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Building a drag race only F-Body, Engine Selection

This is a discussion on Building a drag race only F-Body, Engine Selection within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; will a carb clear the firewall?...

  1. #21
    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    2001 Camaro Z28, Bolt-Ons

    will a carb clear the firewall?

  2. #22
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    An LQ4 could be used with FI for sure. Lots of people do it. Personally, It worked well for me becuase of my tiny CC chmabers (56cc). Im at about 11.0/1. I have not heard too much on the bottom end, but I would assume it is up to par with the late LS1's. Mine is a 2005.

    My LQ4 made a lowly 373RWHP and 409 RWTQ on a STOCK LS1 intake and throttle body. After going to a FAST 92/92 im sure it jumped 20 HP roughly and some torque. My real power is laying in my 230/236 cam. Thats probably 50 RWHP coming from stock cam.

    If you gutted that car, seeing it is a track car... you could have a really fast NA car. If I was going the cheap route I would throw a set of ARP 2000 rod bolts down under and spray it till she blew. If its only 1/4 1/8 mile bet you would get plenty of spray time properly set up.

  3. #23
    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    Well, I think if I start modifying the bottom end at all, I'd just get a complete forged bottom end and run the nastiest cam I could find for E85 fuel. The thing is, N/A power seems so much more expensive than Forced Induction.. Feel free guys to chime in.....

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by first01SS View Post
    Since I'll be running in the 1/4 and 1/8 mile, top end really isn't that important. I'd say 800+ RWHP/800 Torque would be okay; i may be aiming for too much hp but i would like to see mid 5's in the 1/8 and mid to high 7's in the 1/4.

    Since you don't have a lot of money you won't be seeing those numbers. Like others have said you will need somewhere aroudn 1200hp to run those numbers. You need a high boost turbo, mega nitro motor or huge big block to see 7s. Not to mention the $$$ for a chassis that will hook. The guys running those numbers at MIR in the real street class have close to a 100k or more invested in their cars . I would think a realistic goal on somewhat of a budget would be high 9s. If you really need to go faster you might want to consider buying a certified roller and going from there.

  5. #25
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    69 hugger orange
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    Quote Originally Posted by first01SS View Post
    Yeah, i think Nitrous may be the ticket. 300 Shot may be more realistic. What about using a big block carb motor? Do you think that may be more cost effective than running an LSx based motor?
    my buddy has a nice 454 big block and powerglide for sale right now will definitely make the kinda power you are looking for and handle the bottle

    motor runs great he had it in his 67 camaro and pulled it out to redo the car and now he is fixing too be out of work so he needs the money

    he only wants 4500 for the setup

    by the way im pretty sure you have to be in the 4's in the 1/8th to run 7s in the 1/4

    shoot me a pm if interested

  6. #26
    Senior Member BLKCLOUD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by first01SS View Post
    I'm quite the novice. I am however very creative in finding solutions to problems. So hopefully I am on the right course with this LQ4 idea.
    My friend, if you're really a novice, then start MUCH lower than a goal of 800+ HP and 7 second 1/4 miles (gonna take WAY more than 800 HP to go 7's)!

    Do the normal stuff and get the car into the 11's. Then some motor work and go 10's. All the while, learn the chassis, tuning, how the car reacts and works, etc. Once you're comfortable with those times, THEN step up to forced induction and start going quicker.

    I'm not familier with the LQ4, but if it has the same cast pistons and rods as most other LS engines, then it will not live long under any significant boost.

    Good luck.

  7. #27
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    If you are looking for cheap then you can't go wrong with a boosted and or sprayed as stated the LQ4 or even cheaper the 5.3. Both are great motors and can be easily found for around 500-700 easily. Have seen plenty 5.3's running in the 9's. I'll try and find the article were A made plenty of passed on a stock 6.0 and was running in the low 8's. So both are extremely durable even on stock internals. Believe both are good for 700-850 stock.

