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1/4 Mile Help

This is a discussion on 1/4 Mile Help within the Drag Racing forums, part of the Racing Forums category; Originally Posted by 98SSCamaro Thanks again everyone. Going to give it another shot with this advice and see what happens, ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98SSCamaro View Post
    Thanks again everyone. Going to give it another shot with this advice and see what happens, maybe I can improve with the advice given and see what happens.

    Not planning to race the car all the time but trying to see if what I run supports the HP / TQ I am supposed to be getting. My actual dyno was posted in another thread:
    Help - Trick Flow LS1 Top End Kit Dyno Reults
    I did the Trick Flow complete top end kit and really was not all that impressed for the price.

    This was the dyno ECS printed while tuning, final result was consistant 382.x RWHP and 375.x RWTQ Done on a Dynapack on a 100 degree plus day. They claimed the dyno runs on a day that hot is the worst this car will do.

    All supporting mods are there, fuel system upgraded, 42 lb injectors, LS6 intake, 90mm TB, TF CNC heads, TF Cam, Harland Sharps full roller rockers, LT headers, high flow cats, Loudmouth exhaust, TB coolant bypass, smooth intake bellow, K&N filter, LS7 lifters, correct legnth CM one piece push rods, running truck coils (which made little to no difference) . . . the list goes on. It's been suggested that I am running way to small of a cam for these heads and that I'm also restricted by the LS6 intake and should go with a FAST setup. Just not overly excited about a $800+ intake and a $500 tune, CAM doesn't bother me but will still need a tune after.

    I barely drive the car, sits in the garage most of the time. I can do the rear myself fairly cheap so I may try a set of 3.90 ring gears to see what that does for me. At least then I will have an idea of what gears to put in the stronger rear I will need once the stock rear fails. I figure 3.90 is in between 3.73 and 4.10 (the smallest and largest geares I'd be willing to run) and would let me know if I need more or less. A $300 learning experiance if nothing else and in theory at least allow me to cross the 1/4 in 4th approaching my redline.

    If you notice in the dyno power drops off at 6,000 that's why I shift there, is that wrong? Just weary about going over 6,000 but I guess one time wouldn't kill it so I will give it a try shifting between 6,400 and 6,500 to see what that does.
    There is your answer. Stock bottom ends on these engines are ok at 6500, from what I've read here. It was the pushrods that were the main limiting factor to go that high, as well as the OE valvesprings. Keep the 2.1x 60 fts, or slightly better, and shift at what you said, and I bet you will like the results.

  2. #22
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    When I first saw this post I was planning a track day and I decided not to answer until I had ran again...just to confirm what I was thinking.

    But for a car with those power levels the times and MPH's seem pretty far off to me. I'm dynoing about 330hp and running street tires as well. Also fairly near sea level with temps in the mid 60s. One difference though, I am in an Auto.

    Without being able to get ANY kind of traction my best 60' has been 2.07 with my average more like 2.18. I'm trapping 88mph @ 1/8th and 108mph @ finish on the bad runs with 13.0xx times, and on the good runs I'm trapping 90mph/109.9mph with 12.85.

    Like me you are probably limited by tire and probably to some extent suspension set up. Lower 60' times would help you a lot (or so everyone keeps telling me) but down the track I can only guess that you are shifting slowly or shifting early. If your car is in tune and making those dyno #'s I think you should be going mid 12's at the worst. Personally I feel like my car has a 12.60 in it if I put on LCA's and DRs
    As for your shifting into 4th 100' before the line, that is not optimal and changing your tire size or gearing could help...I'm not qualified to tell you what to do about it, but I do know that your senario is undesireable for best ETs.

    The rear end is a bit of a mystery, no one know's what it can or can't take in any certain terms...probably because some have broken thier 10 bolt seemingly effortlessly and others have had them hold up to a lot of abuse behind highly modded motors. What I can say for certain is that I watched a car run consistent 11.5's all night long on that rear end, and according to people at the track the guy has been doing it most weekends for the last few years.
    One middle aged guy at the track was a mechanic by trade as well as a weekend racer and he kept telling me that I shouldn't be afraid to get DRs. He claimed the secret of the 10 bolt was to keep the fluid up and to NEVER let it bounce. He claimed to have seen many 10 bolts take a lot of beatings and hold up fine, and he swore that almost every one that broke was due to tire hop....he even went so far as to say its almost always the 3rd hop that causes the most spectacular failures.
    Last edited by Intrepidman; 09-22-2010 at 06:19 AM.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    wheel hop will kill a 10 bolt easily. wheel hop can kill just about any rearend eventually.

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    There is your answer. Stock bottom ends on these engines are ok at 6500, from what I've read here. It was the pushrods that were the main limiting factor to go that high, as well as the OE valvesprings. Keep the 2.1x 60 fts, or slightly better, and shift at what you said, and I bet you will like the results.
    I agree here. Higher shift points are definately needed with the combo this guy is running. The motor should go 6500 easily. I've taken mine to 6700 (where the limiter is set) on several occasions. Higher might be pushing it with these powdered metal rods and stock bolts.
    I'll bet higher shift points alone will pick up the mph and drop the ET.

    He is also right in thinking, since the dyno shows peak power at 6,000, he would benefit from a shift point above that to keep the engine in it's happy spot. The car would run best with a 4.10 gear, probably even more if you want to increase the tire height. You want to be crossing the finish line in your 1:1 gear right at or just above your shift point for best ET.
    For instance if you find that 6500 is your best shift point, that is where you want to cross the line at in 4th gear as well, sometimes a tad higher. If you don't, there is probably more left in the car.

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    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    You shift into 4th with a 3.42 gear as well running a stock height tire.
    i didn't after i had my rev limit set higher...

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaz View Post
    i didn't after i had my rev limit set higher...
    You raised the rev limiter with the stock valvetrain??

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    O U 8 1 2 Spaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    You raised the rev limiter with the stock valvetrain??
    yup...

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    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Yikes

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  10. #30
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Yikes
    He has LS6.

  11. #31
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    He has LS6.
    It would have helped if he would have disclosed that little bit of important information.

    In which case he has a factory redline of 6500 then, and they easily did that. So he is basically doing what I have done with my stock LS1 that has a mild cam. Bump the limiter a tad to 6700 and I can barely cross in 3rd with 3.42's.

    A stock LS1 won't do it.

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