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  1. #1
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    1/8 mile times to expect

    I have a 2001 m6 with lots of suspension work slp exhaust and a lid, what kind of 1/8 mile times can i expect to get if i get a decent launch?

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    Member kevnstac's Avatar
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    Hard question to answer, but I'll start the answering process for everyone else to chip in their two cents worth....
    I'm going to venture out there and say you'll run around 8.50. You make no mention of tires, what rear gears you have installed, or how experienced you are at drag racing.
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    no experience at drag racing just some autocross. stock gears, and tires are some cheap 275X40's

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    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
    no experience at drag racing just some autocross. stock gears, and tires are some cheap 275X40's
    suspension work?

    SFCs, TA, LCAs?

    275x40s? Aftermarket wheels? It's common knowledge, that a thicker sidewall, will allow more flex for the tire to hook and grab.

    You're a M6 car? No experience? I'd say 8.50s and you're doing good first time out... just pay attention to your trap speed and 60' and report back with it. Trap speed shows you more of what the car is capable of, if you're spinning excessively off the jump (which will reflect in your 60').

    Try two things, depending on track conditions. Hold it between 2400-2600 and slip the clutch out. One can only teach so much over a keyboard, but you'll get a feel for it. The next thing to try, is to take off normal and then flat-foot it. You'll feel what's going on and how to adjust yourself for it. My last T56, the best I could muster was 8.90s, 2.1 60' and a 87mph trap speed. Should've been running 8.40s or better, but I couldn't hook on 275/40/17s. This was at 2 different tracks, same numbers all across the board

    I'll never step away from an automatic again But those 6 speeds are damn fun

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  5. #5
    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidz28 View Post
    I have a 2001 m6 with lots of suspension work slp exhaust and a lid, what kind of 1/8 mile times can i expect to get if i get a decent launch?
    i have the same exact mods and M6 also...

    My first night out at the track my best was a 9.2sec 1/8mi... the car was bone stock and it was my first time racing

    A year later, after my suspension mods (konis/stranos, adjustable PHB, Strut tower brace) My best was 9.03sec that night, only could get in 4 runs so I should have done better. Never spun off the line either..

    This was on 245 16" firehawk wideovals

    What I usually did was launch around 2k w/ slipping the clutch as suggested...


    When you guys say we should run 8.5's, what shifting are you expecting? Personally, I shift like a grandma because I dont want to damage the clutch or transmission more than i have to... I just shift normally: off gas, Clutch in, shift, clutch out, floor gas pedal

    Do you guys expect us to run 8.5 with power shifting or something to get that 8.5 secs?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    i have the same exact mods and M6 also...

    My first night out at the track my best was a 9.2sec 1/8mi... the car was bone stock and it was my first time racing

    A year later, after my suspension mods (konis/stranos, adjustable PHB, Strut tower brace) My best was 9.03sec that night, only could get in 4 runs so I should have done better. Never spun off the line either..

    This was on 245 16" firehawk wideovals

    What I usually did was launch around 2k w/ slipping the clutch as suggested...


    When you guys say we should run 8.5's, what shifting are you expecting? Personally, I shift like a grandma because I dont want to damage the clutch or transmission more than i have to... I just shift normally: off gas, Clutch in, shift, clutch out, floor gas pedal

    Do you guys expect us to run 8.5 with power shifting or something to get that 8.5 secs?
    Prolly need much much faster shifting, (shift no lift).. Only disengage the clutch enough to shift without clash.. Also gonna have to get ride of the fear of breaking stuff.. I don't drag race persay, but the tecnique has served me for 20 years on the streets.. "If ya can't fix it don't race it.." No offense man..
    Last edited by Smittro; 11-21-2010 at 10:06 AM.
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    Senior Member Lunatikgixxer's Avatar
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    i ran an 8.8 at 87 mph and a 2.3 60. I have enough power but i had NO TIRES, lol i spun all the way down the track, literally, all the way. If you hook up i think ull do an 8.6 with an m6 and an 8.5 on ur best run

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    Senior Member Lunatikgixxer's Avatar
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    Bat mobile black
    2000 Trans am WS6 M6

    i agree with smittro

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    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    Prolly need much much faster shifting, (shift no lift).. Only disengage the clutch enough to shift without clash.. Also gonna have to get ride of the fear of breaking stuff.. I don't drag race persay, but the tecnique has served me for 20 years on the streets.. "If ya can't fix it don't race it.." No offense man..
    ok and as far as the gas pedal... you're saying keep it to the floor once you're moving??

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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    ok and as far as the gas pedal... you're saying keep it to the floor once you're moving??

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    Lead Foot mammoth713's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    ok well sounds to me like i need more seat time... i want to avoid power shifting honestly... My clutch already feels worn down a bit from the previous owner so I try to be cautious


    Breaking my car to get 1/2 a second faster in an 1/8th mile for bragging rights doesnt seem worth it IMO.. I'd rather pass a c6 vette on a circuit I guess for bragging rights..

