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road race alignment specs

This is a discussion on road race alignment specs within the Road Racing / AutoX forums, part of the Racing Forums category; A while back someone posted Alignment specs for camber caster and toe for a good road race setup for a ...

  1. #1
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    road race alignment specs

    A while back someone posted Alignment specs for camber caster and toe for a good road race setup for a camaro. Does anyone have these? Thanks!

    jeff

  2. #2
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    camber -0.50 to -0.75
    caster +4.50 to +5.00
    toe +0.06 to +0.10

    who's going to do the alignment?

  3. #3
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    I don't know who to use actually. Suggestions in my area? By the way, the cars running awesome, I am so happy with my 408

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    dark bowling green
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    your area would be me.

  5. #5
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    i use -2* camber most of the time. i've tried a bunch, i think -2 is most responsive for my setup. i'd get a set of adjustable lower control arms if ya don't have them already, that way you can fine-tune the others yourself. there is no defined number to make your car handle best, it all depends on how low it is, what speeds you'll be runnnin, etc. etc.
    2000 red ss: >2" drop, koni adjustables 'n 275 s-compounds all way around, giant brakes, dynatech LT's, borla catback (no plate), t56, tubular everything, HARD TOP, caged, "stock" heads 'n a mean cam. -2* front camber.

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    Rob, are you saying that you do alignments? I know your in orlando, I just meant a shop in the Sanford to Orlando area. For my setup as much negative camber as a person can possible get is better. The stock control arms don't provide much adjustability. I've got coil overs to adjust ride height but that shouldn't play much of a part.

    Jeff

  7. #7
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    yep i run an alignment shop.

  8. #8
    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Can you recommend one for AX that is also DD'able? I'm running 4 Eagle F1's, 275ea.

  9. #9
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    well it all depends on what you are lookin' at when you say "DD". all of the specs are DDable, the only question is how much tire wear you will see as a result. for DDin i would stick camber somewhere between -1 and -2 and leave the rest alone. camber makes daily drivin easier IMO cuz you can blast around turns and is much more responsive. with my setup, my front and rear tires need to be replaced at same time, because the inner patch of tire goes bald same time the rear tires go bald. you could get some cheaper tires next time. you dont need the f1's and wont feel so bad tearin them up. with camber set and cheap tires, your car will handle way better than 0* w/ eagle f1's.

    i didn't catch that you wanted to AX. . .all the above is true and camber-only adjustment will still make for an awesome AX setup. . .if you know you are going to AX many times on a set of tires, i'd set it -1.5 to -2. -1.5 would prob be your best balance between excellent handling and decent wear characteristics, but you will definately rail some turns better with -2 or -2.5 even. because autox tends to be slower, sharper turns you want a decently sticky rear tire so you can really plant those front wheels without losin the rear. i know this is a bold statement, but there is no car that is not a supercar (vette included in that) that will beat an f-body in fast turns because of the giant stance of our cars. unfortunately there is a trade-off to that. . .slower turns are dominated by the smaller cars so you gotta try to make up for that in AX with extreme camber adjustments. im rambling and don't wanna feed you info you dont want/already know so im just gonna stop now and let you ask if you want more info.
    Last edited by side2000; 02-13-2009 at 01:09 PM.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios View Post
    Can you recommend one for AX that is also DD'able? I'm running 4 Eagle F1's, 275ea.
    this

    Quote Originally Posted by mrr23 View Post
    camber -0.50 to -0.75
    caster +4.50 to +5.00
    toe +0.06 to +0.10

    who's going to do the alignment?

  11. #11
    On a 255/50-16 Toyo, my 3100lb car liked -1.5* camber and zero toe.

    I've since moved to 275/40-17 and the car seems to want more negative camber. I've moved it to -1.9* and am moving 0.1" toe OUT. The car wants to skate a little on turn in.

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    Member side2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitchntx View Post
    On a 255/50-16 Toyo, my 3100lb car liked -1.5* camber and zero toe.

    I've since moved to 275/40-17 and the car seems to want more negative camber. I've moved it to -1.9* and am moving 0.1" toe OUT. The car wants to skate a little on turn in.
    are you runnin' an f-body? ? ?

  13. #13
    Yes ...

    http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis2.htm

    From this past weekend ...



    I imagine the reason you ask is because you are wondering how I get that much negative camber.

    Simple ... elongate the slot on the K-Member.
    Last edited by mitchntx; 02-17-2009 at 05:51 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mitchntx View Post
    Yes ...

    http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis2.htm

    From this past weekend ...



    I imagine the reason you ask is because you are wondering how I get that much negative camber.

    Simple ... elongate the slot on the K-Member.
    nah i run -2 most of the time myself. . . .i was wondering that because you originally said 255's. . . .i've ran -3 but there is a rod end at every mount on my car, pretty much.

    nice to see someone racin' their f-body, nice car.
    Last edited by side2000; 02-17-2009 at 06:00 PM.

  15. #15
    Ah ... A 255 toyo had almost 10" wide contact patch. The reason we ran it.

    And thanks for the compliment. I've been fortunate over the last couple years bringing home a regional Championship trophy both years.
    This year is gonna be a LOT tougher ... lots of fast cars this year.

  16. #16
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    you still runnin an LT? do you race anywhere outside of texas?

  17. #17
    Yes, still have an LT1. It's a great motor. A SBC can take a crapload of abuse. Just keep it lubed and keep it cool ...

    I've been to No Problem raceway outside of Baton rouge once and make an annual trek to HAllett Motorracing Circuit outside of Tulsa, OK each year. I've also raced at Pueblo Motorsports Park in CO once. And I was crew chief to a podium finish twice at Nationals in Ohio. All in CMC or CMC2.

    I cannot say enough how cheap it is to go WtoW racing. I was so scared of beating and banging the car up. And while it does happen, incedents are far and few between. I began racing in 05 and had my first "significant" bady damage last weekend. And it's hardly noticeable.

    I spent less that $3,000 running 26 races all over Texas and Oklahoma. That includes travel expenses to and from, food,, tires, brakes, fuel ... everything.

    I have about $13,000 in my car, spread over 4 years. I have about $2500 in safety gear like helmet, suit, HANS, nomex, shoes and gloves.

    The first year, it's a tough check to write. But now I spend less, a LOT less, on my race car than I ever did on my street car.

  18. #18
    Member side2000's Avatar
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    yea i road race mine, rev to 7 grand, and plan to keep on abusin it. . . besides axle bearings (done them 3 times) i havn't had any problems at all.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrr23 View Post
    this
    agree

  20. #20
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    Hey Mitch, how heavy is your car since it's stripped?

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