Results 1 to 11 of 11

1998 Camaro Z/28 Ls1 Overheating

This is a discussion on 1998 Camaro Z/28 Ls1 Overheating within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    San Jose, Ca.
    Age
    40
    Posts
    6

    red
    98 camaro z/28

    Question 1998 Camaro Z/28 Ls1 Overheating

    I have a 1998 Z/28 with alot of bolt ons, see list below. About a month ago the PCM started throwing out P017 & P0174, Fuel Trim Lean Bank 1 & 2. I checked for vacuum leaks with carb spray, in common leak areas, replaced O2's, replaced PCV Valve. I cleared the code and all was good untill I would get on it. The SES light would come on. I disconnected the battery and reset the PCM, and the light hasn't come back on. Then about a week ago, I opened her up on the freeway, like 140MPH. As I started slowing dow, I noticed the temp gauge rising. Just before red zone, I pulled over and let her cool down. any way I got her home, and she has 125,000 miles, so I thought it's gotta be either water pump, or thermostat. I went with the Meziere Electric pump, and new therm. I figured it was all good. Took her out, and she overheated, and blew the radiator. Pump is working great, therm is brand new,and everything is installed correctly. I replaced the radiator with a Be Cool and thought, no more problems. Sure enough, she still gets way too hot. The only other thing I can think of is that the LS1 is still running lean, (with no codes?), possibly clogged cat and/or cat's.
    I ordered new cat's but what do you all think.With all the airflow coming in, it makes sense that it is running lean, but I just don't know. I would appreciate any help, for I am out of Ideals. Oh yeah I also just order a Ractronix fuel pump, but I have hooked a fuel pressure gauge up to the fuel rails and I've got good 60 PSI witch drops a little (58 PSI) under load. Could this also be a bad regulator???

    1998 Camaro Z/28 Mods.
    1. SLP Air Lid
    2. SLP MAF Sensor
    3. SLP Air Bellow
    4. SLP TCM ASR Reversal Module
    5. SLP Fan Over Ride Switch/Harness
    6. SLP Hurst Shifter Ball
    7. SLP Cold Air Induction (Not Installed)
    8. SLP Strut Tower Brace
    9. F.A.S.T. 78mm Billet Throttle Body
    10. EGR Tube Cut
    11. ASR Underdrive Pulley set with Alternator Pulley
    12. Meziere Electric Water Pump
    13. Be Cool Aluminum Radiator
    14. K&N Air Filter
    15. Flowmaster
    16. Mindon 160 degree Thermostat
    17. Racetronix Electric 255 lph Fuel Pump w/ separate 12v line (NOT YET)
    18. MSD Coil Packs
    19. MSD Wires
    20. NGK Iridium Plugs
    21. ZO6 Clutch
    22. Eibach Pro Springs
    23. Edelbrock Torque Arm
    24. Edelbrock Pannhard Bar
    25. Bilstein Shocks
    26. Superior Rear Axles
    27. 17 SS Grey Rims
    28. Skip Shift Eliminator

    Parts Replaced (125,000)
    1. Rear Axle Seals
    2. Rear Pinion Seal
    3. Clutch Slave Cylinder
    4. Rear Brake Pads (Carbon Fiber Composite)
    5. Oxygen Sensors (Bosch)
    6. PCV Valve
    7. Radiator Hoses
    8. GM Corvette LS1 Water Pump Gaskets

  2. #2
    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Roseville, CA
    Posts
    8,164

    05 Wrangler
    00 Z28 sold :-(

    Put the stock maf back in....do a good coolant flush. You might have some old dex clogging shit up...also check all hoses(upper, lower, heater) and make sure none are collapsed. I'm sure you know all this but make sure you bleed the air out really good.

  3. #3
    M6 King Hot Black Trans-Am's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    5,085
    Blog Entries
    1

    09 EclipseGT 75 Chevy 4x4
    2001 Trans-Am 13 F-XT

    I'm thinking cats. when it's getting hot pop the hood and check to see if the manifolds are glowing. (works best at night)

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    9

    Black
    1998 Camaro Z-28

    I have a '98 Z with 111,000 and just started having the same problem two days ago. Temp shot up to 265 and before that no problems at all. Both fans are working, flushed the radiator, but the temp is still shooitng up after 20 minutes of driving. Going into the shop tomorrow to replace the thermostat to start.

    I have minimal mods.

    MG

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    San Jose, Ca.
    Age
    40
    Posts
    6

    red
    98 camaro z/28

    Thanks for everyones input. Let me know if the thermostat helps. Thanks again, and if anyone else can help, please do.

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    San Jose, Ca.
    Age
    40
    Posts
    6

    red
    98 camaro z/28

    Are you kidding me? Bad radiator cap. This shit has been plagueing me. Thanks for all the help guy's.

  7. #7
    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Bragg NC
    Posts
    2,835

    Met. Sunset Orange
    01 SS

    Glad you figured it out....
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    2,725
    Bad radiator cap won't hold pressure for sure - it's not overheating now after replacing it?

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    San Jose, Ca.
    Age
    40
    Posts
    6

    red
    98 camaro z/28

    No overheating. Apparently when the coolant expanded, it couln't excape into the overflow bottle because the cap prevented it from doing so. In turn super pressurizing the water, i guess causing it to boil. Cap spring was stuck down.

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    texas
    Posts
    96

    red
    1998 chevy camaro ss

    i recently replaced my water pump and tstat and that solved my cooling problems but now i have a lopey idle at a stop light. sounds like it will cut off but doesn't. codes say bank 1 and 2 lean. maybe i need new o2 sensors but what r the chances of both going out at the same time. what could have caused this? would o2 simulators work instead of replacing the o2s if they are bad? can' t figure it out. please help.

  11. #11
    Impounded
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Pa
    Posts
    276

    Red
    99 TA

    Quote Originally Posted by rolyan76 View Post
    No overheating. Apparently when the coolant expanded, it couln't excape into the overflow bottle because the cap prevented it from doing so. In turn super pressurizing the water, i guess causing it to boil. Cap spring was stuck down.
    sorry but its just the opposite,the higher the pressure the higher the boiling point.a bad cap lets the pressure excape causing the coolant in the rad and engine to boil.boiling coolant is useless so the engine overheats.replacing the cap helped because now its holding full pressure on the system.if the cap was "stuck" so it couldn't open at all it would blow a hose off etc.signs of a bad cap are overheating under a heavy load where otherwise the temp seems normal.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •