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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    I will start looking into that. The wife sent link to NAPA that showed an actuator motor. Looked electric with a 5 or 6 pin plug. A couple other sites showed vaccuum canister looking schematics. Thinking those are outdated probably. $50 for the NAPA $17 for the canister. She also found a step by step illustration how to. Looked like some plastic trim mounted around the acellerator (insert Toyota remarks here) and the "heater box". With auctator behind those.

    Sounds like a good starting place for me. AGAIN MUCH APPRECIATED!!!!!!



    Since I am here....
    NExt project on this car is probably going to be another electrical gremlin. The station indicator lamps, clock, readout on her stereo CD player have been out a while. I know there is a theft deterent system, anything to do, not do when screwing with the stereo? I thought I looked into this once before when it first went out and was told it was a bulb behind the lcd area...Sound corect at all?

    THANKS!!!

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Yes there is a bulb. I had to replace it in my wife's Grand Prix radio. I think the bulb cost me $15, maybe more.

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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    Pretty easy fix?
    Anything special with the theft stuff?

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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    WOW
    Tried getting at that actuator yesterday...My big fears realized. THAT THING IS BURIED UP IN THERE!!!!
    If I screw with the heat/ac modes (defrost, floor, vent panels...)I see the vacuum canister doing its job and moving stuff like I would expect. But the temp actuator, just like suggested does nothing no matter what I set temp at, min or max. I assume that the splined aluminum drive area should be rotating but just sits. DARN IT!
    I tore off as much dash as I dared but still looks just barely accessible enough to see, let alone get screws in and out of Does taking more of the dash or console out help? I have the face of the stereo with burned bulb also, again. Looks like some of the same trim and stuff might be removed for both fixes. Any truth to that? Any place for manuals or directions to let me know what is best removed, what I am better leaving alone???
    AGAIN THANKS trying to minimize this job as much as possible. Hate to break a trim piece or destroy something if I don't even need to touch it. I guess a map showing most direct route to this thing is what I really need. THANKS!!!!!

  13. #13
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rschap1 View Post
    I assume that the splined aluminum drive area should be rotating but just sits. YES

    I tore off as much dash as I dared but still looks just barely accessible enough to see, let alone get screws in and out of Does taking more of the dash or console out help?
    Remove 3 panels to access the temp actuator. Remove the panel above the gas/brake pedals, the the panel below the steering column, and the large metal bracket underneath the panel you just removed
    Answers in bold

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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    Thanks again!
    That does sound ALOT like what I have done, and where I been so far. Was hoping that there was an easier way. I just ain't flexible enough to enjoy behind that far under the dash. There is also a LARGE wiring connector that really blocks access. I may try and get that moved too.

    As far as the radio...does the large dash piece that runs all the way around the gauges need to come off as it appears ?

    THANKS AGAIN!!

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rschap1 View Post

    As far as the radio...does the large dash piece that runs all the way around the gauges need to come off as it appears ?
    yes, if I remember correctly it just snaps out and in.

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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    Again, that is what I thought, but I feel LOTS better with support. THANKS
    Going to send the wife to NAPA or Autozone soon to p/u the actuator. I'll start stretching today and get ready.

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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    Wondered about a part # for the CD player display's bulb...?
    Anyone got that?
    Sounds like it fails for LOTS of folks

  18. #18
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    When I had to get mine, the dealership parts department had to call the GM authorized radio repair center in Chicago and have them send a bulb over. I don't believe there is a GM part number.

  19. #19
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    metallic burgandy
    '00Pont Grand PrixGT

    Well I stood on my head and got the old actuator out.
    Looks like a small resistor inside burned up.
    I had read ALOT of stuff where the plastic gears broke and caused these to fail. Mine was not like that.
    Thought about replacing just the resistor until I spoke with a knowledgable electrician here at work. He said something else probably caused this to burn up.
    If it were easier to get at, I might cheap out, but think I will get one of these ordered up.
    AGAIN THANKS!!! for all the guidance and advice.
    I got pics of the inside and thought I'd share but not sure how here, and don't think anyone would benefit a whole bunch either...
    THANKS!!

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