This is a discussion on Helmet's within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; What Helmet's are you guy's using for drag racing... My old helmet is from 2003 and I want a new ...
03-15-2011, 09:07 AM #1
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- pasadena md
- Blog Entries
- 2002 SS Camaro
What Helmet's are you guy's using for drag racing... My old helmet is from 2003 and I want a new one.
What do you think of this one
03-15-2011, 09:50 AM #2
I have a Simpson Bandit helmet - and love it.
The helmet you're looking at looks okay too.
03-15-2011, 09:55 AM #3
I have a few AGV helmets. Some are Snell 90 and others are Snell 95 rating. Not sure if I should replace them yet or not.
The composit I was told does go bad over time even if it is not used but I am sure an old one is better than nothing.
I think we have to have one for anything over 100mph but last time I didnt wear one. I will this year if we have to though.
03-15-2011, 10:02 AM #4
Generally they have to be updated every couple of years. Kind of a waste for a mild street car that runs 12's or 13's when you figure a good helmet is at least $100 a pop, couple that with going to the track 2-3 times a year, you don't really get your money's worth.
03-15-2011, 12:10 PM #5
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- pasadena md
- Blog Entries
- 2002 SS Camaro
I usually go to the track every friday during the summer tho so I think its worth it for me... I'm just trying to get a good one cause I also am going to be taking it auto crossing after all the suspension parts are put on
03-15-2011, 02:31 PM #6
I would look for a good snell rated helmet. Like others said, find a year old one for $100 and be done with it. Check with where you autocross as they may have a specific rating in order to compete.
I would love to use a "Chips" style helmet at the track. That would be funny as hell.
03-15-2011, 05:56 PM #7
I actually prefer it over the full face stuff. Dale Earnhardt Sr. still used one all the time right up till his death.
03-15-2011, 06:02 PM #8
My dad has a snell approved faceless helmet. I wouldnt wear it but thats just me. Diginity I still have and want to retain but again, thats just me. lol
03-15-2011, 06:10 PM #9
What dignity?? Just because a helmet is faceless??
That's like saying you wouldn't drive a vintage 69 SS 396 chevelle. They both come from the same era Girls don't go to sock hops without poodle skirts ya know.
If you want the look, may as well go all the way or nothing.
Guess you had to be there. I don't think the youngins here can comprehend.
03-15-2011, 06:26 PM #10
Lots of things came from that era as well. "GRID" was on the rise at that time, does it mean I want it? Hell no.
Sock hops dont exist anymore and if they do its only for people with fake hips. Poodle skirts are out now as well.
I cant comprehend. Go face first down the road and that faceless helmet wont do shit for you. Hence why motorcycle races dont use them anymore, sort of like a carb vs FI.
03-16-2011, 04:24 AM #11
03-16-2011, 10:52 AM #12
Get out of the house much?? 396/325's dogs?? I can tell you some 325 HP stories from my own experiences, but I'll leave it to the facts for now.
They are NHRA factored depending on weight in E/SA and can also run in either D/SA or F/SA and generally they ET anywhere from 11.50 to 11.85. I'd say they run pretty good.
Not to mention the NHRA refactored them from 325 hp to 358 HP. They only refactored the 350 HP versions to 355 HP. Thats just stock eliminator with very stringent rules,,,I won't even get into super stock. A little food for thought
Oh ya,,,the comparison was based on a time frame but I guess you didn't get that.
And yes,,,sock hops still do exist,,,where have you been? There are plenty of clubs that do infact hold sock hops, I've been to a few,,,,and yes the ladies still dress in poodle skirts. Believe it or not, they are still made by several companies. It's all part of the experience. You know,,,dress up for holloween?
And lastly,,,what does going face down have to do with driving a car at the track. That's what this subject is about,,,,,not riding motorcycles.
In which case yes I agree, riding a bike I'd prefer a full face helmet, albiet I'd feel like I'm sufficating in the name of safety.
In a car however, I'll take the faceless anyday of the week. No chance of me face planting on the pavement while buckled down in the car
03-16-2011, 10:53 AM #13
03-16-2011, 10:55 AM #14
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Mansfield, PA
Black & Blue
- '02 WS.6 / '07 Suburban
Subscribed -- for the helmet information.
What other safety equipment / clothing do you guys that run in the 11.5 to 13.5 second range utilize? I have considered an on board extinguisher.
03-16-2011, 11:06 AM #15
13.99 1/4-mile (8.59 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A driveshaft safety loop is required when you run slicks (not drag radials or street tires). With street tires or drag radials, no loop is required until 11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) and faster.
-A helmet (closed face or open) is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 2017). Shield is not required.
11.99 1/4-mile ( 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-Metal screw-in valve stems required on tubeless tires on all wheels.
11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).
-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)
-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).
-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)
-Screw-in valve stems
-No tint allowed on window except factory
10.99 1/4-mile (6.99 1/8-mile) or quicker:
-5-point roll bar is still okay to 10.00 1/4-mile (6.40 1/8-mile) in hardtop / t-top with un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay). If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
-Convertibles require full roll cage at 10.99 and quicker.
See diagram below.
