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100k

This is a discussion on 100k within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Damn now in just thinkin I just do bolt obs then leave it until I get another block...

  1. #21
    Member Darkrider02's Avatar
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    Damn now in just thinkin I just do bolt obs then leave it until I get another block

  2. #22
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkrider02 View Post
    Damn now in just thinkin I just do bolt obs then leave it until I get another block
    that mod bug can be a bugger..
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  3. #23
    Junior Member Jager686's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Yeah.. 100k is a 100k no matter how you slice it that is high mileage..
    bah.. mine has 172k and still sounds good after a tune up lol

  4. #24
    Member JRENIGAR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jager686 View Post
    bah.. mine has 172k and still sounds good after a tune up lol
    Agreed, mine has 160k on it and usually sees 6000rpm daily. Id put heads and cam on it in a minute if the wallet would let me. Op, Id do a comp check and if all cyl are verry close 1-3 psi then it should be good to go, just keep the factory rev limit and that should help keep it alive longer.

  5. #25
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    I have 85k or so with all the bolt ons and plan to do a stall and a cam. I would do heads but that is a little outta my budget. I have a lot of friends with cars over 100k with bolt ons and cams. Some have heads on them. I don't know if I would spray a car you use as a dd without forged internals. But bolt ons and a good tune with be fine on a dd since your bot changing anything internally just adding a little hp. I can't see any reason not to do a cam kit as long as you do the supporting mods like a timing chain and oil pump upgrade but you will lose some mpgs if that matters to you or not.
    1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
    Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
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  6. #26
    Member Darkrider02's Avatar
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    Ok thanks to every1 who replied I believe im doin a compression check and if everything is good then ill do ai planned with no spray and just build a 427 built for boost

  7. #27
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkrider02 View Post
    so just heads cam and full bolt ons is good? no spray.....
    At 100k, I would do this without an ounce of fear. Even on a DD. But you have to choice your setup wisely for a DD. Small cam and well matched heads. Bolts ons are bolt ons, you can't screw that up too much

  8. #28
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    00 camaro ss M6 #6695

    mine has 122k and im afraid to go for bolts on, cam and heads....
    00 ss blk m6 " STOCK" strano springs, slp bilstein shocks, adj LCA, adj panhard bar, relocation brackets, 2 point SFCs welded,OEM zo6 rims black, magnaflow exhaust, CME exhaust,E/cutout, slp grille, custom front plate mount, HIDs, whistler mod, side moldings delete, slp air lid, ported and polished TB, strut tower brace, 3.73s gears, and some other parts to list!
    next to come,4.10s,ls7 clutch, ms3 or 228r cam, ported 243s, ls6 intake, ls6 oil pump. ls2 timing chain, longtube headers no cats, with a tune..
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  9. #29
    Member Darkrider02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98maro View Post
    mine has 122k and im afraid to go for bolts on, cam and heads....
    Yea I feel you man just don't wanna do anything to ruin the motor cuz funds is low and not alot people have money to just spend money like that on building another motor

  10. #30
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    00 camaro ss M6 #6695

    I knw bro. It's hard.
    I went to many shops askin how much would be to rebuild the motor.
    It's like almost 4000 just as stock ls1
    I said damn I hope it don't get messed up some time soon lol

  11. #31
    Auto Painter RyanJM's Avatar
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    I'm just building a new LS1 but completely forged and swapping over whatever cam I use for now and any heads I may buy but it's going to be built for.a decent dd and cruiser but with a progressive 250 or 300 shot for the track and a few friends with Vette's that have big ego's with there C6 Z06's. I want a nice secret build.

  12. #32
    Member Darkrider02's Avatar
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    Man im thinkin I still mod this engine then build a forged 383 built for boost

  13. #33
    Member JRENIGAR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkrider02 View Post
    Ok thanks to every1 who replied I believe im doin a compression check and if everything is good then ill do ai planned with no spray and just build a 427 built for boost
    Just for reference, mine with 160k on it had 130-132psi and the manual says anything over 100psi is acceptable.

  14. #34
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    The desiding factor for me is when I pull a set of heads and examine cylinder walls.. I would never mod an engine with wear ridges in the cyl. walls.. I also look for remaining crosshatching.. If there's non left, I would'nt mod it.. But that's how I go about it everyone is different... In the end you'll have to deside wheather it's all worth it or not.. Everyone has a different perception of worn and high mileage.. I usually only try to look @ it from a mechanical stand point of a gasoline engine.. Though @ 100-150-200k it may run strong and great.. In the end it's a motor with high mileage being asked to do more on old parts... just my .02

  15. #35
    Senior Member 1MileCrash's Avatar
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    if it's a daily driver i wouldn't put nitrous on it.

    upgrade heads, cam, intake, injectors, and exhaust while going through and replacing the bearings on the bottome end of the engine and call it good. if it's a manual trans do a clutch on it and maybe synchros if they're gettin bad and if it's an auto trans at least start thinking about a rebuild in the near future if not rebuilding it right away.

  16. #36
    Senior Member 1MileCrash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    The desiding factor for me is when I pull a set of heads and examine cylinder walls.. I would never mod an engine with wear ridges in the cyl. walls.. I also look for remaining crosshatching.. If there's non left, I would'nt mod it.. But that's how I go about it everyone is different... In the end you'll have to deside wheather it's all worth it or not.. Everyone has a different perception of worn and high mileage.. I usually only try to look @ it from a mechanical stand point of a gasoline engine.. Though @ 100-150-200k it may run strong and great.. In the end it's a motor with high mileage being asked to do more on old parts... just my .02
    +1. if the car had say 40k on it then go for whatever you want on it. if you take it down and see cylinder wall wear, cylinder out of true round, ridging, no crosshatching, wear to the crank bearings, etc, etc then you need to do a rebuild on the engine before you start putting go-fast goodies on it. an older engine that would have last for another 60k without mods will wear out considerably faster and then you'll be doing a rebuild not only on your old block but also on your new heads as well. it' better to hit everything fresh.

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