1st time at track next week, any tips? tricks?

[greatwhiteZ28]

next week im going mainly stock except for boltons but just need to know what i need>? i heard helmit and just about it. its a AUTO

but

what should my frt/rear tire pressure should be?

luanch RPM/ how much throttel on start?

and any thing elese that im missing


thanks alot nick

[bills98ta]

Loose as much weight as you can ( spare tire, girl friend, ect... ). Running street tires ? I ran mine at 45lb in the front ( less rolling resistance ) but I never ran street tires in the rear... My drag radials, I run 21 lb in them...I Wouldn't go under 25lb on the stock rears.
Oh Ya, push the pedal through the floor boards & Good Luck !!!

[greatwhiteZ28]

thanks and i will be using street tires. there about 3000 mi on them there the bfg g force, but not the slicks just i think all around if there any good

[Hawk241]

thanks and i will be using street tires. there about 3000 mi on them there the bfg g force, but not the slicks just i think all around if there any good

Hey, first run about 30lbs. in rear tires, and go around the water patch and do a 3-4 second burnout. then stage and if you have a stock converter stand on brake and bring it up to about 1,700 rpms, and when you see the third yellow light say go and go. If you are going to start racing, might want to put in subframe connectors as well. Also show up with about 1/4 tank of gas. Any chance you get, keep your hood open to keep things cool. Run in D. Let me now how you do.

[boxmonkeyracing]

you won't need a helmit if you aren't going below I think 11.99. at that point you def need a helmit. also I had fuzion tires on my car regular street tires. I ran 20 lbs in them (rear). easiest way to tell is do a burn out. and if it's a nice wide patch of rubber even thickness then don't adjust. if it's light on the sides lower the tire pressure if it's light in the center put tire pressure in. and def drive around the water boxif at all possible. if you must drive through it try to avoid the puddles.

[bills98ta]

I think the helmet comes in at 14.0 and the roll cage is 11.49 ( use to be 11.99 )

[boxmonkeyracing]

I think the helmet comes in at 14.0 and the roll cage is 11.49 ( use to be 11.99 )

he's right check out http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html for rules on helmets and roll bars. fay must not care because I've been there several times running mid 13's with out a helmet.

[Lawnman]

Local nhra track. 13.99 or faster needs a helmet, long pants and long sleeve shirt. If you are running slicks you will need a driveshaft loop.

[greatwhiteZ28]

Local nhra track. 13.99 or faster needs a helmet, long pants and long sleeve shirt. If you are running slicks you will need a driveshaft loop.

are nitto 555r drag radials constider slicks, casue u know there street legeal and has grooves???

[Lawnman]

are nitto 555r drag radials constider slicks, casue u know there street legeal and has grooves???

I believe so. I have yet to see someone from tech actually look under a car though and check for a loop . The first time I was there I was told my helmet was out of date and my battery needed to be more secure. The next time I was at the track the tech guy { different guy } pretty much signed off on the car without looking at it. I guess it depends on which person tech's your car.
I also have noticed they will let you run even if you have minor things that do not pass tech. They will tell you to have it fixed before you come back.
I think it will also depend on how fast a car is, a 14 second car will be teched more lenient than a 9 second car.
Just go and have fun!

[greatwhiteZ28]

do you have to go threw tech everytime you go there?

[Lawnman]

yes.

[boxmonkeyracing]

depends on the track. fayetteville, nc. I haven't gone through it once. and I've been there several times.

[Lawnman]

depends on the track. fayetteville, nc. I haven't gone through it once. and I've been there several times.

Do they know you at that track?

[boxmonkeyracing]

Do they know you at that track?

nope. only been there 3 times. they don't have a tech.

[ramrod]

next week im going mainly stock except for boltons but just need to know what i need>? i heard helmit and just about it. its a AUTO

but

what should my frt/rear tire pressure should be?

luanch RPM/ how much throttel on start?

and any thing elese that im missing


thanks alot nick

I will give you the best tip! If you spinn out of the traps don't be a hero, and try to controll it. i see alot of fist timers doing this!

[greatwhiteZ28]

soo just let off real quick then back again on it

[ramrod]

soo just let off real quick then back again on it

Just let off completely! You already lost time on the et clock the track uses by just spinning out . (So whats the point) Another thing I really don't give advice on drag racing, but you don't have to do a famous John Force burn out. Just lite em up until they grab you will feel it.

Here is somthing for you ! Study it, and practice. Make sure you roll up your window too knowbody cares to look at how pretty you are.

