Tires out of balance

[IH8EVRY1]

Has anyone had this happen on a mostly stock car? I used tape weights to balance my Nittos. After the trip to the track last weekend with several burnouts and a few dead hooks, I developed a vibration. The rear wheels/tires are out of balance now. Never thought it would turn the wheels in the tires. How can I keep it from happening with drag radials?

[Firebirdjones]

Are you saying you spun the wheels on the rims at the track?? Are you sure that happened?

Are you running extremely low pressure at the track? What size tire/wheel combo are you using?

[TLS_Addict]

Did the weights fall off? I have seen people put a piece of duct tape on them to help hold them on. I have never really had an issue but dont do huge burn outs.

Oh, and I had Nitto 555r tires on my GTO with stick on weights.

[Firebirdjones]

Did the weights fall off? I have seen people put a piece of duct tape on them to help hold them on.

Actually, if you use stick on weights the NHRA rules require that you put duck tape over them.

[TLS_Addict]

Actually, if you use stick on weights the NHRA rules require that you put duck tape over them.

Good to know.

[Z28Thunder]

Are you saying you spun the wheels on the rims at the track?? Are you sure that happened?

Are you running extremely low pressure at the track? What size tire/wheel combo are you using?

Makes me wonder the same questions. Once I went to drag slicks here I started marking the wheels and tires. You can buy racer tape but why?? I just used white shoe polish and left a nice line...

[TLS_Addict]

Makes me wonder the same questions. Once I went to drag slicks here I started marking the wheels and tires. You can buy racer tape but why?? I just used white shoe polish and left a nice line...

Was thinking that as well. At what pressure do tires start to move on the rim?

[Z28Thunder]

Was thinking that as well. At what pressure do tires start to move on the rim?

It depends an wheel and tire combo. It depends on the suspension setup. it depends on the track setup (VHT). I know you're aware of all that not trying to be smart. But you tend to see it more on drag slicks. And it depends.. You get in the teens 15/19 ish and it can move on the rim..

[IH8EVRY1]

I'm running 315 nittos on 17x11 ZR1s. 14-15psi was the air pressure and I did some pretty good burnouts. Good to know about the tape over the weights but I know they moved. I lined the tire up on the wheel si that the little yellow circle in the side wall was in line with the valve stem on tye wheel. Neither of them are there anymore.

[Firebirdjones]

Good to know.

Well, they don't always check, but they are supposed to be taped on.

You know those tech officials, sometimes I go through and they don't even pop the hood. Other times they are crawling around the engine to make sure the blow proof is held in with grade 8 hardware.

[Firebirdjones]

I'm running 315 nittos on 17x11 ZR1s. 14-15psi was the air pressure and I did some pretty good burnouts. Good to know about the tape over the weights but I know they moved. I lined the tire up on the wheel si that the little yellow circle in the side wall was in line with the valve stem on tye wheel. Neither of them are there anymore.

Hmm, well that's one of the issues you may run into when running a tire with basically no side wall to cushion the blow.
Couple that with a tire that has about a 12" section width on an 11" rim, the only thing forcing those beads out to the rim for the most part is air pressure. I'd rather see them on a slightly more narrow rim for piece of mind.

Your air pressure doesn't seem bad if that is a cold setting. After a good burnout you would probably have 17-18 lbs. pulling up to the beams.

It's just not an optimum tire package for drag racing I hate to say, and probably not what you want to hear.
About the only solution if you want to keep them is to screw them to the wheels. Possibly just the inside if you don't want to look at them, and that might get you by.

[TLS_Addict]

Good information here.

[IH8EVRY1]

yes good info. I was afraid I was going to hear that. I raced some pro-street several years ago so I know about tires moving on the wheels but I was hoping not to have to do that with a setup that I do drive on the road.

I asked a friend that races a car with far more power than I have what he uses on his drag radials and he told me that he hair sprays(like old school sticky crap) the tires once they are over the wheels but not inflated. Once you heat them up it's like adhesive spray but doesn't look like crap. I may break them back down and try it. Sounds like a wives tail to me but I can do all the mounting and de-mounting of tires for free so it's worth a shot if you ask me to keep from screwing them on.

He told me that when he de-mounted his wheels and tires that they were literally stuck on and that his have never moved but he has a lot more sidewall than I do. It sucks that the combo doesn't work too well because my dinky power set up was dead hooking on them.

[Firebirdjones]

Yes you can glue them and that might work for you.

I've never heard of the hairspray trick, but that might work and be alot less messy.
I've only seen weatherstrip adhesive used, which is pretty tacky stuff. Problem is though when the bead snaps into place it can be a little messy and hard to clean.

[Z28Thunder]

Hmm, well that's one of the issues you may run into when running a tire with basically no side wall to cushion the blow.
Couple that with a tire that has about a 12" section width on an 11" rim, the only thing forcing those beads out to the rim for the most part is air pressure. I'd rather see them on a slightly more narrow rim for piece of mind.

Your air pressure doesn't seem bad if that is a cold setting. After a good burnout you would probably have 17-18 lbs. pulling up to the beams.

It's just not an optimum tire package for drag racing I hate to say, and probably not what you want to hear.
About the only solution if you want to keep them is to screw them to the wheels. Possibly just the inside if you don't want to look at them, and that might get you by.

The 17x11's are heavy and IMO add to the ability of the tire to slip. I have ZR1's but never used them on the track. I bought a set of 16x10 salad shooters for my nitto's. I then put et streets on them. I ran the stock Z wheels up front when racing at the track. After awhile I sold the salad shooters and went Tel Star...

[IH8EVRY1]

The 17x11's are heavy and IMO add to the ability of the tire to slip. I have ZR1's but never used them on the track. I bought a set of 16x10 salad shooters for my nitto's. I then put et streets on them. I ran the stock Z wheels up front when racing at the track. After awhile I sold the salad shooters and went Tel Star...

I'm looking for a set of 15" wheels for the track now. It should help with my tire/wheel issues and be a lot lighter. The Nittos and 17x11s will be my street setup once I get another set up. First things first...H/C/I install...need more power.

[Firebirdjones]

That's the way to do it, have some 15 inch track wheels, and keep the fancy 17" stuff for street driving.

[TLS_Addict]

I cant even afford crappy salad shooters for the track...............lol

[IH8EVRY1]

^ me either but I'm not afraid of eating tuna and romen noodles.

[TLS_Addict]

^ me either but I'm not afraid of eating tuna and romen noodles.

I dont eat tune but I have a stack of Ramen Noodles in the cupboard. The Dollar General has them 6 for a $1. I have a freezer full of deer as well.