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ZR1s or GS on a Formula

This is a discussion on ZR1s or GS on a Formula within the Wheels and Tires forums, part of the General Help category; My Formula is lowered with Eibach Springs and running Koni Yellow Shocks I know will have to do the BFG ...

  1. #1
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    ZR1s or GS on a Formula

    My Formula is lowered with Eibach Springs and running Koni Yellow Shocks

    I know will have to do the BFG mod to my inner fender walls in the rear (been reading)

    but I was wondering since I have a Formula can I use the ZR1 offset rather than the GS offset and not have to roll my fender lips?
    or do I need to roll my fender lips with either cause of my car being lowered?
    or will the ZR1 offset even fit with or without the fender lip rolled?

    also can anyone here suggest a shop that can roll the lip in Dallas, Texas?
    I have been having no luck finding a Camaro/Firebird/Corvette Custom Shop in Dallas

    also where can I find center caps? SLP wants 35/cap
    and who is a good maunfacturer of ZR1 wheels?
    I have seen OE Creations, AFS, and a few others

    also will the SLP replacement bumpstops work with the ZR1 wheels?
    http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=80046
    Last edited by kny3twalker; 03-21-2006 at 10:25 PM.

  2. #2
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    zr1 offset will make the wheels stick out even more than the GS.
    You will have to at minimum fold the lip, if not flare it.
    Mine are GS offset... pix in link in signature.
    Pix are with Eibach Prokits and Konis.
    Eugenio_SS
    almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)

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    did you clear coat your wheels are polishing them?
    I was thinking about the AFS polished and having them powder clear coated

    what company did you buy your wheels from? (brand of wheels)
    where did you get your center caps?
    how did you handle your bumpstops?
    and do I need the adjustable panhard bar?

    and on a side note, what did you do about rubbing up front with the 11" wheels?

    and thank you

  4. #4
    Member Bowtie Guy's Avatar
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    That SLP price is for a set of 4 caps. I bought a set of ZR1 chrome 9.5x17 56mm offset on ebay for $550 but they came with Corvette caps. Got chrome bowtie caps from SLP.
    Bowtie good! Blue oval not so good! Bob in the PRK

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    Quote Originally Posted by kny3twalker
    did you clear coat your wheels are polishing them?
    I was thinking about the AFS polished and having them powder clear coated

    what company did you buy your wheels from? (brand of wheels)
    where did you get your center caps?
    how did you handle your bumpstops?
    and do I need the adjustable panhard bar?

    and on a side note, what did you do about rubbing up front with the 11" wheels?

    and thank you
    I bought the wheels from AFS, bought the painted ones, and then stripped them and polished them.
    Didn't get the polished ones, since behind the spokes (polished and chrome version) are rough aluminum, not smooth surface which is hell to clean with all the brake dust.
    What rubbing in the front ?
    the rubbing only happened in the rear, fronts were plug and play.
    You can easily put a wider wheel and wider tires in front with no issues... some have 17x12 w/ 335s on the front.

    For the bumpstops, I cut them in half (removing the half on the outer part), so it clears the wheels.
    adj PHR helps, but getting a rod-end one will help you more.
    best way to adjust it is to remove the springs and adjust it as you raise the rear-end into the wheel wells... since rubbing occurs when spring is compressed.
    Last edited by Eugenio_SS; 03-24-2006 at 08:52 AM.

  6. #6
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    adj PHR helps, but getting a rod-end one will help you more.
    best way to adjust it is to remove the springs and adjust it as you raise the rear-end into the wheel wells... since rubbing occurs when spring is compressed.
    removing the spring is kind of a big job for myself, considering I do not think its the safest to use the autozone rental spring compressors or are there better ways of doing this?
    and what's the rod-end one? (not familiar)

    oh and if you could not tell, I have not done in spring installs either myself

    I bought the wheels from AFS, bought the painted ones, and then stripped them and polished them.
    Didn't get the polished ones, since behind the spokes (polished and chrome version) are rough aluminum, not smooth surface which is hell to clean with all the brake dust.
    good to know!!!

    and thanks again for taking the time to answer my questions

    That SLP price is for a set of 4 caps. I bought a set of ZR1 chrome 9.5x17 56mm offset on ebay for $550 but they came with Corvette caps. Got chrome bowtie caps from SLP.
    ok, thanks
    Last edited by kny3twalker; 03-24-2006 at 09:32 AM.

