My first Dyno Questions?

**wcboricua** · 12-01-2010, 07:29 PM

Hi to everyone, this is my first time posting in here so please be patient with me. Yesterday I have a Comp cam installed in my 2000 Z28. I was exited the technician toll me that the car gain 58 horsepower with just the cam, valves and lifters. The dyno tune was done in a loader dyno. I was dissapointed when he did the pre test with out the cam and the car made 258 horse power, that included the fallowing Pacesetter long tube headers, slp air lid, K&N filter, flow master. When they installed the cam the car was 316 HP, please some one tell me why the numbers was so low. The technician mention that he use 3000 pound of resistance on the dyno. The car feel very fast and that same night I won against a 350 Z loaded with headers and a few more modifications. I heard that dyno loaders always give you low numbers? My nest installation is a 3500 converter.

**c5z28** · 12-01-2010, 08:04 PM

Putting in lifters in our cars requires removing the heads, were the heads taken off? What are the specs on the cam? Is the car currently on the stock stall? The tuner probably can't lock the stock converter with the power you are making (making it read lower). Yah those #'s seem low and no dyno is the same, the best way to test it is to take it to the track and post up the times.

**wcboricua** · 12-01-2010, 08:24 PM

Thank you c5z28 to take the time and trying to help me out. This is what the cam specs say, Duration @ .050 Intake 220 Exhaust 220
Lobe lift .3420 .3420
lobe separation 112.0
The part number 54-000-11
The technician change valve spring and something else I have to check the list, they call it a cam kit. Sorry but I love the car but I am not that good on the technical part. The car has the factory stall, Thats my next move I am going to install a stall converter 3500 in the next 10 days. Do you have any Idea in which area I am on horsepower?

**c5z28** · 12-01-2010, 08:35 PM

Unless I am reading the specs wrong the only thing throwing me off is the lift. Seems it should be in the .560 range with a 220 cam. How does it idle/ how is it at the lights with the stock stall? Seems it would want to pull through the brakes. If the cars feels faster than what it was don't get hung up on #'s, all dyno's are different. With that said mine with headers and an ls-6 intake manifold made 338hp/355tq at the wheels. Best at the track is a 12.7 at 108mph and a 1.94 60'. I assume the car will be tuned again for the stall so you may consider getting an ls-6 intake manifold or better (since you have a 00' with the ls-1 manifold). What brand converter you going with? Once you get it stalled don't be surprised to see the #'s drop again, autos aren't dyno queens but they will rape an m-6 out of the whole.

**wcboricua** · 12-01-2010, 08:57 PM

Yes you are right the Gross valve lift is .581 for intake and exhaust. The car idle beautiful and it really want to take off when I am in a traffic light with the brakes. I will check with the technician to find out the brand of the stall converter. I was reading and article and it mention that loaded dynos sometime remove 24 % on the chassis and train loss. Is that the case my car should be on 391 RHP.

**c5z28** · 12-01-2010, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by wcboricua

Yes you are right the Gross valve lift is .581 for intake and exhaust. The car idle beautiful and it really want to take off when I am in a traffic light with the brakes. I will check with the technician to find out the brand of the stall converter. I was reading and article and it mention that loaded dynos sometime remove 24 % on the chassis and train loss. Is that the case my car should be on 391 RHP.

That seems a bit on the high side, are you running the ls-1 intake with the egr? Where does it idle at? Curious since I am on the stock stall and anything close to 700rpm the brakes start to grunt. I would check the auto section on this site and search on google for people's comparisons for torque converter's. Yank, fuddle, circle D are reputable converter's. The only one some people have complained about is the tci mainly for being loose and the clutch doesn't seem to be as strong as the other brands. Of course people have been running them w/o issue though.
Look into getting an auxiliary cooler for the new converter, the bigger the better to keep the trans alive

**wcboricua** · 12-01-2010, 09:26 PM

the EGR was removed and eliminated. As far Idle the RPM gauge is on the 1 and sometimes go lower

**wcboricua** · 12-01-2010, 09:27 PM

Originally Posted by wcboricua

the EGR was removed and eliminated. As far Idle the RPM gauge is on the 1 and sometimes go lower

Gauge between 6000 and 9000 RPM

**c5z28** · 12-01-2010, 09:47 PM

Originally Posted by wcboricua

Gauge between 6000 and 9000 RPM

600-900 right?

Another $300 for what's worth about 15-20rwhp in your case, if you get an ls-6 intake.
Good luck, if you didn't beat the 350z I would have been worried but it looks like you'll be fine.

**wcboricua** · 12-01-2010, 09:58 PM

yes

, thank you for the advice, I am going to check the ls6 intake. Is there any other aftermarket that can be use and gain more horsepower?

**c5z28** · 12-01-2010, 10:05 PM

Originally Posted by wcboricua

yes

, thank you for the advice, I am going to check the ls6 intake. Is there any other aftermarket that can be use and gain more horsepower?

Fast intake manifolds. However you have to buy a larger throttle body to accommodate the 90mm, 92, 102 intake opening. The 90, 92 they don't make anymore so you would have to get those used. With a new fast intake you'd be looking at spending a little over a grand to get the tb and intake. A used 90/92 for around 600 for just the intake if you are lucky. The 90 and up can see 20hp or more depending on the cam/heads.
With the ls-6 you can simply bolt it up to your existing throttle body, more to be had but it's cheaper than the above.