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02 Z/28 dies when engine warms up.

This is a discussion on 02 Z/28 dies when engine warms up. within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Nice, glad I could help out and save you some $$$ Originally Posted by Danger731 That was it ! thanks ...

  1. #41
    Blown, Stroked, & Sprayed

    Ed Blown Vert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 1999
    San Diego, Ca

    383 Procharged & N20 Vert

    Nice, glad I could help out and save you some $$$

    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731 View Post
    That was it ! thanks Ed ! Car has been sitting for 3 months. If I knew it would be a 60 dollar part and a 15 minute job !

    Time to make that slow ass vette sit !

    Well guess one good thing came out of my Silverado getting T boned !

  2. #42
    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Quote Originally Posted by kevnstac View Post
    Here's another idea. I had a Grand Am that did that back in 92. That took a crank sensor. It used to shut off after about 15 minutes of running.
    Damn, who would a thought !

  3. #43
    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert View Post
    Nice, glad I could help out and save you some $$$

    Yeah definitely thanks ! Havin a 2 seater as the only running vehicle was gettin old.

  4. #44
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005

    98 Formula
    06 duramax

    Quote Originally Posted by MonteLS1 View Post
    Well I don't think it's your O2 sensors, they won't cause the car to just die. They can throw your fuel trims out of whack causing poor running. Coolant temperature sensor won't cause it to die either, it can cause the vehicle to run rich or lean, as the computer richens up a cold engine. Definitely don't replace your coils, as this could cost a lot of money, and there are 8 of them completely independent of each other, and they won't all fail at once. Does the vehicle just die as though you shut the car off, or does it stumble at all? I would definitely be chasing the crankcase sensor code though, as mentioned, it probably sees no oil in the pan and is shutting the engine off. Probably an inexpensive sensor, and fairly easy to change. Also crankshaft position sensors are known for quitting when they get hot and working when they get cold again. That will kill the engine instantly. If you have access to an LED test light, or even just an LED bulb for that matter, when the vehicle won't start, unplug a fuel injector and jump across the two terminals in the connector and crank the engine, if the LED doesn't flash, which I'm sure it won't by the sounds of it, that means the computer itself isn't even trying to start the engine, if the LED flashes that rules out the crankshaft position sensor and the crankcase sensor. You must use an LED as a standard bulb won't light up because the pulse is too quick. And make sure you put the LED or LED test light in both ways and try it, LEDs only work one way. You can also check with the key in the run position if you have 5 volts one of the injector wires, I'm sure there is, but you may as well check while you have one unplugged. If you don't, you may have some serious computer problems.
    I've witnessed this happen.....the ect can make a car flood out when it hits closed loop.

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