Could I Be Doing Something Wrong?
This is a discussion on Could I Be Doing Something Wrong? within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; Ok so i went to the track 7/8/11 at US-131 Motor Sports Park in Michigan! my car ran a 13.199 ...
07-12-2011, 08:07 PM #1
Could I Be Doing Something Wrong?
Ok so i went to the track 7/8/11 at US-131 Motor Sports Park in Michigan! my car ran a 13.199 with all the mods in my sig at 105.65mph and it was 65*F at the time of the run... i feel that it should of been faster but idk... i was stalling right around 1500rpm... and didnt spin out at all on 255's(street tires)...my reaction was .1882 and the 60ft was 2.056? any ideas or is that normal? and i ran 110 octane on 1/8th tank of gas
ok realized that my sig is gone i think so i have LT headers, ORY-pipe Frost tune, egr/air delete, lid, free-mods, stock 3.23's
Last edited by My00Z28; 07-12-2011 at 08:12 PM.
07-12-2011, 08:56 PM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- San Diego, CA
2002 Z28 A4 NBM
- Sadly now demodded :(
Not bad times. You get that 60' down some it you might hit 12's.
You are letting the PCM do the shifting, yes? Leave it in OD. The PCM is faster than you are and it doesn't miss.
Couple of things: Unless you are able to tune the car while at the track (bump up timing, data log and adjust fuel tables for F/A ratio, stuff like that) then your wasting $$$ buying that expensive hi octane gas. And more gas in the ass will add ballast as these cars have been light in the rear since forever. I usually run with between 1/2-3/4 tank.
Only do a burnout till you just see smoke coming off the tires. Any more than that and they'll get greasy. Go a bit higher on the stall, say 1800.
And the quickest way to knock 1/2 second off your car is with a hi stall TC, say 3400 or so. You'll need tranny mods to support that properly (cooler and internal mods such as deleting TM and installing a shift kit).
Last edited by 67CamaroRSSS; 07-12-2011 at 08:58 PM.67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...
2005 Corvette LS2/M6 Magnetic Red Metallic (What else would it be?) w/ Cashmere interior
2002 Z28: NBM/Tan, MTI smooth lid, smooth bellows, !AIR, !cats, 1-3/4" QTP SS LT's, 2-1/2" TD's with X-pipe, MagnaFlows dumped at axle, custom welded SFC's, MidWest Chassis body mount adjustable T/A, 3400 stall, 3.23 gears (was 2.73). Tuned: 343rwhp/357rwt (before TD's). Best: 12.559 @ 108+, 1.73 60' @ 3500' DA w/MT ET Street DR's.
Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!
07-12-2011, 09:02 PM #3
So leaving it in Drive is better than manualy shifting it? i guess ill have to try that!!! and ill stay away from 110 also cause i could tell i wasnt burning it fully... and i have a stock stall so i cant get above 1500rpm... and i was hooking perfect just a slight chirp off the line with the temp dropped... i plan to do a stall and others but i was hopping to be in the high 12's with what i got done to it now...SLP lid w/K&N Filter, Free-Mods, LT-Headers, ORY-Pipe, V-Force Muffler, Frost Tune, AIR/EGR Delete, SFCs, Ported TB
My00Z28-----2000/Z28--------2.0331---8.4118 @ 86.83----12.9856 @ 107.15----NA------10/11
07-12-2011, 11:48 PM #4
those aren't bad times really IMO for your mods....basically headers and a tune. Some cars may see 12's with that and I would bet your car with drag radials would have a chance at it. Get that 60' to a 1.9 and that will put you in the 12's. Get a stall and you'll be well into the 12's most likely. Don't go by everything you read either.....every car is a little different and every track is a little different. You'll read all day long about people that took an a4 out bone stock and ran 12's with it. I found it too be much harder than that to get my car into the 12's. Don't internet race it....just work with what you have. Get a stall.
07-13-2011, 12:20 AM #5
Thats right in the ballpark for your mods.
Mines very similar in mods and times.2010 Camaro SIM 2SS/RS A6
1999 TA A4 NBM
12.265 at 110.52mph
07-13-2011, 03:15 AM #6
alright ya i saw people saying their car stock was running low 13's and mine ran a 13.6 stock and with the headers and tune it ran a 13.1 i feel that it will go faster just that wasn't the night i guess... and wouldn't radials be over kill because i'm not having any kinda traction problem at all i could barely get the tires to chirp of the line...
07-13-2011, 05:04 AM #7
With just headers and a tune basically, I think your car is about spot on for ET and MPH. Looks like it's running fine.
When my auto was just headers and a tune, it ran much like yours. I also had stock 3.23 gears. Floor it and it wouldn't even spin the tires on a starting line that was prepped well, run about a 2.1 60 foot time, and went 13.20's at 106 mph all day long.
I put a stall in it and it went 12.76 at 107 mph, with no other changes and still on the stock rubber.
Get a stall in that thing and see what happens. You'll have a blast with it then.
The converter made 12's a piece of cake.
07-13-2011, 06:17 AM #8
You should be able to cut the 60' down by a tenth and youll get a 12.9 pass out of it. Get a 4000 stall and some dr's and run low 12's all day
07-13-2011, 08:56 AM #9
ok thanks for all the replies because iv read people running low 13's stock and i got a friend that has an 01 SS A4 he says runs 13.2's all it has is a cat back and lid...
