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Bending wheel studs?

This is a discussion on Bending wheel studs? within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; So in september i went to the dragstrip with my mickey et streets mounted on v6 camaro steel wheels and ...

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    Bending wheel studs?

    So in september i went to the dragstrip with my mickey et streets mounted on v6 camaro steel wheels and bent all the wheel studs on the drivers side of my s60 rear that had 12 mm studs, so i upgrade to 1/2 studs and just went this past weekend and bent them again, Strange tells me i can't use the steel wheels with my stock lugs and that i need to get new wheels and shank lugs? I don't get why my header/tune car is doing this? Has anyone else here ran drag radials on steel wheels? I have saw other cars use them with no problem, and my best 60 foot was a 1.9. Just sick of wasting money to get 2 runs in at track

    2002 Camaro SS
    SLP Long Tubes
    S60 Rear 4:30 gears
    Tuned by Janetty Racing Enterprises

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Where did you find factory steel 4th gen wheels?

    As far as I know all 4th gens had aluminum rims.

    Maybe the rims your using aren't hubcentric.

    Get yourself some factory 16" aluminum rims and remount your tires they are cheap and plentiful.

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    They are from a v6 with hubcaps, and the hole in the middle of the wheels do fit snug, it doesnt make sense, wouldnt a thin steel wheel that has the lug tightened down closer to the base of the stud be better than a thicker aluminum wheel?

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    I have 2-1/2" Moser studs installed at all four corners on our car. With the stock WS.6 rims I use the stock conical lug nuts and with my Bogarts I have shank style lug nuts. The car launches hard on Hoosier QTP's and I have never bent a stud. Also, they are still the 12.5 mm studs and were not upgraded to 1/2" like yours. I have heard of guys bending or breaking studs, but not to the degree you are experiencing. Get some ARP's and you'll probably be fine. I went with Moser as ARP was "out of stock" when I needed mine.

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I have 2-1/2" Moser studs installed at all four corners on our car. With the stock WS.6 rims I use the stock conical lug nuts and with my Bogarts I have shank style lug nuts. The car launches hard on Hoosier QTP's and I have never bent a stud. Also, they are still the 12.5 mm studs and were not upgraded to 1/2" like yours. I have heard of guys bending or breaking studs, but not to the degree you are experiencing. Get some ARP's and you'll probably be fine. I went with Moser as ARP was "out of stock" when I needed mine.

    Have you ever raced it with a sticky tire on the stock rims? or just the bogarts with shank lugs? and the first studs were the strange 12mm studs that came in my s60 rear and the 1/2 ones i just bent were moroso studs

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawn3091 View Post
    Have you ever raced it with a sticky tire on the stock rims? or just the bogarts with shank lugs? and the first studs were the strange 12mm studs that came in my s60 rear and the 1/2 ones i just bent were moroso studs
    I have made over 150 passes on my car with a sticky tire in the last 2 years,255/60/16 Hoosier DR's on base 16x8 Aluminum rims and 275/40/17 MT DR's on Vette wagon wheels.

    Stock rearend,stock studs,the car had 120,000miles when I bought it and has 129,500 now.
    2010 Camaro SIM 2SS/RS A6
    1999 TA A4 NBM
    12.265 at 110.52mph

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    Quote Originally Posted by shawn3091 View Post
    Have you ever raced it with a sticky tire on the stock rims? or just the bogarts with shank lugs? and the first studs were the strange 12mm studs that came in my s60 rear and the 1/2 ones i just bent were moroso studs

    Raced it with street tires initially - so no, I haven't had a sticky tire on it with conical lug nuts. What are you torqueing the nuts to?

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by transamtom View Post
    I have made over 150 passes on my car with a sticky tire in the last 2 years,255/60/16 Hoosier DR's on base 16x8 Aluminum rims and 275/40/17 MT DR's on Vette wagon wheels.