Drag Racing Basics


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Drag racing is a rush. It gives you the feeling of adrenaline, a quench for speed and the taste - smell - and roar of mega horsepower. There is nothing like it. It looks pretty easy right?......right! Any monkey can go out and floor it, but he won't be consistent nor competitive. Drag racing requires lots of concentration and equal amounts of practice. It is also one of the few places you can go out and give-er-all-u-got without ending up in jail, especially with the levels of performance can achieve. Racing ain't cheap though. The problem is the bug...the faster you go...the faster you'll want to go. Speed costs money. Although, you can achieve certain levels of performance for low bucks - like me, there is a limit where it is going to take some serious cash to go faster. I tend to always end up just below this level with my cars. After all, these cars are my daily drivers too.

Drag Racing Basics: (Time trials not bracket racing)

1. Pay your entry fee, sign the liability waiver and pull around into the TECH line. Here they will check out your car to make sure you have a PARK starter override (if you have an auto), no loose trim, tight lug nuts and no wheel caps....this is usually the only thing you have to do; remove these prior to tech.

2. Once passing tech's visual check, you need to pass the safety checkthese vary and I may have missed some)

14's or slower....no safety equip reqd.

12's to 13.99......need a helmet SNELL certified.

10's to 11.99......roll bar, helmet, drive shaft loop.

Faster than this...all the above plus fire system/suit and clean extra pair of underwear.

3. Now that you're official, have a number on your windows and a grin on your face..get in the staging line(s). Here you will wait and pull forward, slowly making your way to the starting line. Some people push their cars forward, others drive. I've done both and noticed no difference with my car's performance.

4. You are next! The official will wave you and your competitor forward into the staging/burnout area. Wait until the guys before you take off and then the starter will wave you forward. With 2-wheel drive and street/treaded tires, pull around the burnout box and back in. This keeps all the water off the track and in the box. So, back you car's rear tires into the burn out box and heat-em-up! Be sure to spin all the water off of them after the box so you don't sit and spin at the line.

5. Now your heart is going, palms are sweating and you are ready! You need to know how the lights work to understand the next stage. There are two yellow lights on the top of the tree. When the first light comes on it means your front tires have passed the pre-stage line. You need to pull forward -slowly- another couple of inches until the second light down comes on also. At this point - you are staged. Don't pull forward or roll backwards...or you'll look like a dork. Once your competitor has completed his staging too, the race is soon to begin. The starter will normally start the lights about 5 sec after the last person stages...so be ready. Have your RPM'S up and ready to shift..autos too.






6. Here we go...this is the rush part...the lights will start to flash downwards. Most street car classes use the Sportsman's tree. Three amber lights will flash at .5 seconds apart and then the green will flash. I leave right on the last yellow....it takes my foot that long to let go of the brake and mash the pedal. This give me reaction times(r/t) of around .6 - .7 , a .5 is a perfect r/t.

7. . Keep it hammered until you cross past the finish line. Now slow down and brake to make the first turnout (watch for your competition...he doesn't have those massive brakes you do) If you don't make the first turnout, there will be another 1/4 mile down the track. If you miss this one, you'll end up in Kansas.

8. Now slowly pull around on the return track and stop to get your timeslip along the way. Get back in line and beat that time

[boxmonkeyracing]

4. You are next! The official will wave you and your competitor forward into the staging/burnout area. Wait until the guys before you take off and then the starter will wave you forward. With 2-wheel drive and street/treaded tires, pull around the burnout box and back in. This keeps all the water off the track and in the box. So, back you car's rear tires into the burn out box and heat-em-up! Be sure to spin all the water off of them after the box so you don't sit and spin at the line.

I have to disagree with the back your rear wheels into the box. for street tires avoid the water at all costs. I know people that have done this. they ended up still having water on their tires. want to know why? well even though you dry the tires off you just flew water all over your wheel wells, and guess what happens with gravity. the water that's now on the wheel well walls drops right back onto the tire while you are staging so you just spin like an MFer and the other guy just takes off.

[ramrod]

I have to disagree with the back your rear wheels into the box. for street tires avoid the water at all costs. I know people that have done this. they ended up still having water on their tires. want to know why? well even though you dry the tires off you just flew water all over your wheel wells, and guess what happens with gravity. the water that's now on the wheel well walls drops right back onto the tire while you are staging so you just spin like an MFer and the other guy just takes off.

Doin that for years never had a problem! I know what your talkin about but knock on wood.