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10's Possible?

This is a discussion on 10's Possible? within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; Bolt ons, 85mm Intake and TB, 3600 stall, 3.42 gears, AI ported 241's, LG g5x2 cam.....I know there's a lot ...

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    Old Member, New Username BrownsMillsAntz's Avatar
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    10's Possible?

    Bolt ons, 85mm Intake and TB, 3600 stall, 3.42 gears, AI ported 241's, LG g5x2 cam.....I know there's a lot of factors to consider just curious if this setup is capable....

    Heads/Cam/Intake/Stall.
    404 Rwhp uncorrected @ 6400

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    Do you have any weight reduction? Suspension work? Drag radials?
    Callies 383, Trick Flow 225, Rapid Motorsports Dominatior 2 X cam, ls6 ported oil pump,42lb injectors, FAST 92/92 , ASP underdrive pully, eletric water pump, Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, Magnaflow catback, e-cutout, Yank SS 3600, Performabuilt stage 2 4l60e, Strange S60 ,4.10s, Detroit Truetrac, (UMI) - Adj. LCA, Adj. tunnel mount torque arm, Adj. panhard bar, Drag bar, subframe conectors, shock tower brace. 465rwhp-438rwtq 11.09@119.90.

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    Old Member, New Username BrownsMillsAntz's Avatar
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    1995 Z28 w/ LS1 Swap

    Car has no AC components, no spare or jack, no speaker box or anything, LCA's, STB, line lock and it'll probably be on Dr's. I have the cam already but would you reccomend a better head ?
    Last edited by BrownsMillsAntz; 12-21-2011 at 07:15 AM.

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    The 241s are a pretty good head when they are ported.
    Have you ever had your car to the track before?

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    Old Member, New Username BrownsMillsAntz's Avatar
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    No, I have a few front susp. issues I need to work out first but a few buddies w/ silmilar/same mods have ran deep in the lower 12's...some even 11's

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    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    The car should be capable of mid to high 11s. Driver will have a lot to play into that though. Are you running the stock 10 bolt still? If so, I wouldn't expect too many passes before grenading, if you are getting traction and pulling good 60' times. It takes a lot to hit the 10 sec. area. Usually nitrous or FI is used. Or a larger displacement motor.

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    I'm thinking high 11s on the cool day.

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    Old Member, New Username BrownsMillsAntz's Avatar
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    Yea I wouldnt run it without going 12 bolt first... my buddy ran his TA to a 12.1 same mods as I have now minus the intake & TB so I would hope for atleast mid 11's...i know all this stuff is expensive but whats the most budget efficient way of gaining more cubes LQ4 or 9?

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    Member WS6SP33D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownsMillsAntz View Post
    Yea I wouldnt run it without going 12 bolt first... my buddy ran his TA to a 12.1 same mods as I have now minus the intake & TB so I would hope for atleast mid 11's...i know all this stuff is expensive but whats the most budget efficient way of gaining more cubes LQ4 or 9?
    When going to a lq4/lq9 you are only going from 5.7 to 6.0 which usually makes up the difference in weight. last car i built (465 rwhp) went 10.8 with AI full cnc 243's, ls6 intake, ported tb, g5x3, LT's, ORY, Magnaflow CB, FAB 9" with 4.11's on mt et streets. It would run consistent 11.05/11.15. But it went 10's twice. Oh did i mention m6 I am building the same setup now but thinking of going to a 383. yes i like and recommend lq4/lq9 setups but only if you plan to spend a little money and build it right with H/C/I. But if you just throw a stock 6.0l in your car don't expect huge gains.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownsMillsAntz View Post
    Bolt ons, 85mm Intake and TB, 3600 stall, 3.42 gears, AI ported 241's, LG g5x2 cam.....I know there's a lot of factors to consider just curious if this setup is capable....
    Uuummmm,,,,,no. Not unless the car weighs about 2500 pounds with you in it

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Don't know of a "budget friendly" way of gaining cubes
    Like WS6 said, the 6.0 is only 18 cubes bigger, but the 4" bore is more HP friendly

    For more cubes you would either have to build the 6.0 with a stroker assembly, or stick a stroker assembly in your LS1. Neither option is cheap.

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    Old Member, New Username BrownsMillsAntz's Avatar
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    yea I wouldnt just throw the 6.0 in stock...I would cam it and probably have the heads worked...I understand you would probably just gain torque and not much power

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    Old Member, New Username BrownsMillsAntz's Avatar
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    1995 Z28 w/ LS1 Swap

    Firebirdjones can you explain the 4" bore a little more in detail ....

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    Member WS6SP33D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownsMillsAntz View Post
    Firebirdjones can you explain the 4" bore a little more in detail ....
    He is saying to build a 408. which is the only way to go when building a lq4/lq9

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    Old Member, New Username BrownsMillsAntz's Avatar
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    1995 Z28 w/ LS1 Swap

    ok thanks

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    I run 11.1s with stock heads, cam and intake, stock 10 bolt with 3.23s, only suspension is non adj lcas and phb. Only weight reduction was skinnys and no back seat.

    125 dry shot tho lol

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    Old Member, New Username BrownsMillsAntz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott5 View Post
    I run 11.1s with stock heads, cam and intake, stock 10 bolt with 3.23s, only suspension is non adj lcas and phb. Only weight reduction was skinnys and no back seat.

    125 dry shot tho lol
    I guess thats one way to get there

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott5 View Post
    I run 11.1s with stock heads, cam and intake, stock 10 bolt with 3.23s, only suspension is non adj lcas and phb. Only weight reduction was skinnys and no back seat.

    125 dry shot tho lol
    You can make anything fast with that little bottle

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrownsMillsAntz View Post
    Firebirdjones can you explain the 4" bore a little more in detail ....
    Yeah the 402-408 strokers are easy combo's to build with the 4" bore and stroke. Or you can go .060 over and use a 4.100 stroke for a 426.

    What I was really getting at with the 4" bore though is that the size of the bore has been considered the basis for HP building. Most of your engine builders will prefer to start with a 4" bore minimum (no matter what brand engine) as a basis for building power. The larger the bore, the better the cylinder heads work by unshrouding the valves.

    If you look at most of your flow bench testing for cylinder heads (and you have to dig deep because most don't list it). Most of your head flow numbers from all the big head manufactures are based off of a 4.5" bore. So the flow numbers are a bit fudged to say the least, unless you are building a 500+ cube engine.
    Put those same heads on a smaller bore than tested, and they don't flow the same. Which is why larger bore engines are prefered over smaller bore engines. Larger bore = more HP potential.
    WS6SP33D likes this.

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    Member WS6SP33D's Avatar
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    Yes ^^ i would have explained better but i was on my phone. This is the best most efficient way to make tons on power on a N/A motor. But as said can be very costly.

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