    Stock rearend,stock studs,the car had 120,000miles when I bought it and has 129,500 now.
    I guess i should be ok with a set of stock aluminum wheels then

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Raced it with street tires initially - so no, I haven't had a sticky tire on it with conical lug nuts. What are you torqueing the nuts to?
    100

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawn3091 View Post
    So in september i went to the dragstrip with my mickey et streets mounted on v6 camaro steel wheels and bent all the wheel studs on the drivers side of my s60 rear that had 12 mm studs, so i upgrade to 1/2 studs and just went this past weekend and bent them again, Strange tells me i can't use the steel wheels with my stock lugs and that i need to get new wheels and shank lugs? I don't get why my header/tune car is doing this? Has anyone else here ran drag radials on steel wheels? I have saw other cars use them with no problem, and my best 60 foot was a 1.9. Just sick of wasting money to get 2 runs in at track
    I have run (and still do) sticky tires on steel wheels for 30+ years and never an issue, and use the stock connical nuts as well. As a matter of fact, that was the loop hole per NHRA rules which is why I've done this.

    You can run a slick on stock wheel studs if it's mounted on a steel wheel. If you mount the slick on an aluminum wheel however, it requires longer studs per rules. I never wanted to run longer studs on the classic cars (and still don't) because it caused issues in some cases, stock wheels or hubcaps wouldn't go back on, etc...

    This was back in the day when drag radials weren't invented yet. In the 80's when drag radials hit the scene, you could run those on an aluminum wheel without the need for a longer stud per NHRA rules.

    All these years on steel wheels and I've never bent a stock wheel stud and they are only 7/16" maybe?. They will however shave off if you do something silly, like pop the clutch while the car is still rolling backwards. That's a no no.

    If you are bending 1/2" studs with a relatively stock 4th gen that shouldn't weigh more than 36-3700 lbs. then you have some other strange issue going on. Probably has something to do with an improper lug nut or something along those lines.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I will add that I always go back after 2-3 passes and retorque the connical lug nuts on the rear. I do this because I've found that running the steel wheels, and all that jerking around from hard launches tends to wollow out the lug nut holes in the wheels, so you have to keep an eye on them, and check/retighten them frequently. Usually after a season or two of racing on the steel wheels, I'd replace the steel wheels with new ones, because the lug nut holes get to the point that the connical nut starts to get recessed too far into the wheel, and I deem that unsafe for hard launches on sticky tires.

    Wheels are still usable with stock rubber, and an oversized lug nut, or send the wheels out for repair.

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    With the first studs i ran the original lugnuts that came on my car and of course a new set of lugs the next time because i went to 1/2. But my wheels came off a v6 so they were never used for racing before, but probably do have over 100,000 miles on them so i dont know whats going on

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    And i bend them on second run, so i never get a chance to retorque, and they were still tight on the wheel taking them off even though the studs were bent

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    I tightened the lugs with a cordless impact with a torque stick on it, maybe thats my problem, im going to check the torque on the side that didnt bend tonight

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shawn3091 View Post
    I tightened the lugs with a cordless impact with a torque stick on it, maybe thats my problem, im going to check the torque on the side that didnt bend tonight
    I use my cordless impact to zip them off and zip them on but I always use a 1/2" click torque wrench to get them to 100lb ft.

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    +1 Use a real torque wrench.

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    well I checked the nuts on the side that didn't bend with torque wrench and they were only torqued to about 85 instead of 100 so that my have been a problem, and I wonder if it wouldn't hurt to go more than 100 with them since they are 1/2 studs?

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    Waiting on the Tree transamtom's Avatar
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    My concern with going over 100lb ft would be bolt stretch which could cause them to shear.

    Stick with the factory spec.

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    ^^ Agree. I only torque my track wheels to 80 ft.lbs. with the shank style lug nuts, but I check them after a few runs and have never had an issue. I was concerned with gouging my Bogarts or collapsing the washers by tightening them too much.

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    Junior Member shawn3091's Avatar
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    Well i guess i can try 100 with torque wrench next time and hope that was my problem but im not sure

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