60' time

**bad idea** · 06-01-2014, 04:31 AM

I am averaging a 2.1 60' time, I am clueless on how to get it down. I have an 02 Z28 6 speed w/ 275/45r17 NT05Rs, long tube headers, ory w/ 3" exhaust, air lid, Monster stage 2 clutch, and tick master cylinder. I air the tires down to 18-20 psi, good 3 second burnout, stage car at 3k rpms and slowly release the clutch as I floor the gas. The car stumbles and hesitates coming off the line. I assume I need to leave harder, but unsure of how to go about that. I drive the car to the track and would like to drive it home.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-01-2014, 08:04 AM

Never used the NT05's, but Nitto tires in general suck at the track. With that said, you should still be in at least the 1.8x range, even with those tires. Try increasing your RPM's slightly to see where the car likes it. Are you experiencing any wheel hop on launch? Are the tires grabbing or spinning?

**bad idea** · 06-01-2014, 09:01 AM

Tires are grabbing fine and no wheel hop.

**pajeff02** · 06-01-2014, 11:30 AM

Stock 10 bolt out back? If so, you will not be able to put it all down to the track without some risk of having to trailer the car home. There is way more driveline shock with stick cars versus autos. However, if you have an aftermarket rear (or have confidence in your stock rear) then you can try upping your launch rpm. There is a fine line between breaking the tires loose, hooking and having it stumble. Wheel hop is bad so if you feel the car start to shake get off the throttle. You can start by working your rpms up to see where it likes to launch. Having some friends watch the car at the line to see how it reacts is also helpful. Three seconds is kind of a short burnout - not sure what is recommended for Nittos so you may want to experiment a bit with that as well as you up the launch rpms.

**bad idea** · 06-01-2014, 03:11 PM

3 seconds is a short burnout? That would explain why it hooked better on the third run than on the first (runs were close together). Stock 10 bolt. Next time out I will have the wife videotape the runs.

**2002ssslp** · 06-01-2014, 04:26 PM

Originally Posted by bad idea

3 seconds is a short burnout? That would explain why it hooked better on the third run than on the first (runs were close together). Stock 10 bolt. Next time out I will have the wife videotape the runs.

I will have to agree with Jeff. 3 seconds is a very short burnout, I would go with 18psi and 40psi up front then give it the old John Force and roast the rears for 7 to 10 seconds. Pull up to the staging lights and leave at 3500rpm and shift at 6200rpm. Good luck with the 10 bolt rear though.

**bad idea** · 06-02-2014, 01:38 AM

Now to clarify. Hold rpms at 3500, when light turns mash gas or roll into it? Let clutch out quick or slip it some?

**2002ssslp** · 06-02-2014, 04:57 AM

Originally Posted by bad idea

Now to clarify. Hold rpms at 3500, when light turns mash gas or roll into it? Let clutch out quick or slip it some?

I'm sorry. Slip the clutch for a second then let it rip. If you come off the clutch by side stepping it and you do get some bite your 10 bolt will be very angry and spit it's teeth back at you. It takes a few runs but you will get the feel of the clutch in a racing situation.

**bad idea** · 06-02-2014, 01:26 PM

So the faster I let the clutch out, the better for the 60' time but worse for the 10 bolt?

**pajeff02** · 06-02-2014, 02:36 PM

As long as you don't spin, the 60' times should drop. With supporting mods, our A4 car went from a 2.1 to 2.2 sixty foot down to a best of a 1.69 sixty foot so far.

**bad idea** · 06-03-2014, 01:27 AM

I'll see what the weather looks like Friday, maybe ride out to the track. Hopefully my next post isn't asking how to repair my 10 bolt.

**pajeff02** · 06-03-2014, 02:04 AM

10 bolt repair is extremely easy -- it involves a dumpster and the expenditure of around $2,500.

**2002ssslp** · 06-03-2014, 04:48 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

10 bolt repair is extremely easy -- it involves a dumpster and the expenditure of around $2,500.

^^^^

**bad idea** · 06-04-2014, 01:15 AM

ohh, is that all? I've got the parts for an 8.8 laying around. One of these days I'll get motivated and weld that up.

**pajeff02** · 06-04-2014, 01:57 AM

Scott has a whole thread posted on building an 8.8 for his car. Quite a bit of work actually so not sure what the best route is. I installed a Moser 12 bolt in our car a few years back and am very pleased with the results.

**2002ssslp** · 06-04-2014, 05:12 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Scott has a whole thread posted on building an 8.8 for his car. Quite a bit of work actually so not sure what the best route is. I installed a Moser 12 bolt in our car a few years back and am very pleased with the results.

These cars should have had a 12 bolt to begin with. My car stickered at almost 33k in 2002, for that price I want a 12 bolt rear. A 7.5" 10 bolt is great for a 6 cyl. auto car but 325+ hp and a 6m is insane. To give you an idea of the abuse a R&P set takes I was able to knock the teeth off a Dana 60 rear in my 1968 Dodge Charger RT with 9" slicks. Not too much hp difference since I was running low 12's at the time.

**pajeff02** · 06-04-2014, 01:58 PM

^^ Agree. They definitely cheaped out on the rear axle in our cars.

**Firebirdjones** · 06-05-2014, 05:31 AM

Originally Posted by 2002ssslp

These cars should have had a 12 bolt to begin with. My car stickered at almost 33k in 2002, for that price I want a 12 bolt rear. .

That's GM for ya. They stopped 12 bolt car production after the 1972 model year, lol. At least Ford got it right and realized they needed something better after the 9" was dropped in production cars, and started putting the 8.8 in the mustangs in 1986. It's been a mainstay since.

**Firebirdjones** · 06-05-2014, 05:44 AM

Originally Posted by bad idea

ohh, is that all? I've got the parts for an 8.8 laying around. One of these days I'll get motivated and weld that up.

The 8.8 is going to be a major job to install in a 4th gen F-body. My opinion, you'll be money and time ahead to retrofit a 9" ford in there and in the end have something stronger and much more versitile with all the aftermarket support they have. The torque arm brackets are already made to do the job, very simple.

As far as lauching the car goes, if you are bogging at 3,000 rpm, then you need to raise the rpm and find the happy spot. Every car is different and track prep that day will change what the car likes as well. I personally never liked to slip the clutch. Clutches aren't easy to replace. I prefer to pop the clutch and let the tires and suspension do the work, or modulate the gas pedal if I have to. Tires are cheaper and easier to replace than clutches

Sounds as though you are worried about breakage, so I assume the 10 bolt is still in the car, personally I'd just avoid the dragstrip all together until you have the funds to upgrade accordingly, Or, put stock street tires on it and purposely induce wheel spin to save the rear. It's not a fast way to go down track but it saves parts and still has a fun factor.
When you get a good rear in the car, get a good driveshaft in it, and the suspension dialed in, throw stickies on there and let it fly. You might be looking for a blowproof if you want to have some real fun.