Drag Virgin

**pajeff02** · 07-01-2009, 08:59 AM

We have a stock '02 WS.6 equipped with an A4 and 3.23 gears. Mods are a lid and soon to be installed SFC's. I understand there are a ton of variables that go into getting a car to hook and achieving an optimal run. Up to this time, my only racing experience has been several runs in the passenger seat of a friend's '82 F-body.

What are some recommendations for the following:

1. Traction control on/off?

2. Launch RPM?

3. Manual or automatic shifting?

4. Shift points? (I can adjust by tuning if running in full automatic)

5. Burnout duration? (Falken Ziex ZE-512 tires)

I have the only F-body in the group and really would like to run well on the first outing. Any and all suggestions or information are greatly appreciated!

**BLKCLOUD** · 07-01-2009, 10:17 AM

1. Off

2. It's an A4 - mash the gas when the lights turn. You *might* gain a little by bringing it up on the converter if you are otherwise spinning, but pretty much just let go the brake and nail the throttle.

3. Can't help much there. Suspect let it do it itself, unless the computer shifts the thing too low.

4. Experiment.

5. Clean the tires ONLY. Long burnouts on hard radials is a waste. While we're at it, drive AROUND the burnout box.

Good luck.
Bob

**666ws6** · 07-01-2009, 10:22 AM

Here are my learnings over the years with an A4 LS1....

1. Traction control on/off? OFF, you need to be in control. The TCS will throttle you down too much.

2. Launch RPM? If your tires are at say 22-24lbs, I'd say hover around 2100 rpm. Don't floor it out of the gate though. It'll take you some time to learn just how much throttle to put into it to make sure you hook well.

3. Manual or automatic shifting? Let the computer handle the shifting.

4. Shift points? (I can adjust by tuning if running in full automatic). Don't worry about this until you get a few more mods and more power.

5. Burnout duration? (Falken Ziex ZE-512 tires). Do not go into the water. Go around. Just quickly smoke your tires to clean them off. You don't need to heat up street tires.

As for general suggestions, go practice! Find a street in the middle of nowhere and start to learn just how much throttle to launch with without totally smoking your tires. No need to do full runs, just learn how to launch cleanly.

Oh, and check out how the tree works at your track. Some give you advice on just when to hit it, so you get a good 60' time. If you wait to you see green, you're too slow!

**pajeff02** · 07-01-2009, 05:36 PM

Thank you for the info guys. I did forget to ask about tire pressure so I am glad it was mentioned. I am really looking forward to some track runs.

**67CamaroRSSS** · 07-03-2009, 03:23 PM

Only thing I will add is while doing the burnout (dry not wet) leave the tranny in OD and let it shift to 2nd. By then the tires will be slightly smoking (check in the side mirror). This will be enough. Heating these tires (I have the same tires) up too much makes them greasy. Heating them just a bit works best. I've cut consistant 1.9x 60 foot times with the stockers but I have to pedal it as I have a 3400 stall.

Up the front tire pressure to about 45psi to lower the rolling resistance.

Also, leave it in OD while you drive and let the tranny shift for itself. This is better for the drums and clutches.

FWIW: I cut 1.6x 60 foot times with MT ET Streets.

**pajeff02** · 07-03-2009, 05:51 PM

Originally Posted by 67CamaroRSSS

FWIW: I cut 1.6x 60 foot times with MT ET Streets.

Stock 10 bolt? Gear ratio?

**67CamaroRSSS** · 07-03-2009, 06:46 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Stock 10 bolt? Gear ratio?

Rebuilt 10-bolt with a Torsen and 3.73's. As stated I have a 3400 stall torque converter with a reworked tranny. I also have a Midwest Chassis adjustable torque arm and welded in sub frame connectors.

**PAT-LS101** · 07-04-2009, 10:12 AM

This is what worked for me...

Go around the water. Do a quick burnout just to clean the tires.
Pull up to the line. Put it in D turn ASR off stall it to 1000-1200 rpm's(it helped me)
When 2nd yellow light comes on go 1/4 throttle then, when you feel it hook go half then full. I have traction issues and that always seems to work for me.

Again, thats just my personal experience. And, stalling it did pick me up a little better time(less than a 10th).

**iwannagofast** · 07-04-2009, 08:06 PM

our track hooks very nice...i have the stock 3.23's and usually dont even chirp the tires off the line, nitto555. i pull 1.9-2.0 with my stock ws6

**pajeff02** · 11-07-2009, 07:39 PM

Finally made it to the track today! It was the last weekend of the season at Beaver Springs and they hosted an all day test and tune. First, here are some pics of the day... I went down with two friends, one with his '70 Dart packing a Magnum 360, backed by a 727 and 4.10's; the other an '07 Mustang GT, 4.6 with cold air induction, aftermarket TB, manual trans, and boxed control arms:

Again, our car is an A4, running Falken Ziex tires, and the only mods are 2 point SFC's, lid, Magnaflow catback and a 180 degree stat. I have not yet installed the UMI rear suspension pieces, so everything in the back is stock.