    To each his own.

  12. #12
    Senior Member MrMasterCraft's Avatar
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    2002 C5 - M6 - Blue
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lunatikgixxer View Post
    i ran an 8.8 at 87 mph and a 2.3 60. I have enough power but i had NO TIRES,
    Ran at two different tracks on an M6, PB of 8.9@87mph with either a PB of 2.2 or 2.1
    Could never hook, slipping as low as 1800, but I had clutch problems after hitting second, I could feel it. At the second track, after I gained experience.


    I agree with Smittro. If you can't afford to fix, don't race it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    ok well sounds to me like i need more seat time... i want to avoid power shifting honestly... My clutch already feels worn down a bit from the previous owner so I try to be cautious


    Breaking my car to get 1/2 a second faster in an 1/8th mile for bragging rights doesnt seem worth it IMO.. I'd rather pass a c6 vette on a circuit I guess for bragging rights..

    To each his own.
    I pretty much agree with you. I don't drag race much on the streets either but over the years in many different cars I've done the "from a dig" many times all added together.. Ya it's easy for us to sit and tell you how to break it lol. But it's your car and your wallet you know them better than us.. I like to turn too.. If you want consistency @ the strip tho I'd have to say go built auto.. Your 10-bolt (if your still running a 10) may last longer.. All you'll have to think about there is traction.. Trany does the rest.. Auto = consistency, 6spd = OOPS! missed a gear game over.. just my .02..
    Last edited by Smittro; 11-22-2010 at 03:34 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrMasterCraft View Post
    Ran at two different tracks on an M6, PB of 8.9@87mph with either a PB of 2.2 or 2.1
    Could never hook, slipping as low as 1800, but I had clutch problems after hitting second, I could feel it. At the second track, after I gained experience.


    I agree with Smittro. If you can't afford to fix, don't race it.
    the difference for some can be a nice clean good running car vs. a lawn ornament or a new shelve for the garage..
    Last edited by Smittro; 11-22-2010 at 03:35 AM.

  15. #15
    megs 02sunsetorangeZ's Avatar
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    my brother went out with bolt ons and stock 3.42s, no tune spinning through second he ran 8.5. That was his fastest time, had 245's too

  16. #16
    Senior Member Lunatikgixxer's Avatar
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    theres no way he "spun" and ran an 8.5. Maybe he chirped when he went into second but i think everyones car does that

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    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    ok and as far as the gas pedal... you're saying keep it to the floor once you're moving??
    I would not recommend that...but that is just me.

    Learn to shift hard and fast. The T56 can take a lot of abuse.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I would not recommend that...but that is just me.

    Learn to shift hard and fast. The T56 can take a lot of abuse.
    Awe what's the matter there big J? You gettin' too old there gramps? jk

  19. #19
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mammoth713 View Post
    ok and as far as the gas pedal... you're saying keep it to the floor once you're moving??
    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    I would not recommend that...but that is just me.

    Learn to shift hard and fast. The T56 can take a lot of abuse.
    That all takes alot of practice. I shift the old muncies that way, but don't dare do it on the T56's. They are way too notchy feeling for me to get that comfortable with it, and the hydraulic systems in stock form suck for any type of shifting like that. The 3-4 fork is weak, so I hate to slame them too hard, and the sincros need improvement, there is also alot of plastic inside for friction contacts rather than brass.
    At the very least I prefer an adjustable clutch system that I can taylor to a particular feel. Which I've done on our T56, allows near top engagement for faster shifts, but it's still not perfect.

    On the classic cars, adjustability is easy, and I like alot of free play off the floor, so I don't have to push the clutch as far. I can feather it (about half way) and that's enough for a muncie to slide right into gear.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    That all takes alot of practice. I shift the old muncies that way, but don't dare do it on the T56's. They are way too notchy feeling for me to get that comfortable with it, and the hydraulic systems in stock form suck for any type of shifting like that. The 3-4 fork is weak, so I hate to slame them too hard, and the sincros need improvement, there is also alot of plastic inside for friction contacts rather than brass.
    At the very least I prefer an adjustable clutch system that I can taylor to a particular feel. Which I've done on our T56, allows near top engagement for faster shifts, but it's still not perfect.

    On the classic cars, adjustability is easy, and I like alot of free play off the floor, so I don't have to push the clutch as far. I can feather it (about half way) and that's enough for a muncie to slide right into gear.
    Yeah. That's what I guess I'm talking about.. I did'nt even think about it that way.. I am an older guy used to trannies you can RACE with.. I never thought about the t56 being weak.. I would prolly still shift no lift a t56.. Can't make an omlet without crackin' a few eggs..

    It would die I'm sure I'd kill it..

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