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    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kny3twalker
    removing the spring is kind of a big job for myself, considering I do not think its the safest to use the autozone rental spring compressors or are there better ways of doing this?
    having the car raised and the rear end hanging, you can easily remove the uncompressed springs by hand.
    Once that is done, take a jack and raise the rear-end so the wheels go in deep inside the wheel well.

    Quote Originally Posted by kny3twalker
    and what's the rod-end one? (not familiar)
    There are mainly 3 types of PHR... rubber, polyurethane and rod-end (same as helm-joints).
    Here is an example of a rod-end good quality piece:
    http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/PHR/

    Quote Originally Posted by kny3twalker
    oh and if you could not tell, I have not done in spring installs either myself
    ...
    and thanks again for taking the time to answer my questions
    ...
    springs in the front require the compressing tool since they are mounted on the shocks... the rear ones aren't... it's just the spring sitting on the rear and having a rubber insulater on the top.
    pleasure is all mine to try to help as much as i can.

  8. #8
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    having the car raised and the rear end hanging, you can easily remove the uncompressed springs by hand.
    Once that is done, take a jack and raise the rear-end so the wheels go in deep inside the wheel well.
    cool good to know

    springs in the front require the compressing tool since they are mounted on the shocks... the rear ones aren't... it's just the spring sitting on the rear and having a rubber insulater on the top.
    pleasure is all mine to try to help as much as i can.
    cool after my first set of konis in the rear went bad, a friend and I replaced the shocks
    during the repair he kept telling about how difficult springs were, I guess he was referring to the front
    LOL

    There are mainly 3 types of PHR... rubber, polyurethane and rod-end (same as helm-joints).
    Here is an example of a rod-end good quality piece:
    http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/PHR/
    ok, I have been looking at the spohn PHR with polyurethane,
    what about the rod end PHR, helps more?
    just seems extreme in my situation

    again thanks, this site makes projects more feasible

  9. #9
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    The PHR I would not go polyurethane... when turning, the PHR will prevent the rear-end from moving left to right.
    With the rod-ends, it lets it do its work properly with freedom of movement.
    Poly and rubber will bind, but poly will bind the most since it's a harder material... and that will hinder your handing, not to mention that the bind won't let the PHR do its work so well, you then increase the chances of rubbing.
    It's a bit more expensive, but at least you only do it once.
    If you do it, make sure you get it from a place where the rod-ends are of great quality.
    I could think of 3 and not many more (UnbalancedEngineering, LG, TrackbirdEngineering)

  10. #10
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    The PHR I would not go polyurethane... when turning, the PHR will prevent the rear-end from moving left to right.
    With the rod-ends, it lets it do its work properly with freedom of movement.
    Poly and rubber will bind, but poly will bind the most since it's a harder material... and that will hinder your handing, not to mention that the bind won't let the PHR do its work so well, you then increase the chances of rubbing.
    It's a bit more expensive, but at least you only do it once.
    If you do it, make sure you get it from a place where the rod-ends are of great quality.
    I could think of 3 and not many more (UnbalancedEngineering, LG, TrackbirdEngineering)
    http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1046

    try them, thats the company I was referring to above in my previous post


    and thanks for the explanation

  11. #11
    Crazy Canuck ! Eugenio_SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kny3twalker
    http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1046

    try them, thats the company I was referring to above in my previous post


    and thanks for the explanation
    ask them what kind of rod-ends they use on the PHR.

  12. #12
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    The high quality QA1 spherical rod ends provide for "bind-free" handling performance. The solid connections will increase road noise.

    All of our spherical rod ended components come equipped with QA1 extra high strength, chrome moly rod ends with TeflonŽ/KevlarŽ self lubricating race. When shopping around for spherical rod ended components, do not shop on price alone. The lower grade rod ends (which are much cheaper) will not hold their tolerances like the premium QA1 rod ends we utilize, this will cause substantial amounts of noise in a short time. We have had to increase our prices, but it is money very well spent in the long run, these rod ends will last a very long time. The rod ends supplied on our components are QA1 ENDURA 2000 Series (XMR12/XML12).
    http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1299

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