07-13-2011, 11:03 AM #10
07-13-2011, 11:04 AM #11
Well, to be perfectly honest,,,,low 13's bone stock are few and far between. For starters, there aren't many 4th gens left that are truely bone stock.
Then you have track advantage. People close to the ocean (sea level) will run faster than others further inland. That's why you almost always see track testing for magazines at places like Atco or Gainsville. The cars will automatically be 2-3 tenths faster and look good in print. But it's not reality for most people around the country.
For a true comparison you would have to use a correction factor for the conditions you are running in. Without it, times will be all over the place, and ET's change by the hour. If you want to compare times without a correction factor, then keeping track of DA conditions and comparing those also would be the only accurate way. Otherwise it's all just "talk".
For the record, that same car I mentioned above with headers and a tune running 13.20's at 106,,,,,,,,when bone stock (paper filter and all) it only went 13.70 at 102 mph under nearly the same DA conditions.
07-13-2011, 11:12 AM #12
Tom is right, your MPH is there for an easy 12 second pass. The problem is the car not being setup properly to take advantage of the high end HP it is making. Things like gears, suspension, converters etc...to exploit it's full potential.
It's hard to get the 60 foot down with the stock converter when it's already dead hooking. I've been there, mine did the same thing. Floor it and go on stock rubber and good track prep, a dummy could have driven mine. The stock converter was just too tight, and these LS1 engines don't make alot of steam until you get up closer to 4,000 rpm. They are a bit sluggish down low. Just not an optimum power curve for a tight converter.
07-13-2011, 08:58 PM #13
I would not do a 4000 converter without cam and gears. I was running 12.5's with headers, 3500 converter and ET Streets. I got down to 12.1 and 12.0 with 3.73's. The intake is cheap but will not take the time off your 60". A converter will help,gears will help,DR's will help. A 4000 converter on stock 3.23's and stock cam IMO is a waste. Like all have said here your times are correct for the mods you have. IMO if you're not trying for stock 12's add a converter and get there easy. Again headers,converter,streets and I ran 12.5's.
07-13-2011, 09:25 PM #14
07-14-2011, 07:52 AM #15
That's where things get tricky. A good converter is made specifically for the application at hand. Generally custom built to a specific engine displacement, rear gear, weight of vehicle, camshaft chosen, etc....
If any one of those variables are changed, it changes the requirement of the converter.
07-14-2011, 09:13 PM #16
i search 4000 stall in stock ls1 on Google and it comes up with many post and from all the post i read people say the wish they went 4000 or and glad they did.... they say they are very street-able and with the proper tune it shouldn't be very noticeable till i go WOT
07-15-2011, 04:00 AM #17
Youll need a tranny cooler to
07-15-2011, 09:06 AM #18
4,000 isn't all that bad to drive around. It really depends on the manufacture too. You'll get all kinds of different comments from various users, the problem though is that alot of the time they are different brands.
Some of these converter companies have a different approach as to how they build these converters, fin pitch, stators, and more. These variances will make the converter drive around a little differently, flash differently, some drive tight, some loose. Even if they all say they are a "4,000" stall.
I can give an example of driving loose and tight with 2 of my own cars using 2 different brand converters.
My stock 02 SS, I used a 3400 stall from Fuddle, with a 2.1 STR, stock 3.23 gears. This converter drove around a little loose for a mild 3400 rating. That's my feeling on it. Wasn't a bad thing though, the car loved it. Putting more rear gear in the car would have tightened the converter up a tad.
My 454 chevelle, makes 600/600+ Hp and TQ and I use a Coan converter in that car that is rated at 36-3800. Conventional thinking would tell you, since it's a higher stall than the camaro, and it's behind an engine making twice the power, that it would drive around even looser.
That's not the case. This Coan converter is one of the best driving converters I've ever had. Drives around nice and tight, doesn't flash too much at light throttle, even climbing alot of the mountains around here. This keeps trans temps down. But when you really squeeze the throttle and get after it,,,it jumps to nearly 4,000 rpm right off the bat.
That's what a well built converter is supposed to do.
An LS1 needs a pretty loose converter. Even a stock engine. They don't make much torque until you start getting up into the 3500 range or more.
07-15-2011, 10:38 AM #19
thanks for the info really helps a lot
ya im planning on a nice big tranny cooler was thinking of getting a deep tranny pan and a yank ss4000.... people around here in Lima, ohio and even back home say its going to be way to big of a stall... but i dont think they realize how a stall really works for these cars... they make their power in high rpm range and for city driving people say they jump to 18-1900 rpm and start moving... and you can adjust them to lock up when ever you want for highway driving and so on correct?
07-15-2011, 01:48 PM #20
Yes they still lock up like a stock converter. So you get the best of both worlds. Stock tune locks it at 38 mph with light throttle and in 4th gear, but you can change that to what ever you need.
My 3400 stall in the 02 camaro would jump to 18-1900 with relatively light throttle application from a stop. I could easily make it run 22-2300 from a stop and going through the gears with maybe 1/4 pedal.
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