  8. #28
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    if you dont have a lot of cash and just cant do it all right the 1st time i say sell the car you have now and go get your self a used race car that is all there. you will have over 20,000 in a car to have 600 hp or over and have a car that will not brake all the time. you will have a lot in the suspenson to just to get it all to the ground. but thats just me
    "The Camaro SS looks like it could kick your ass. The Trans Am WS6 looks like its on its way over to do it."

    treat stressful situation like a dog. if you can't eat or hump it, then piss on it and walk away.

    keep your foot in it,till you see god

  9. #29
    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by first01SS View Post
    will a carb clear the firewall?
    Yes, but you will have to cut the cowl

  10. #30
    Junior Member jakesz28's Avatar
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    teal
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    I would agree a cheap build is a 5.3 with a turbo or for a few dollars more you can get a 6.0L. I'm still runny a LT1 but the LSx heads are more capable then the 23* stuff.

  11. #31
    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    Yeah, I got a 6L bare block over this week; I plan on building a forged stroker with as much boost as physics will allow :-)

  12. #32
    Junior Member jakesz28's Avatar
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    A friend of mine pushed a stock 5.3 to 15lbs on pump gas. Was trapping 132 on 10 lbs.

  13. #33
    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by first01SS View Post
    Yeah, I got a 6L bare block over this week; I plan on building a forged stroker with as much boost as physics will allow :-)
    congrats man, now the real spending starts! What type of FI are you planning?

  14. #34
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    Twin turbos by garrett. Still trying to figure out the largest injectors I can use with stock PCM...

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    Current best: 10.60/126.8
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    As others have said, it takes ALOT of time and money to run 7's. Look at an initial investment of around 100k, plus all the maintenance afterwards, LOL. Better budget in for a new motor after every 30 passes or so. Since you are somewhat a newb, I'd think a 11 second car would be plenty fast. Heck even 10 second cars scare most people. Then if you decided you want more, go from there. I've seen guys get big dreams and build 8 second cars only to have to let their cars sit, because they were either too scared to drive it, or couldn't afford to maintain it, or both. Then, you end up having a car that just sits thats now worth less than half of what you have invested in it.

    In other words, be careful what you wish for, you just may get it...LOL

  16. #36
    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    that is probablly the best advice I've heard since I've been in ls1.com. How about I pull my head out of the clouds, an start dreaming long term. What's a good strategy on building a car that I can re-use the majority of the parts, and build up to a faster car? (if that question makes sense)

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by first01SS View Post
    that is probablly the best advice I've heard since I've been in ls1.com. How about I pull my head out of the clouds, an start dreaming long term. What's a good strategy on building a car that I can re-use the majority of the parts, and build up to a faster car? (if that question makes sense)
    These LS1 cars run great with just bolt-ons and a cam. I'd start out with a 3000-3500 stall, (or if you have a six speed, keep that), headers, cam. That should get you a mid to high 11 car with not a whole lot invested.

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    Current best: 10.60/126.8
    1998 Pontiac TA WS6

    I think this would be a good cam for you:

    99-TR230/236-112 Thunder Racing Custom Camshaft
    "Split Pattern" - 230/236 .592/.602 112 LSA 2400-6800 RPM Power Band. Excellent mid-range & high RPM power. 3200+ stall, 3.42+ gear, computer tuning required. Due to the fast ramp rate of this camshaft, the use of 1.8 rockers is not recommended.

    These are sold by "Fast Toys" so I don't think I'm stepping on sponsors toes here.

    But this cam is pretty aggressive, but still streetable. It would also make good power on a "race" motor if you went that route later.

  19. #39
    Member first01SS's Avatar
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    Remember, I have a 97 v6 body, no engine. At this point, the sky is the limit on selecting or building an engine. Would a crate motor be a better start?

  20. #40
    Member 408WS6's Avatar
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    Current best: 10.60/126.8
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    Quote Originally Posted by first01SS View Post
    Remember, I have a 97 v6 body, no engine. At this point, the sky is the limit on selecting or building an engine. Would a crate motor be a better start?
    Yea, you can do what I did and get you a crate 408 built. Then you could always add nitrous later. One with forged internals generally can hold about 300 shot of nitrous provided the rings are gapped correctly.

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