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How much horsepower to lift the front wheels?

This is a discussion on How much horsepower to lift the front wheels? within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; Originally Posted by Firebirdjones Sounds like you just need some suspension tweaking. Mainly "instant center" changes to plant the rearend ...

  1. #41
    Member Eganslp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Sounds like you just need some suspension tweaking. Mainly "instant center" changes to plant the rearend better.

    Look at that pic closely,,,,see how the rearend is separating from the body on launch?? That's from changing the instant center, it's actually pushing the rearend into the pavement.
    I don't remember Eganslp mentioning he had lower control arm relocation brackets,,,but if you look closely at the picture from the rear, you can clearly see he has them on the car (notice how the lower control arms hang down lower than usual??). What those do is move the instant center up and towards the rear of the car.
    From there it's as simple as adjusting the pinion angle with an adjustable torque arm or mount, then tweaking tire pressures, air bag pressures, and adjustable shocks if you have them.

    Should be a piece of cake to hook your car if all you have are headers and gears on a 315 MT drag radial. Not like it's making huge power (no offense).
    none taken!! Well now I have the moser 9"w/4.11's, rebuilt stage 2 T56 & DS, adj. LCA's, adj. panhard bar upper and lower, & still the same jegs TA, but I'm gonna get the BMR adj. TA with a trans relocation mount. The reason being is that the body mount won't work with TSP's x-pipe which I don't get. idk y they wouldnt make a crossmember mount for true duals its beyond me, but w/e it is, what it is!

    Also when I got my rear made I told them to put the brackets in the same spot as the oem rear. So am I able to still change " instant center "? Or no!


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  2. #42
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eganslp View Post
    none taken!! Well now I have the moser 9"w/4.11's, rebuilt stage 2 T56 & DS, adj. LCA's, adj. panhard bar upper and lower, & still the same jegs TA, but I'm gonna get the BMR adj. TA with a trans relocation mount. The reason being is that the body mount won't work with TSP's x-pipe which I don't get. idk y they wouldnt make a crossmember mount for true duals its beyond me, but w/e it is, what it is!

    Also when I got my rear made I told them to put the brackets in the same spot as the oem rear. So am I able to still change " instant center "? Or no!


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    I'm not sure what moser did with your rearend on the lower control arms. Sometimes they are made with a lower mounting point to change the instant center, other times they are the stock brackets that would require the aftermarket (weld or bold on) adjustable lower control arm brackets to be added.
    What you want to do to change the instant center is to drop the rear portion of the lower control arms (where they bolt to the rearend). So as to point the lower control arms in a more upward direction.
    How much depends on the car. I believe the aftermarket brackets only give you one set of holes anyway, so it's your only option. In most cases it should be enough.

  3. #43
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    My Moser LCA brackets with my 9" have 4 holes for settings.

    Also, where the brackets come welded onto the Moser housing is not in the same location as where the OEM LCA brackets are located. The brackets are up higher due to the size of the axle housing.

  4. #44
    The Demon Demon_Z28's Avatar
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    When I get my 9" I will make sure and get the welded LCA relocation Brackets. I have a pair on my 10 bolt now. Reminds me that I need to lower them another inch from lowering my Camaro on Strano's lol.

    I think someone here has a bone stock F-Body on drag suspension and put the car into low 12's lifting the front end.

  5. #45
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon_Z28 View Post
    I think someone here has a bone stock F-Body on drag suspension and put the car into low 12's lifting the front end.
    Easily possible. It only takes a car about 102 mph to be capable of high 12's if it utilizes the suspension properly.
    A car that traps 108-110 mph will go 12.0's if setup properly, good air possibly quicker.

  6. #46
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I wish I could get mine there on my current set-up 13.19 @ 108MPH....1.906 60'

  7. #47
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I wish I could get mine there on my current set-up 13.19 @ 108MPH....1.906 60'
    That's a mid to low 12 second car easily, the mph is there

  8. #48
    The Demon Demon_Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    That's a mid to low 12 second car easily, the mph is there
    yea my 12.6 @ 114mph was on a 2.1 60 foot time...

  9. #49
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    Almost no horsepower. Remove front shocks. Use the gas and brake pedals just right and it will get off the ground

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  10. #50
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    That's a mid to low 12 second car easily, the mph is there
    I'm thinking the same thing. On the street it pulls on cars with about the same, if not more ass in them. However, at the track I'm not having much luck.

    It could very well be my shifting, even though I shift it hard and fast. Could also be where I'm shifting it at.

  11. #51
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    Lifting them is cool but you lose time from doing it. I always strive to keep them on the deck. Lifting them also isn't cool when you start breaking things.
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  12. #52
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    A good launch for me is only one tire lifted about three inches off the track and the other one barely in contact. The goal is to have maximum push forward, not up...

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by tnthub View Post
    A good launch for me is only one tire lifted about three inches off the track and the other one barely in contact. The goal is to have maximum push forward, not up...
    Like this...


  14. #54
    Junior Member blackmagicturbo's Avatar
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    It can be done with a stock ls1 f body, a4 w/stock converter ,stock gear with qa1 front coilovers on the softest setting and no sway bar.. 26 x 11.50 16 E.T. ST on 12psi,, its only 2 or 3 inches on the drivers side .. but it looks cool lol..

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    Quote Originally Posted by tnthub View Post
    A good launch for me is only one tire lifted about three inches off the track and the other one barely in contact. The goal is to have maximum push forward, not up...
    The best lift would be a even 3" on each side. Lifted like you state says you're twisting the frame. Over time that adds up and one wrong lift like that can change the frame. Then you're chasing another animal trying to get the right setup.

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