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Shifting

This is a discussion on Shifting within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; I'm gonna be taking my car to the track a few times this year, and I was just looking for ...

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    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Shifting

    I'm gonna be taking my car to the track a few times this year, and I was just looking for some advice on shifting (M6). I'm NOT going to power shift, but my main question is do you guys bring the car to redline, then shift so that the rpms fall back into the powerband, or is there a better way to do it? I only have a few bolt ons and I'm hoping to get at least lt's b4 spring.

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    I shift at the redline. I use to short shift in 1st and 2nd to prevent excessive wheel spin but have found I can run quicker by controlling wheel spin with the throttle rather then short shifting. I'm hoping I can duplicate my high 12s with the gtech at the track this spring. I'd be happing with the 13.1s or 13.2s though since all I have is a lid, catback and 410s.

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    fraz fraz1le's Avatar
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    I would try the redline in 1st but I run best shifting at 5500 out of 1st. Every car is different so just learn what you car likes. As for the rest of the shifts I say as close to the rev-limiter as you can get without hitting it.

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    Driver for hire ss_caramo's Avatar
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    It takes a little getting used to, but shift the car when it stops "pulling". If you drive it enough, youll be able to feel when the car stops making power, at whatever rpm in whatever gear. Test it out. Take the car out and rip it hard through first and 2nd gear. Watch the tach and see where it is at when you feel the car starting to slow a little during the top end of each gear. You want to shift it as soon as it starts to "roll off" of the power. That being when the car stops building HP and starts to decline in HP. A little tip that will help you shift hard and fast is this: When you are at full throttle, you will be very hard pressed to pull the transmission out of gear. For example when I launch and I get a full load on the tranny, I begin to pull on the shifter fairly hard. again, pull fairly hard, youll see you pretty much cant pull it out of first gear at WOT. By doing this, youre setting up your shift into 2nd. If you are pulling hard, all you will have to do is disengage the clutch, blip the throttle and BANG youre in 2nd. This is not a power shift since you disengaged the clutch fully. It takes alot of practice to do it right with the throttle blip timing and all that, but once you get it down, youll be shifting as smooth and as fast as an A4. Repeat the process for 3rd and 4th shifts. Its one swift hard motion of throttle foot slightly lifiting, clutch foot flicking the clutch pedal. If youre pulling on the shifter, as soon as you flick that clutch its gonna bang into the next gear. FYI take your time learning the 2nd to 3rd shift. You dont want to stuff the thing back into first Driver mod FTW.

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    It's more important where your RPMS are after the shift then before it. If shifting when youre car begin to pull less puts you in the meat of the power band for the next gear that's fine. If not then you should shift a little later. It all takes practice to find what makes your car go the fastest.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rc74racer View Post
    I shift at the redline. I use to short shift in 1st and 2nd to prevent excessive wheel spin but have found I can run quicker by controlling wheel spin with the throttle rather then short shifting. I'm hoping I can duplicate my high 12s with the gtech at the track this spring. I'd be happing with the 13.1s or 13.2s though since all I have is a lid, catback and 410s.
    what correction factor are you using on the gtech? (how many degrees?)

    12.718 @ 117.47

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    Quote Originally Posted by rc74racer View Post
    It's more important where your RPMS are after the shift then before it. If shifting when youre car begin to pull less puts you in the meat of the power band for the next gear that's fine. If not then you should shift a little later. It all takes practice to find what makes your car go the fastest.
    ya, a gtech is great for finding shift points. i gained about 1.5mph in the 1/4 by adjusting my shift points.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TrickStang37 View Post
    what correction factor are you using on the gtech? (how many degrees?)
    I'm using the original Gtech.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rc74racer View Post
    I'm using the original Gtech.
    oh. well, i had one of the original ones way back when too. i wouldnt trust the times/mphs all that much when comparing to real track times, BUT they are still great at finding shift points.

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    The times should be pretty close. I ran low 14s in my celica with this same unit an turned the exact same times at the track. MPH is usually off but times are usually within a tenth or two.

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    JUISSED Midnight02's Avatar
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    I concur....I've found that my GTech is fairly accurate provided you run on level ground. Tossing a hill into the mix will really screw with the figures.

    As for shifting, like the others said, it's all about finding your car's sweetspot. If you still have the stock 3.42s in the rear, you'll likely want to run it up higher in the band, so your next shift would put you slightly higher in the next gear. Those of us with 3.90s or 4.10s in the rear don't necessarily need to run each gear out to the rev limiter because when we shift we should already be pretty well into the power band for the next gear.
    2002 Camaro SS M6, 2.5 PRC 5.3L heads, TFS 228/230 cam, FAST 92, bolt ons + a 10 lb bottle in the back.


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    it all varies depending on tires/mods/track temp etc.

    anyhow, you want to shift at th top of the powerband, i usually shift about 6300 with some clutch work, never powershift.

    heres a vid of me at the track, 2-3 shift.

    http://s100.photobucket.com/albums/m...angeMar10t.flv

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    Member slpcamaro's Avatar
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    yeah you need to be in your power band for you next gear differenet gearing will change when you should shift so that makes difference of where your so just make sure you dont hit the rev limiter and your in the power band but like he said feel where it starts to roll off each car is diff.

