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shifting rpm

This is a discussion on shifting rpm within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; Originally Posted by mxlplx71 it makes a rattleing sound every once in a while on a hard run, mybe the ...

  1. #21
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxlplx71 View Post
    it makes a rattleing sound every once in a while on a hard run, mybe the oil is too hot or too thin its new mobil 1 , i may take a qt or 2 out and put in alittle 15-50
    That rattleing sound is more then likely from something else. If the internals of the motor were rattling around at that high of RPM, your motor would be done for within a short period of time.
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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Stock valve springs have very little seat pressure in these LS1's. (under 100 lbs.) And that is usually the first thing to give you fits when trying to wing these motors up. Causes the valves to bounce off the seat. Minor valve float will cause a loss of power. Major valve float you can hear, causes slack in the valve train and starts to damage things.

    If you guys are going through the trouble just to change push rods, may as well swap in a better set of valve springs while you're in there.
    A spring swap alone should yield a little more usable upper RPM range than you had before over a stock weak set of springs.

  3. #23
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Stock valve springs have very little seat pressure in these LS1's. (under 100 lbs.) And that is usually the first thing to give you fits when trying to wing these motors up. Causes the valves to bounce off the seat. Minor valve float will cause a loss of power. Major valve float you can hear, causes slack in the valve train and starts to damage things.

    If you guys are going through the trouble just to change push rods, may as well swap in a better set of valve springs while you're in there.
    A spring swap alone should yield a little more usable upper RPM range than you had before over a stock weak set of springs.
    That makes complete sense. Lifters rattling around just doesn't seem right to me in any aspect.

  4. #24
    Junior Member mxlplx71's Avatar
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    what can i do to get it to rev to 7000 safely,, pushrods, springs,
    bump rev limiter. tune.
    this winter im going to do the cam and want t push the power up to around 400.
    i should have all the easy bolton mods by then also.
    Last edited by mxlplx71; 05-29-2010 at 04:40 PM.

  5. #25
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxlplx71 View Post
    what can i do to get it to rev to 7000 safely,, pushrods, springs,
    bump rev limiter. tune.
    this winter im going to do the cam and want t push the power up to around 400.
    i should have all the easy bolton mods by then also.
    A cam made to make power that high, springs, pushrods, oil pump and I'd do rod bolts and tune.

  6. #26
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    To get the most out of any combo, you need to shift about ~500 rpm above peak HP.
    With that said, a stock LS1 peaks somewhere at or just below 6,000 rpm. Best times would be achieved shifting 4-500 rpms above that. In order to do that on a stock motor a couple things need addressed.
    The stock valve springs hit valve float before that, so a better set is needed. Pushrods wouldn't be a bad idea while you are in there.
    The other issue is the tune. The stock setting on the rev limiter will not allow you past 6,200.

    Running much more than that would be a waste. And to reach your 7,000 rpm goal, you will need a camshaft capable, that at least makes peak power just below that rpm.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    To get the most out of any combo, you need to shift about ~500 rpm above peak HP.
    With that said, a stock LS1 peaks somewhere at or just below 6,000 rpm. Best times would be achieved shifting 4-500 rpms above that. In order to do that on a stock motor a couple things need addressed.
    The stock valve springs hit valve float before that, so a better set is needed. Pushrods wouldn't be a bad idea while you are in there.
    The other issue is the tune. The stock setting on the rev limiter will not allow you past 6,200.

    Running much more than that would be a waste. And to reach your 7,000 rpm goal, you will need a camshaft capable, that at least makes peak power just below that rpm.
    Seems like we think the same way

  8. #28
    Junior Member mxlplx71's Avatar
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    pewter
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    thanks for the advice. can you recomend a good cam for 400 hp i'll do the springs and pushrods to. i dont "need" to rev that much with the right cam for 400hp. i just need to put together a good combo.

  9. #29
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mxlplx71 View Post
    thanks for the advice. can you recomend a good cam for 400 hp i'll do the springs and pushrods to. i dont "need" to rev that much with the right cam for 400hp. i just need to put together a good combo.
    My cam makes max power at 6,500 rpms and with the 500 rpm over would be 7,000 rpms. It should make 400 hp with stock heads since most people say a 224r will be close. Just my .02

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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    To get the most out of any combo, you need to shift about ~500 rpm above peak HP.
    With that said, a stock LS1 peaks somewhere at or just below 6,000 rpm. Best times would be achieved shifting 4-500 rpms above that. In order to do that on a stock motor a couple things need addressed.
    The stock valve springs hit valve float before that, so a better set is needed. Pushrods wouldn't be a bad idea while you are in there.
    The other issue is the tune. The stock setting on the rev limiter will not allow you past 6,200.

    Running much more than that would be a waste. And to reach your 7,000 rpm goal, you will need a camshaft capable, that at least makes peak power just below that rpm.
    This is basically what I was going after in my first post in this thread. According to my DYNO graph from my tune, I peaked out at about 5500 RPM with a little drop off until 6200 RPM. I always shift at 6100-6200 and thus when the needle drops I'm at peak power.

  11. #31
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    Oh, and I have stock pushrods.

  12. #32
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    Thats strange everyone says 6 grand avg to shift...Either my tach is off or something cause i shifted at 6500 one run and the next almost 7 grand? I dont get that. well now i'll calm down a little cause i dont want to blow it up haha well at least i know she can handle it. Still runs like a champ

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