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proper burn out with M6?

This is a discussion on proper burn out with M6? within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; I have consistantly gotten crap times 13.7+, and often spin all the way through second gear.. I come to a ...

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    proper burn out with M6?

    I have consistantly gotten crap times 13.7+, and often spin all the way through second gear.. I come to a conclusion that My tires must still be wet--

    Question (no flaming)-- How do you properly do a burn out with a M6?

    First off- I can't bypass the water pit, because there is no place to drive around it. (Pittsburgh Raceway sucks)

    So I will need to do a burn out to get the water off, and the tires warmed up a bit-- I know popular belief is: that street tires don't need to be warmed up, but I think with the water pit issue I have, I would rather do a burn out, and not and have wet tires, rather than worry about heating up street tires (and losing grip that away)


    I've been dropping the clutch and burning out quickly up to redline in first, then I let off, but It happens so fast, I know my tires aren't even heating up

    My brain can't figure out how to drop the clutch hit the gas, (stay on the gas) and put my foot on the brake- and maintain the RPMs high enough to keep the tires smoking..
    I guess I just need to practice the above way..

    BUT does anyone else have any other ideas. Or can you confirm that the bolded statement is what I need to do.


    Last question-- Is there some sort of line lock for M6? that might be a good way. yes?? no???

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    your parts guy!!! 1fastcamarosss11's Avatar
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    line lock best thing 130.00 or so. slp and hurst are good.

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    NY Representative basballny2's Avatar
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    x2 on the linelock

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1fastcamarosss11 View Post
    line lock best thing 130.00 or so. slp and hurst are good.
    Okay-- can you explain how it works?

    And do I shift into second gear on the burn out- or just maintain a high enough RPM in first gear to keep em spinning?

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    You are screwed if you HAVE to drive through the water.
    Either they will be wet, or they will be hot. In which case, a street tire isn't going to be sticky at all....under either circumstance.

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    your parts guy!!! 1fastcamarosss11's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    Okay-- can you explain how it works?

    And do I shift into second gear on the burn out- or just maintain a high enough RPM in first gear to keep em spinning?

    press the brake then press the button on the line lock. the car will not move get the rpms to around 4k in first then shift a little faster then normal. you could go through 3-4 gears if you really wanted to. or you can just keep it in first like you said but you will have to sit there for a bit.

    get it?

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    got it-- I plan on getting a set of Drag radials (just not sure which ones) any suggestions?

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    Junior Member STL2SLO's Avatar
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    I have been doing mine in 2nd

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STL2SLO View Post
    I have been doing mine in 2nd

    starting in first and ending in 2nd-- or just starting in second?

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    Senior Member Bottesini's Avatar
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    Whenever possible I try to drive around the water, however even doing that there is a good chance you are going to pick up a little on your way to the line.

    What I do is bring up the motor to 4k and then drop the clutch and lightly step on the brake as fast as I can and then lightly let off so the car will roll forward. Very small burnout, I usually call it a glorified dry hop. This is mostly to clean the tires off and make sure no water is on them. It also brings the temp up just a little which my BFG G-Force Sports like. After my small burnout I then do something similar to a practice launch for a dry hop. This is just to make sure that I did not leave any water on the tires.

    I have tried this when I have been able to go around the water and when I have not. So far it seems to work alright for me, but they are still street tires and will not give very good 60' times.

    If you need more heat with your tires I would suggest just starting your burnout in 2nd gear. This is even more true for cars with higher numerical gears (ex. 4.10).

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrc1122 View Post
    starting in first and ending in 2nd-- or just starting in second?
    I start my burnouts in 2nd.

    My stock clutch wouldn't allow that though.

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    Junior Member STL2SLO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STL2SLO View Post
    I have been doing mine in 2nd
    Start in 2nd

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    Senior Member Danger731's Avatar
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    that is a dangerous track !

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger731 View Post
    that is a dangerous track !
    strange thing is---- I think they are going to have some sponsored IHRA events this year.

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    Member Benner's Avatar
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    Sux for you. I hate Pittsburgh raceway. Ran there while I was at WyoTech. The water trap plus shot slave cylinder is what screwed me. 13.8 at 109 mph with a 2.5 60foot

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    One of the biggest reasons you drive around the water (with street tires especially) is to keep the front tires dry.

    I'm surprised everyone has missed this.

    You can do all the burnouts in the world but your front tires will still drag water up to the starting line.

    Even with a sticky tire like drag radials,,,I drive around the water and then back into it. Keeps the front tires dry, I don't drag anything up to the starting line.

    On street tires I find it best to avoid the water all together,,,I don't back in,,,just do a short dry burnout letting the car roll up for about 10 feet,,,,just enough to clean the tires off,,,thats it. Nothing excessive needed here in my case. Anymore than that is just wasting the tires.
    Although some street tires like more heat than others, just something you would have to play with but keeping the front tires dry is critical so you're not dragging water up to the starting line, especially running street tires on the rear where traction is minimal anyway,,,otherwise it's all for not.

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    Senior Member jrc1122's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    One of the biggest reasons you drive around the water (with street tires especially) is to keep the front tires dry.

    I'm surprised everyone has missed this.

    You can do all the burnouts in the world but your front tires will still drag water up to the starting line.

    Even with a sticky tire like drag radials,,,I drive around the water and then back into it. Keeps the front tires dry, I don't drag anything up to the starting line.

    On street tires I find it best to avoid the water all together,,,I don't back in,,,just do a short dry burnout letting the car roll up for about 10 feet,,,,just enough to clean the tires off,,,thats it. Nothing excessive needed here in my case. Anymore than that is just wasting the tires.
    Although some street tires like more heat than others, just something you would have to play with but keeping the front tires dry is critical so you're not dragging water up to the starting line, especially running street tires on the rear where traction is minimal anyway,,,otherwise it's all for not.

    I didn't miss it, I just don't have the option either way-- You drive through it, or you don't race.

    Disclaimer-- once out of my many passes they had a brush- and pushed off the excess water from the water area-- But the other times they just left it how it was, or a few times I notice them actually spray water down before I pulled up.

    It may suck-- but other people are pulling great times-- I saw a bolt on New Mustang GT running 12.90 -- I saw many of cars running good times.

    I would say most anyone with 300 HP (crank)+ have DRs so, I just need to invest in a good set, or never except anything better than 13.5+

    I am blaming my lack of burn out, lack of Drag Radials, and driver mod on my times.
    Last edited by jrc1122; 05-05-2008 at 03:41 PM.

  18. #18
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Lol,,,,ya it's not as critical if the car in question is running any type of sticky tire.
    Sometimes it's unavoidable here as well. There is generally room to drive around the water, but they spray so much down at times that it runs off the side that is usually dry

    Most tracks also tend to NOT spray VHT on test and tune nights,,,,or they are very conservative with it. So the starting line isn't as good as say,,,,,an afternoon muscle car race or some other kind of venue,,,where they are more generous with VHT.

    Alot of them stop spraying after the first 50-60 feet,,,where as others spray the entire length,,,like Norwalk for example. Now that is a hookin track.

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