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educated guess on ET's with this setup....

This is a discussion on educated guess on ET's with this setup.... within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; alright i have saved up a good chunk of cash and im making a trip to jegs to splurge. right ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member robjobiv's Avatar
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    educated guess on ET's with this setup....

    alright i have saved up a good chunk of cash and im making a trip to jegs to splurge. right now i have LTs, air lid, slp exhaust(no cats)

    here is my list for when i go to jegs......
    complete suspension upgrade:
    --adj. torque arm
    --front and rear sway bar kit
    --adj. panhard rod
    --rear control arms
    --subframe connectors

    the rest of the list are as follows:
    --high flow bellow
    --pro 5.0 shifter
    --nitto DRs
    --410 gears
    --diablo sport tuner

    im also going to purchase the Nitrous Express MAF kit and will run at most a 120 shot with a window switch.

    so anybody that has this setup or familiar with it or something similiar let me know what your running or think i might run. word around where i live has already gotten out that im dumping some cash into my car and there is already a couple other f body owners wanting to run me for some serious cash.

    also should i install a 160* thermostat with this setup? i know there is a lot of mixed opinions on this.

  2. #2
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    On the bottle I will guess upper 11's lower 12's. Probably trap around 117-118MPH.

    You will need a tune, so if you get the 160 degree thermostat just make sure the tuner has the fans kick on at 160 degrees.

  3. #3
    Junior Member robjobiv's Avatar
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    so will the diablo sport tuner be enough for this setup? also i was thinking of going with an aftermarket oil pump. would that be uneccessary and should be saved for bigger mods like heads and cam and also when i get the car dyno tuned?

  4. #4
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    How is your oil pressure at idle?

    Diablosport does minimal tuning compared to HPT or LS1Edit, but it might work for that set-up. Once you get heads and cam though, you will need a good tuner.

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    You'll be fine with a 180* thermostat and the fans tuned to come on earlier. Your car will run about 190-200* set up this way.

    Here's some more information:

    Proper Coolant Temperature and Camshaft Life!

    Have you ever tried to find what proper coolant temperature is for most automotive engines? There are a lot of people who think they know, but it is difficult to find specifics, even in textbooks. We know we want the intake air to be as cold as possible (for best power) because cold air is denser (there are more oxygen atoms per cubic foot). The coolant temperature, however, is a different matter. The internal combustion engine changes chemical energy stored in gasoline into heat energy that is focused on the piston tops. If the cylinder heads and engine block are too cold, they will absorb much of the combustion heat before it can be used to push the piston down the cylinder. If the engine gets too hot, engine lubricants can break down, as well as overheating of the intake charge can lead to detonation, etc.

    It turns out that coolant (usually a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water) has some fantastic properties that are ideal for use in engines. With a properly pressurized cooling system, coolant will not freeze until –30F, and it won’t boil until +270F (new oils don’t start to break down until well over 270F). With these characteristics, engine designers have decided that engines should operate at approximately 210-215F. Why, you ask? Well, it has to do with operating the engine at a high enough temperature to boil water out of the oil after the engine is cold started. If you have dew on the grass, it is certain that you have water in your oil, as the crankcase is open to atmospheric pressure! You can either remove the water by draining it out the bottom of the oil pan (remember the oil floats on water) or run the engine long enough and hot enough to boil the water out of the lubrication system. Years ago, coolants weren’t as sophisticated and engines were run at 165-180F, but the oil was changed every 1000 miles or so. That’s why many old timers think engines should run at 165-180F. Have you ever noticed that Ford doesn’t put temperature marks on their gauges? They just mark C for cold and H for hot and write “normal” through the center. If you hook up a scan tool to a GM, you will often find that the gauge reads much lower than the coolant temp sensor. That is because they know most drivers don’t understand how hot an engine should run.

    So what does this have to do with camshafts? Many enthusiasts erroneously think that the colder their engine runs the better! If they are not running the engine hot enough to boil the water out of the oil, the oil becomes contaminated and the lifter/cam lobe interface is the highest load point in the engine. Engines running too cool can contribute significantly to camshaft and lifter failure. Think about it: What good does it do to use the most expensive synthetic oil and then run the engine so cold that it is contaminated by water vapor??!! Another point, piston manufacturers’ piston-to-wall clearance recommendations assume you will be running the fully warmed engine at 200+F. Run the engine too cold, and you could see some scuffed pistons because the cylinders had not expanded enough to provide clearance.

    If your engine will only run its best at the drag strip with the engine at 165F, you probably have too cold of a spark plug heat range and you are probably jetted way too rich! If you keep the engine hot (not the intake charge), you will be using more of the heat energy in the gasoline to make power instead of just heating up your block. It does take “tuning know-how” to run an engine at 200-210F, but you might be surprised how well and how long it runs when you do!! One final point - running a computer managed engine at 165F compared to the factory 210F will often cost you as much as 4 MPG. The reason for this is that the computer thinks that the engine is not off the “choke cycle” and it is still putting out a rich mixture! Check the science on this and don’t pay attention to the “old wives tales” of the past. Materials and lubricants are much better and different today than they were in the past!!
    Last edited by chae; 07-13-2007 at 10:16 PM.

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