    Quick questions to guy i have a 98ss ls1 m6 clutch kinda feels soft might need a new one but when i'm racing it doesn't wanna go to third got worse the other week was racing and it wouldn't even go change the clutch fluid a little better now but still trouble rear was rebuild not long ago and sometimes the brake light the asr light and the abs noop light will all turn on at once any ideas whats going on i was thinkin that maybe some small medal has come off the new diff and is causing trouble and is throughing the sensor inside the diff want to get some other ideas before i go back to the place that did the diff. sorry in a hurry didn't have time for spelling or grammer thanx

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    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slpcamaro View Post
    yeah you need to be in your power band for you next gear differenet gearing will change when you should shift so that makes difference of where your so just make sure you dont hit the rev limiter and your in the power band but like he said feel where it starts to roll off each car is diff.

    Quick questions to guy i have a 98ss ls1 m6 clutch kinda feels soft might need a new one but when i'm racing it doesn't wanna go to third got worse the other week was racing and it wouldn't even go change the clutch fluid a little better now but still trouble rear was rebuild not long ago and sometimes the brake light the asr light and the abs noop light will all turn on at once any ideas whats going on i was thinkin that maybe some small medal has come off the new diff and is causing trouble and is throughing the sensor inside the diff want to get some other ideas before i go back to the place that did the diff. sorry in a hurry didn't have time for spelling or grammer thanx
    Thanks for all the resopnses.

    I dunno about your rear sensors? I powerbraked the shit outta my car one time (getting rid of the tires) and my abs and tcs lights cam on, but I thought it was just a sensor thing...At the next stop sign my brakes locked up, so I jsut kept driving and they eventually turned off and went back to normal.

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    Member slpcamaro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01ws6er View Post
    Thanks for all the resopnses.

    I dunno about your rear sensors? I powerbraked the shit outta my car one time (getting rid of the tires) and my abs and tcs lights cam on, but I thought it was just a sensor thing...At the next stop sign my brakes locked up, so I jsut kept driving and they eventually turned off and went back to normal.
    very nice yeah i'm kinda stumped i think it might be my abs or my wheel sensor and i probably need a new clutch for the shifting but was hoping that they might have just done something wrong with the rear and it'll all would be fixed in some nice convient under warranty way lol probily not though thanks though anyone have any idea on what i can do i dont know if this helps i've had the lights pop on right after start up before the car moved at all and the clutch will be soft sometime and lately after it race it gets stiffer which i like a lot more because when it gets softer sometime it doesn't come back up right or the shift point is almost all the way on the floor

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    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    I used to have the same problem when driving aggressively...Just replaced my clutch/flywheel/slave and pilot/throwout bearings and I don't have any more of a resistance when shifting and driving hard. My slave was actually cracked and leaked fluid all over the clutch too...and my clutch was down into the rivots (ls7 clutch kit is great by the way!)

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    Member slpcamaro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01ws6er View Post
    I used to have the same problem when driving aggressively...Just replaced my clutch/flywheel/slave and pilot/throwout bearings and I don't have any more of a resistance when shifting and driving hard. My slave was actually cracked and leaked fluid all over the clutch too...and my clutch was down into the rivots (ls7 clutch kit is great by the way!)
    you read my mind that was the next question becuz this one has barly lasted a 1 yr conviently just out of warranty so the ls7 clutch is there a whole clutch kit i re did the master and slave with thte clutch two dont know if those should be bad

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    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slpcamaro View Post
    you read my mind that was the next question becuz this one has barly lasted a 1 yr conviently just out of warranty so the ls7 clutch is there a whole clutch kit i re did the master and slave with thte clutch two dont know if those should be bad
    The kit comes with Ls2 flywheel (the kit will NOT fit the ls1 flywheel) pressure plate, clutch disk, and pilot bearing...I bought a gm slave with t/out bearing also and it's a good thing cause mine was shit. For you, I dunno...I guess see what condition it's in, but if you reuse it and it leaks...bye bye clutch!

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    Member slpcamaro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01ws6er View Post
    The kit comes with Ls2 flywheel (the kit will NOT fit the ls1 flywheel) pressure plate, clutch disk, and pilot bearing...I bought a gm slave with t/out bearing also and it's a good thing cause mine was shit. For you, I dunno...I guess see what condition it's in, but if you reuse it and it leaks...bye bye clutch!
    lol good point low price to pay to be safe, did you change it yourself i got a bike to ride if i get stuck but how easy is it

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    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slpcamaro View Post
    lol good point low price to pay to be safe, did you change it yourself i got a bike to ride if i get stuck but how easy is it
    I actually got a really god deal on labor...it was supposed to be $150 but ended up being about $250 for labor, and with a new rear main seal install, crank oil seal/plug, and tranny fluid it ended up being a total of $306.96..which wasn't too bad. I have donw clutches before in a ranger and f150, and they were really easy, but a LOT more room to get the bellhousing bolts out. The mechanic who did mine was like damn it was a PIA to get to those bolts.

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