-aftermarket axles with positive retention (c-clip eliminators)
-Transmission shield SFI Spec 4.1 at 10.99 and quicker or 135 mph and quicker (blanket is okay, no expiration date)
-Harmonic Balancer SFI Spec 18.1 (no expiration date)
9.99 1/4-mile (6.39 1/8-mile)/ 135 mph or quicker:
-Roll cage is required on all vehicles at 9.99 and quicker or any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs. Roll cage must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation. This style of cage is good til 8.50 1/4-mile times, then a funny car style cage is required.
See diagram below.
-Window net required (can be ribbon or mesh, no altering allowed unless done by manufacturer. 2009 NHRA rule book states mesh nets carry a manufacturer date and a 2 year expiration/re-cert, while ribbon are good forever. Check with your local track or division).
-NHRA competition driver's license required, done by car designation (dragster, door car, etc). A physical, 2 NHRA licensed drivers to witness/sign your forms and a minimum of 6 runs are required. For NHRA license form click here: www.nhra.com/contacts/forms/licenseapp.pdf, for NHRA physical form click here: www.nhra.com/contacts/forms/physical01.pdf
-Flexplate SFI 29.1 and shield SFI 30.1 required (no expiration dates listed, but I believe the shield is 5 years)
-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket and pants with a 3.2A/5 rating, gloves and neck collar, no expiration date)
-Battery cutoff (regardless or whether battery is still up front or relocated to rear of vehicle). The cutoff switch must shut down everything electrical when off; see here for pictures and a wiring diagram: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/drag-r...ct-switch.html
-A full-face helmet is required with a minimum Snell K98 or M2000/SA2000 rating. Helmets last 12 years from their rating date (example a Snell 2005 would be good until 1/2017). Shield is permitted, and modifications to helmet or shield are prohibited. This rule posting is as it applies to cars like ours (closed body type). For open cars a different helmet ruling is required.
-A engine diaper is required at NHRA national and divisional races, local races vary, check with your division or track.
-Required at 150 mph no et restriction
Roll bar Diagram:
Roll Cage Diagram (good to 8.50 1/4-mile elapsed times):
03-16-2011, 11:08 AM #16
In that range, as long as you are running a hardtop, all you need is a snell approved helmet and some form of a seat belt, doesn't matter if it's just a lap belt.
The car however gets tricky depending on the tires you run as well as whether it's a stick or auto.
Slicks on steel wheels don't require longer wheel studs,,,but aluminum wheels do. They also get into blow proof bellhousings (stick cars) and driveshaft loops if sticky tires are ran and ET quicker than 13.99 (if I remember right) And even if you run street tires but dip below 11.99 you still are required to have a blow proof and driveshaft loop.
Then of course faster than your allotted time (11.50) cutoff requires a minimum 4 point roll bar and other things get more strict as well. You are technically required at this point to have a fire retardent jacket, and a minimum 5 point safety harness.
These particular stringent set of rules apply to convertables at quicker than 13.50 That's a little extreme but that's the NHRA for ya.
03-16-2011, 11:09 AM #17
Ah there ya go, Jeta spelled it all out,,,seems my memory isn't too shabby for an old guy,,,lol.
03-16-2011, 11:15 AM #18
And you are right, I would rather be in a 1st gen than any other.
Where did the 375 solid lifter engines get re-rated? I would LOVE a 396ci/425hp Corvette but good luck finding one. I take it they are still using a GROSS rating without any power steering....etc? I used a set of 67 375hp/396ci heads for my 461 build a few years ago. I think they were 2.19/1.72 valves with roughly 115ish cc chambers.........I cant remember. They were pretty damn heavy I know that....lol
If they were that bad assed a friend of my family wouldnt have swapped his out for an AL 427 that he got in the 60s. He still has the car. 1968 Convertible. Blue with white top and interior.
You speak of what they did at the track. I dont doubt that at all. They were not bone stock off the showroom floor running those numbers with stock tuning and full interiors, jack in the back, and spare tire. Thats my point.
Agreed, since I mentioned CHIPS I was speaking of a motorcycle helmet that MANY people double duty. Like you I feel sufficated at times. I went with a euro style front flip though and it actually was elongated out and down a little bit and gave me MUCH more room. I will send you a pic of it. Only thing was it wasnt SNELL rated so I didnt wear it much. It made me look my head was always down though....lol
You go to "clubs"? I havent seen girls my age (say 30ish) at any of these things or speak of going to them.
They still make Zoot Suits as well but they are more for just dressing up for parties or going on on the October day for candy and/or ladies.
03-16-2011, 12:04 PM #19
Just pointing out the potential of the 325 hp engine. In stock eliminator they are limited to stock lift cams, stock heads, stock intake and carb. Headers are allowed of course, the engine is gone through and blue printed. Basically those ET's come from chassis prep more than anything.
I went 13.30 back in the day with a 325 HP 396 69 camaro, 4 speed with only 3.31 gears. Just a cam and headers, that was it. They run decent for what they are.
The 375 HP engines are now factored at 405 HP and they typically run anywhere from 10.40's to 10.70's,,,only about 1 second quicker than the 325 HP versions.
03-16-2011, 12:10 PM #20
Again, you had cam and headers. The 3.31 gears, how rare were they?
Still would take a 60s Camaro.
The helmet thingy, quick questions. What is the "breakdown" time frame for the material they are made from? Just wonder if the tracks ever check the dates they are made/inspected.
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