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10 LBS of oil pressure, what did I break?

This is a discussion on 10 LBS of oil pressure, what did I break? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; If you have to do it all over again I would go BIG....

  1. #21
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    If you have to do it all over again I would go BIG.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

  2. #22
    Member excrider121's Avatar
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    Dark Steel Metalic
    98 T/A

    I think that's what I'm going to do. I just need to do some more research on what the LQ4 can handle. From what I've read, the 408 would be the biggest if I ever wanted to put any power adders on it, but if not, then the 427 is the biggest? I just don't know yet, I've only done a few hours of looking. I am surprised to find that stroking a LQ4 is cheaper than just getting a forged rotating assmy for the LS1 tho...

  3. #23
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Not to mention it can handle much more boost then aluminum blocks.

  4. #24
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    It would appear to me that your low oil pressure didn't kill it, but that it was eating itself the instant you started it, likely due to assembly mistake, improper clearance etc.. With all that trash passing through the engine the entire thing will need stripped and run through the washer to clean all oil passages and go from there.

    Personally I'd just start fresh with an iron LQ block and build to your budget.

  5. #25
    Member excrider121's Avatar
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    Dark Steel Metalic
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    It might have been a clearance issue. I had the rods stretch tested at a local machine shop and was told that they were in spec. When they were assembled, I didn't have plastigauge but since I was 'told' they were in spec, and the old bearings still looked really good, I didn't even worry with it. (new bearings were installed though) That might have been my fatal error maybe not. Is it possible to use TOO MUCH assembly lube when installing the bearings?

  6. #26
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I don't think the assembly lube would have been an issue unless you had none at all. The shop should have measure the the rods, bearings and the crank (blueprint it) to insure it would all work together.

    Did you use arp bolts for the connecting rods?

  7. #27
    Member excrider121's Avatar
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    Dark Steel Metalic
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    The machine shop told me that the rods were still round and not stretched. How they could check that, I don't know. I should have plastigauged everything myself though.

    I used ARP connecting rod bolts, but didn't realize that they would use different torque specs from stock bolts until after the engine was already assembled. Is it possible that they could have been torqued too far?

  8. #28
    Member excrider121's Avatar
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    Dark Steel Metalic
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    I think I found the stroker kit I'm going to go with.

    TSP 408 C.I.D. Rotating Assembly


    Only I'm going to upgrade the pistons to .060 over for the 427 kit. Probably going to go with Weisco pistons. I've had good luck with those in the past.

  9. #29
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by excrider121 View Post
    The machine shop told me that the rods were still round and not stretched. How they could check that, I don't know. I should have plastigauged everything myself though.

    I used ARP connecting rod bolts, but didn't realize that they would use different torque specs from stock bolts until after the engine was already assembled. Is it possible that they could have been torqued too far?

    There is your problem. I've just recently learn this as well but with ARP Connecting Rod bolts you need to install the bolts and torque to spec, Then have a machine shop re-size the bearing area. The reason why is with ARP bolts they oval the rod when torque to spec. Did you tell the shop you were using ARP bolts? If so they should have caught that.

  10. #30
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by excrider121 View Post
    I think I found the stroker kit I'm going to go with.

    TSP 408 C.I.D. Rotating Assembly


    Only I'm going to upgrade the pistons to .060 over for the 427 kit. Probably going to go with Weisco pistons. I've had good luck with those in the past.



    FYI the link might get removed since it's not a sponsor link...


    I like that setup to and have been eying it for me as well, pay the extra $250 to have them balance the rotating assembly and verify that the connecting rods are machined for the ARP bolts.

  11. #31
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by excrider121 View Post
    I think that's what I'm going to do. I just need to do some more research on what the LQ4 can handle. From what I've read, the 408 would be the biggest if I ever wanted to put any power adders on it, but if not, then the 427 is the biggest? I just don't know yet, I've only done a few hours of looking. I am surprised to find that stroking a LQ4 is cheaper than just getting a forged rotating assmy for the LS1 tho...
    Just remember, their is no replacement for displacement. Let your wallet be your guide.

  12. #32
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    Just remember, their is no replacement for displacement
    Sure there is
    SMWS6TA likes this.

  13. #33
    Member excrider121's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    There is your problem. I've just recently learn this as well but with ARP Connecting Rod bolts you need to install the bolts and torque to spec, Then have a machine shop re-size the bearing area. The reason why is with ARP bolts they oval the rod when torque to spec. Did you tell the shop you were using ARP bolts? If so they should have caught that.

    I did not know this....would it be safe to assume that if the kit ships with ARP rod bolts that the bearing area has been sized appropriately?

    I did not tell the machine shop I was changing rod bolts...come to think of it, I might have made the decision after I had them checked.

  14. #34
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by excrider121 View Post
    I did not know this....would it be safe to assume that if the kit ships with ARP rod bolts that the bearing area has been sized appropriately?
    I always call to confirm.


    Quote Originally Posted by excrider121 View Post
    I did not tell the machine shop I was changing rod bolts...come to think of it, I might have made the decision after I had them checked.
    only good news is you can reuse the arp bolts.

  15. #35
    Member excrider121's Avatar
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    After calling ARP and talking to their tech line, they say that they recommend installing the bolts 'dry' and checking them to make sure. I did some google searching and there are lots of people saying that the bolts have to be tightened and loosened and retightened several times to make sure they are "properly stretched". Is this the case or just rambling?

    Also, does anyone know how stable a N/A 427 block will be if it starts as a LQ4? I just realize that .060" is a lot of meat to remove from a sidewall...

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