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1998 ls1

This is a discussion on 1998 ls1 within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; im kinda new to the fourms so if someone already asked this im sorry. but does anyone know a few ...

  1. #1
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    silver/black strip
    1998 Z-28 Camaro

    1998 ls1

    im kinda new to the fourms so if someone already asked this im sorry. but does anyone know a few tricks that i can do to get the most power i can from doing work and not spending money. and if im forced to spend money where is the best place to start spending it.

  2. #2
    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    Arctic White
    2000 Camaro Z28

    Welcome to LS1.com!

    Here is a thread that was shared with me when I first joined the site. You may find it helpful

    Basic Bolt On's list and some explanations

    Have fun

  3. #3
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    hugger orange
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    Is your car a manual or automatic?

    If you do a search for "ls1 free mods" you should find it pretty easy, there are about 10 free mods of I remember right. I think Install University has some good writeups.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I have a 98 T/A in my sign is what I've done so far in the yr that I've bought it.

    WARNING - Once you start modding you will get hooked and it will lead you to more modding. It becomes an addiction.

    I'd recommend start with the free mods, then a air lid if you don't have one, diffently recommend SFC's and after you get LT headers get a tune.

    My mods below
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403 built, breaking it in , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, Monster Stg 4 Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, UMI: SFC, PHB, LCA's, LCA Relocation Brackets & TA, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/4.10 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  5. #5
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    Black
    99 WS.6 - Modified

    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    WARNING - Once you start modding you will get hooked and it will lead you to more modding. It becomes an addiction.
    +1!
    It's not how fast you can go. It's how fast you can get there.

    Follow us at www.facebook.com/RGCustoms

  6. #6
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    He lives in Cali. There's a limit as to what he can do (legally)...

  7. #7
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    silver/black strip
    1998 Z-28 Camaro

    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    Is your car a manual or automatic?
    its an automatic

  8. #8
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    On your ass flashing
    my highbeams

    If you intend to 1/4 mile it a stall, and since our converters lock up you can get away w/ a 3600/4000 no problem.

  9. #9
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    If you intend to 1/4 mile it a stall, and since our converters lock up you can get away w/ a 3600/4000 no problem.
    I daily drive mine with a 3,800 stall with no problem.
    A stall would be my 1st mod

  10. #10
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    silver/black strip
    1998 Z-28 Camaro

    What does the stall converter do and what does 3800 mean

  11. #11
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Torque vs Stall Converters:

    A torque converter is the direct connection between the engine and transmission. It works much the same way that a stall converter works, but to understand a stall converter, you must first understand how a torque converter works. The torque converter is attached to the flexplate by three bolts and the transmission input shaft slides into the torque converter. It meshes into the converter by a set of splines on the male end of the input shaft and into a hole with splines in the torque converter.

    The torque converter has four major components. The first component is the impeller or pump, which is directly attached to the converter. The pump is turning continuously. This produces the hydraulic pressure. The turbine is the next component and is not attached to the converter. It is free floating and attached only to the splined input shaft from the transmission. Its purpose is to supply the torque to move the vehicle. The next is the one way clutch that locks up the converter to the input shaft. The last component is the stator. The stator is designed to multiply the torque or pressure and reduce the speed of the impeller.



    The best way to explain the operation is to imagine having two fans facing each other. Turn on just one fan and soon the second fan will begin to spin. If the second fan is held from moving, the first fan that is turned on will of course continue to spin. This is how a car can come to a stop and not stall the engine. Now add a stator in between the two fans. Turn the working fan down to low. The driven fan or the one that is not turned on will have much more pressure although it can still be held. This is similar to an idle or the car sitting still.

    Turn the working fan on high, which is similar to stepping on the gas. The driven fan comes to life and can no longer be held. This is basic, but it best explains the way the converter works. The rpm that the torque converter begins to apply torque is dependent on the curvature and type of blades used on the stator and impeller. The normal efficiency of the torque converter is 90 percent of engine speed, hence the lock up clutch. The other 10 percent allows the engine a little flash time for accelerating without lugging the engine. For fuel economy, the lock up will only occur electronically at a cruise or 50 miles per hour and up to a point where no further torque is required. This makes 100 percent 1:1 ratio that lowers the engine rpm and saves fuel.

    A stall converter does what a torque converter does, but has a modified stator that requires a higher than normal rpm before it locks up. Lock up is determined by the amount of rpm the engine can achieve with the brakes on. Stall converters can be purchased with a wide range of stall from 1200 rpm to 6000 rpm. Ideally for the best launch or acceleration, the stall should be 80 percent of the rpm necessary for maximum torque. Stall converters are generally used in racing applications or towing applications, but it is not unheard of for a high horsepower street vehicle to be equipped with a stall converter instead of a torque converter.

    The number represents the number of rpms need for the converter to release.

  12. #12
    Member JRENIGAR's Avatar
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    99 camaro

    ^^^ damn good explanation there good sir. I actually understood that one and it was helpful to me.

  13. #13
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JRENIGAR View Post
    ^^^ damn good explanation there good sir. I actually understood that one and it was helpful to me.
    One of the best I've seen....its amazing how hard it really is to discribe lol

  14. #14
    Exalted Cyclops 67CamaroRSSS's Avatar
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    2002 Z28 A4 NBM
    Sadly now demodded :(

    I like the 2 fans analogy. Dead on for an accurate description of how it works. Just substitute hydraulic fluid for the air.

  15. #15
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    Google can be a friend......

    I won't claim credit for the explanation. I knew what they were but putting it into words is something else.

    I felt this had the best explanation that made it simple for me to understand.

  16. #16
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    silver/black strip
    1998 Z-28 Camaro

    my car is a daily driver so a 3800 stall converter would be a good first purchase? better then headers and exhaust?

  17. #17
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Could be, car will certainly out pull a car w/ headers from a dig. If you race from a roll it might be a different story.

  18. #18
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chadler View Post
    my car is a daily driver so a 3800 stall converter would be a good first purchase? better then headers and exhaust?
    if I were to start again, the stall would be my first mod

  19. #19
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    For you yes a stall converter. But since you are in Cali I won't recommend the usual = LT Headers, delete Cats and rear O2's. Ask some of the Cali members what will pass in your state. Another recommendation would be SFC's cheap and our cars need them.

  20. #20
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    For you yes a stall converter. But since you are in Cali I won't recommend the usual = LT Headers, delete Cats and rear O2's. Ask some of the Cali members what will pass in your state. Another recommendation would be SFC's cheap and our cars need them.
    Just about nothing in the average persons budget for moderate gains. The amount of "illegal" cars far surpasses the smog compliant ones.

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