12 volt power No crank no start

**zmg00camaross** · 04-12-2010, 09:08 AM

As the title says. All accesorys come on lights, Radio, ect, Just need some advice to where to start, like a flow chart.

**cammed goat** · 04-12-2010, 09:11 AM

Did you check your starter relay? Also, do the lights cut out when you turn the key to "run"?

Also, what trans are you running? M6? A4? Have you checked your neutral safety switch?

**0rion** · 04-12-2010, 11:17 AM

when you turn the key to run can you hear the fuel pump prime? What happens when you turn the key to start? Anything? Security light on the gauges stay on solid or flash?

**zmg00camaross** · 04-13-2010, 12:45 AM

Originally Posted by cammed goat

Did you check your starter relay? Also, do the lights cut out when you turn the key to "run"?

Also, what trans are you running? M6? A4? Have you checked your neutral safety switch?

M6 trans relay checked good, and also checked my clutch switch, since i installed my 2 step to the switch about 2 months ago i checked that right away and seems to be working correctly.

**zmg00camaross** · 04-13-2010, 12:48 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

when you turn the key to run can you hear the fuel pump prime? What happens when you turn the key to start? Anything? Security light on the gauges stay on solid or flash?

You can hear the fuel pump, and when you turn the key all the lights on the dash go off until i let of the key then come back on. Almost sounds like a bad connection. Dont know about the security lights.

**0rion** · 04-13-2010, 03:21 AM

Originally Posted by zmg00camaross

You can hear the fuel pump, and when you turn the key all the lights on the dash go off until i let of the key then come back on. Almost sounds like a bad connection. Dont know about the security lights.

I agree.....I would start by checking all the battery/starter/alternator connections for tightness and corrosion.

**Smittro** · 04-13-2010, 03:33 AM

1. Have battery load tested.
2. Alt. tested
3. Make sure it's not a VATS issue.
4. Maybe a neutral safety switch issue.
5. Have starter tested.
6. Maybe an ignition switch issue.

**zmg00camaross** · 04-13-2010, 08:55 AM

Someone explain the VATS, going to start looking at it tommorow morning work evenings and sleep all day, hard to work on something then lucky its not my daily driver.

**0rion** · 04-13-2010, 09:05 AM

vats thread
http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61262

**blackcar** · 04-13-2010, 09:09 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

1. Have battery load tested.
2. Alt. tested
3. Make sure it's not a VATS issue.
4. Maybe a neutral safety switch issue.
5. Have starter tested.
6. Maybe an ignition switch issue.

This. Had the same issue. Everything would work, but the batt wasn't strong enough to turn the car over. Wouldn't even get a "click" when I tried to start it. Most parts houses well check it for free. BTW the cheap batts at O'Rielly's suck.

**zmg00camaross** · 04-13-2010, 11:52 PM

I mite have to do the vats just because, i remove the battery and load test it.

**zmg00camaross** · 04-18-2010, 09:11 PM

well checked battery load tested bad, put know good battery out of my truck, still no start, checked at starter found 12v and checked at the solenoid with key in crank position and had 12 volts sounds like a starter, I checked it off the block dont know if it grounded someway when bolted to the block.

**tatertot91** · 04-18-2010, 09:15 PM

Originally Posted by zmg00camaross

well checked battery load tested bad, put know good battery out of my truck, still no start, checked at starter found 12v and checked at the solenoid with key in crank position and had 12 volts sounds like a starter, I checked it off the block dont know if it grounded someway when bolted to the block.

Did you charge it before you put a load tester on it?
Starter should be case grounded

**zmg00camaross** · 04-18-2010, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by tatertot91

Did you charge it before you put a load tester on it?
Starter should be case grounded

No just load tested thats why i dont think its the battery, car wasnt started in about 1 1/2 weeks so probly just low charge it wont even click the starter, Well with the starter on the ground unbolted but wires hooked up, the solenoid had power with key in cranking position, Bad starter

**tatertot91** · 04-18-2010, 09:31 PM

Originally Posted by zmg00camaross

No just load tested thats why i dont think its the battery, car wasnt started in about 1 1/2 weeks so probly just low charge it wont even click the starter, Well with the starter on the ground unbolted but wires hooked up, the solenoid had power with key in cranking position, Bad starter

think it would have to be grounded for it to work

**zmg00camaross** · 04-18-2010, 09:38 PM

well if its case grounded then no worrys i would imagine, all the wires where hooked up. but if it needs to be bolted to the block to get a ground then i would go throw it on there and recheck.

**tatertot91** · 04-18-2010, 09:42 PM

Originally Posted by zmg00camaross

well if its case grounded then no worrys i would imagine, all the wires where hooked up. but if it needs to be bolted to the block to get a ground then i would go throw it on there and recheck.

Just run a cable to it off the car for ground

**zmg00camaross** · 04-18-2010, 09:51 PM

will see tomorrow, cant remember if there is a ground strap on the starter or block somewhere, Thanks tatertot91.

**tatertot91** · 04-18-2010, 09:53 PM

no problem, hope you get her fixed up soon

**zmg00camaross** · 04-26-2010, 08:52 AM

All right got to work on it Friday, found the problem, The car was playing games, rechecked grounds and starter, all tested good besides the starter, remove took to part store so they could check it and the damn thing worked fine for them, So a little pissed, so rechecked a bunch if little crap, all was good, reinstalled starter and tried to start and it started like nothing was wrong, guess it has a bad spot in the starter and does need a new one. I knew it was the starter i not a idiot when i tested and it didnt work. So all is good at the moment. Thanks for your guys input.