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1st Time at the Track

This is a discussion on 1st Time at the Track within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; Hey guys, I ran at the track for the first time yesterday and overall was pleased... Kind of. My average ...

  1. #1
    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    1st Time at the Track

    Hey guys, I ran at the track for the first time yesterday and overall was pleased... Kind of. My average was around a 13.6 and best was like a 13.5. I can show pictures of the slips but I'm working now. My r/t was like .002-.1. I know that doesnt affect the time but anyways, my 60' was like 2.1 on average and trap speeds were 109-110. Heres the reason I'm posting...

    How in the HELL were people hitting 12.9-13.3 on that stock clutch, or should i say cylinders? (slave/master). My mods are in the sig, I put down about 330rwhp on a mustang dyno and have 4.10s and some 555 nittos. Now I know i need to work on my launch, which I will. Ill break 2s next time easy. I can tell you why my traps were a little low and my time sucked was because I had to granny shift the thing like you wouldn't believe. Are all stock clutch set ups really that bad? I havent done the drill mod yet purchased any tick things yet, but believe me I will. I had my fluid changed 2 months ago with normal dex III. I may go with synchromesh soon but still.. I went it knowing it was going to be bad but im not kidding, i spent at least 1.5 seconds overall with the clutch in because it just wont go in gear until the fluid flows. Ridiculous. Usually 1-2 is alright but it gets worse from 2-3 and 3-4 as time goes on. At normal speeds i can shift quicker than an auto it seems. Any comments or suggestions?

    I still had a blast. Ran like 10 times and could have run 40 :P
    2002 Black/Ebony M6 WS6: Lid, Filter, Smooth Bellow, P&P TB (!Bump Stop), Magnaflow Cat-Back (dumped after the axle), 4.10s, Hypertech ME Tune, eibach springs 4/4, LCA relocating brackets, PHB, free mods, 17" TTMs.

  2. #2
    Your friendly policeman FinZ28's Avatar
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    Looks like your 60ft time killed your e/t at the end of the run. Work on your launch and the time will come down. Those trap speeds are pretty high
    2001 Chevy Camaro Z28 A4
    SLP cold air intake/lid, SLP smooth bellow, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, Magnaflow exhaust, BMR STB, adjustable Panhard rod, SFC's, LCA's, 1LE sway bars, cross-drilled rotors

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    What was the temp and air pressure at the time of the race?

    Those 2 also effect how you do. High temps and humidity and I can see why you were as you were.

    My next master is coming form Tick too. I know I should had done it last time but I had to fix so many things and paying $550 for a new bell housing put a dent in cash flow.

  4. #4
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Your 60' time and trap speed indicate you should be running 12.7's or so. It sounds like your clutch and fluid are shot. You said you had to ride the clutch for the last 1.5 sec. and your 3-4 shifts are not going well. Sounds like clutch replacement time to me. I have a 2002 SS with 30k and I have no problem speed shifting at 6200 rpm's in any gear so it is not the stock clutch, which is not all that bad, it is a worn clutch.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

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    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    I didnt ride the clutch, i said that overall i wasted about 1.5 seconds within the entire 13.5 with the clutch pedal pressed down (waiting to be able to shift).

    So its not just the fluid issue with the slave? Is that only for the pedal sticking to the ground? Im actually hapoy hearing that. Its been like that since i got it. I guess the previous owner Didnt do so well lol. So with a nice fluid change and a new clutch, even a stock one, i should be able to shift quicker? I know i could cut .7 seconds off easy. I can tell that first and reverse sometimes engage.. Not so smoothly as well. Not rough but.. Just like almost as in when the shifter is in the right spot, it slips when i try and move. I need to back out and then in again. Appreciate it guys

    And idk the humidity but i was right by a river and it was about 93 degree so, that should tell you haha.

  6. #6
    Yeah baby! Yeah! silverWS6's Avatar
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    Same thing happens with my clutch, after a few hard shifts I have to practically "pump" the pedal so it can come all the way up again but I know its cause I need a new clutch and stuff. However it does not affect my shifting at all, I can shift like a mofo and she'll grab without a problem...

  7. #7
    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Damn. Well I guess I need to save for a clutch haha. Are aftermarket ones pricey? Would a stocker be alright if money is tight? Any recommendations?

  8. #8
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    Our car is an A4, so I can't comment on the clutch issues. Congrats on your first track outing!

  9. #9
    Member BadTA00's Avatar
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    If you go with a new stock master and slave, be sure to do the drill mod. It'll allow you to complete your 2-3 & 3-4 shift with less effort and wear and tear on the shift forks and synchronizers but will increase the shock loading through the driveline, due the quicker clutch engagements.

    But I'd go ahead and get the Monster/Tick Package:

    http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...maro-firebird/

    Sent from Motorola Atrix using Tapatalk 2.
    Last edited by BadTA00; 05-27-2012 at 05:11 AM.
    2000 T/A-DMH Cutout, SLP Cold Air kit, FTRA/SLP Upgrade, SLP Bilstein, LT1 Eibach ProKit, Kuhmo PA31 Tires ,SLP Fan Switch, UMI Double Adj PHB w/ Roto-Joints, UMI LCARB, Strano 35/22mm Sway Bars , Magnecor KV85 Wires, Hurst Shifter, Lou's Short Stick.

  10. #10
    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    oooh.. wow yeah I can't really throw a grand down atm. Not with this job anyway.
    Would bleeding the system and putting new fluid in possibly help at all? I mean my clutch itself doesn't slip or feel funny at all. If I never drove it hard what-so-ever I'd never know it was going out. Could it make a difference?

  11. #11
    Member BadTA00's Avatar
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    Are all your shifts difficult 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4?

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  12. #12
    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    Eh, I feel as though its progressively worse. If im on the street and im driving normally, and then nail 2nd, the 2-3 shift isnt too bad. Same situation if i start in 3 and try 3-4. But if i go through all the gears, 2-3 and 3-4 are annoying whereas 1-2 isnt terrible, because its the first WOT, but its still not even close to a low speed shift.

  13. #13
    Member Ant71130's Avatar
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    I just wanted to say that today I changed my clutch fluid and the results are definitely noticeable. The 'lazy pedal' issue used to occur like clockwork. If I WOT'ed 1-4, the pedal would stick to the ground for a good while. Few minutes at least. I did a 1-4 after I changed the fluid and the pedal stuck to the ground for a second, and then literally shot back up. The shifts seemed much easier and overall I'm pleased. The fluid looked pretty black so, I'll just have to keep up on it. A new Master will definitely be in order but for now, a very easy/cheap solution lol. Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it.

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