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Cage/roll bar shopping. Want to run fast and safe.

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  1. #1
    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    2002 z28 camaro

    Cage/roll bar shopping. Want to run fast and safe.

    It's getting closer and closer to me needing a cage/roll bar. I know there are a lot of different options out there.

    For the "best" projected times I want to run is 10.xx I will only be needing a 6 point roll bar. According to NHRA rules a NON CONVERTIBLE car only needs a 6 point roll bar up to 10.00. Once you go faster you will need a full cage.



    To back up what I just said I found this:
    When do I need a roll bar or roll cage, and what should it look like?
    A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.49 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.49. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:
    NRHA Roll Bar

    If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:
    NRHA Roll Bar
    The roll cage of any vehicle running 9.99 or quicker, or 135 mph or faster, must also be certified by NHRA every 3 years, and have a serialized sticker affixed prior to participation.

    So that leaves me with some options to look into.

    The first choice is chromoley or mild steel. Here is my breakdown on the difference between the two:

    Chromoley:
    Lighter - 20 lbs lighter on average
    More Expensive - $200 + difference
    Must be tig welded - (I don't have one nor the skill if borrowed, have to pay for install)

    Mild Steel
    Heavier
    Cheaper
    I can mig it in myself and save on the install.


    Now to the options of a roll bar. The only ones that I see are the swingouts. I will be adding to this thread as time goes on and I find more research.

    Mod's what are the rules with posting links up to products?

  2. #2
    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    RED, BLACK
    2001 WS6, 1998 TA

    Get a Wolfe Racecraft 6 point. They have both boltins and weldins, prewelded and weld yourself kits. With and without swingouts. I have one of each. A weldin without swingouts in my blackbird and a boltin with swingouts in my red bird. If your going to drive on the street and carry passengers the swingouts are the way to go.
    Last edited by Frozen WS6; 03-27-2011 at 08:47 PM.
    2001 WS6 TA Red. Stock, 6 spd, LS7 clutch, Catback, Harris Nitrous Kit, Custom Painted Flames, Wolfe 6 point rollbar.
    1998 TA Black. 408, t350, nitro daves plate w/dedicated fuel cell, mini tubbed, 30" dr's. 9.75 @136mph on a small shot. Fastest LSX in Alaska, Pump gas, never trailered street car.
    2007 TBSS. Silver, Factory Stock

  3. #3
    Rockin the Ruckus! 02Sweet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen WS6 View Post
    Get a Wolfe Racecraft 6 point. They have both boltins and weldins, prewelded and weld yourself kits. With and without swingouts. I have one of each. A weldin without swingouts in my blackbird and a boltin with swingouts in my red bird. If your going to drive on the street and carry passengers the swingouts are the way to go.
    The bolt in is out of the question for me due to cost and extra weight.

    For the weldin did you install it? If so how hard was it? Did you get it jig notched?

  4. #4
    Senior Member bills98ta's Avatar
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    1998 Trans Am

    Mine was a Summit pre-notched, and had to do a lot of grinding for tight fitments before I could weld it in.

  5. #5
    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    Mine (for the black car) was put in before they shipped the car by the old owner that builds 8 and 9 street cars. I can weld but wouldn't have been happy with my welds. Safety is not something I really wanted to have to second guess when going mid 9's.
    Notched will be the easiest and best way to go. From what I've seen Wolfe is one of the top and better fitting ones out there. There is no weight difference in the mild steel weld vs bolt in with Wolfe. Check out there website.
    Last edited by Frozen WS6; 03-28-2011 at 06:07 AM.

  6. #6
    Boosted Fredneck Mark98SS's Avatar
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    I'm with Frozen WS6 on this very critical safety mod. Unless you are very very good at welding have a pro do it. You will find it cheaper in the end to pay a chassis guy to fab it & weld it than to buy a kit & have it installed by said chassis guy.

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