I lined up against a Challenger R/T for the first run and with almost identical reaction times ran a 13.485 at 105.59 to his 14.290 at 101.82. After a few runs, I dropped the air pressure down in the rear tires and played with my launch. Per the advice posted, I ran the car with traction control off and allowed the transmission to shift itself.

Best time of the day was a 13.395 at 106.05 mph and a 2.149 60'.

Best MPH of the day was a 13.505 at 106.25 mph and a 2.217 60'

My friend had never operated my camera before, so the video is not the best. An ATV made a solo run right before and went all the way to the end of the track before turning off, so we were held up for just a bit before staging. This is the last run of the day and netted a 13.496 at 105.65 mph and a 2.155 60':

-----------------------------------------------

Forgot to mention --

The Dart ran a best of a 13.76 at 101.85 mph and the Mustang GT had a 13.995 at 103.61 mph.

**PAT-LS101** · 11-09-2009, 12:31 PM

Good times!

**Mr. Luos** · 11-09-2009, 12:36 PM

By quick burnout....these guys mean turn the tires over once or twice. No need for more than that.
Street tires actually get a little slicker when hot.

**pajeff02** · 11-09-2009, 06:08 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

By quick burnout....these guys mean turn the tires over once or twice. No need for more than that.
Street tires actually get a little slicker when hot.

I actually avoided the burnout -- 2 hours from home and slightly paranoid about the 10 bolt popping. I figured a little bit of slip at the line (so long as it was not wheel hopping) would not be a bad thing.

My goal was to get some experience and base line the car while it is still mostly stock. The car ran super consistent so now I have something to gauge future mods by.

Did you first race your car when it was still semi-stock?

**Mr. Luos** · 11-09-2009, 06:11 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I actually avoided the burnout -- 2 hours from home and slightly paranoid about the 10 bolt popping. I figured a little bit of slip at the line (so long as it was not wheel hopping) would not be a bad thing.

My goal was to get some experience and base line the car while it is still mostly stock. The car ran super consistent so now I have something to gauge future mods by.

Did you first race your car when it was still semi-stock?

I was TERRIBLE.

Burnouts aren't going to pop the 10 bolt. Hooking will. You will be fine on street tires and auto.

**pajeff02** · 11-09-2009, 06:22 PM

This may be a silly question -- after the second beam is broke and the car is staged, what actually determines your R/T? Is it the second beam being re-established as the car launches, or is there a third beam slightly forward of the second staging beam?

**Mr. Luos** · 11-09-2009, 06:26 PM

It is from the time the light goes green to the time the car leaves. Not sure which beams it uses.

Reaction time doesn't count towards the ET if it is a test night.

**blackcar** · 11-09-2009, 07:43 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

This may be a silly question -- after the second beam is broke and the car is staged, what actually determines your R/T? Is it the second beam being re-established as the car launches, or is there a third beam slightly forward of the second staging beam?

I may be wrong but:

There are 3 lights
1st pre-stage
2nd stage
3rd foul/reaction time.

Some people like to stage light (just barely break the 2nd light). If you do this you can leave a hair sooner and you won't break the foul light. Kind of gives you a running head start.

other people like to stage heavy. almost breaking the foul light. This give you a sitting head start.

ex. Car 1 stages light, car 2 stages heavy.
Before the lights start car 2 is an inch or so in front of car 1 but no foul. BUT Car 1 can leave a fraction of a second sooner because it will have to travel farther forward to get to the foul line.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 11-09-2009, 08:08 PM

Congrats Jeff. Those are some very nice times for your car being pretty much stock and your first time out. Glad to see you had a lot of fun.

**EVIL-LS1** · 11-10-2009, 07:52 PM

When I go to the track I leave on the last yellow comes on and I get decent RT times. but sometimes I do redlight. But its test n tune so a redlight dont hurt you.

My best 60ft is a 1.990 and my best RT is .502

1.OFF
2.I leave on Idle it runs its best. Floor it when I see the last yellow comes on.
3.Leave it in OD and let the computer do its job..
4.I dont have a tuner so I leave them where it shift at.
5. Go around the water box and just clean them off.

The lights are like this.
Pre Stage
Stage
Yellow
yellow
Yellow
Green
Red

**pajeff02** · 11-11-2009, 04:30 AM

Originally Posted by 1Bad97Ram

When I go to the track I leave on the last yellow comes on and I get decent RT times. but sometimes I do redlight. But its test n tune so a redlight dont hurt you.

My best 60ft is a 1.990 and my best RT is .502

1.OFF
2.I leave on Idle it runs its best. Floor it when I see the last yellow comes on.
3.Leave it in OD and let the computer do its job..
4.I dont have a tuner so I leave them where it shift at.
5. Go around the water box and just clean them off.

The lights are like this.
Pre Stage
Stage
Yellow
yellow
Yellow
Green
Red

My reaction times were pretty sad all considered so that is something I'll need to work on next time. That's why I asked about the staging beams, just trying to get it set in my head what is actually happening with the timing lights as the car is lauched. I think I read somewhere that the first and second staging lights are 7 inches apart.