Rims/Tires Rubbing Inner Well

**Castle** · 10-13-2007, 04:46 PM

I purchased 18x9.5 (Front) / 18x10.5 (Rear) Z06 C5 rims w/275/35/18's (Front) & 295/35/18's (Rear) back in June.
When I go up driveways or the such, I hear the rears rub slightly, no biggie for the moment.
(I intend to get an Eibach Pro-Kit however with the rubbing situation, something must be done).

What's worse is, I looked back there today while it was on a lift and can see the inner well has been rubbed in a few spots down to the paint
and the inside rubber stopper thing is pretty much touching my inner rim on both sides (one side is scraped)...

I really need some good advice on what to do as I am not sure spacers will help if I intend on lowering it 1.5".

Thanks for any input.

**Castle** · 10-14-2007, 11:25 AM

Can't understand how people have all sorts of wide rims/tires in back on their F-Bodies, yet I seem to be the only person with
a clearance/rubbing problem. Just my shit luck I guess.

**Hamrhead** · 10-14-2007, 01:40 PM

Is the little rubber thingy the bumpstop? What Backspacing did you get (7.5 BS) when you bought the wheels? These should fit and I don't see why you would be hitting the bumpstop.

**Castle** · 10-14-2007, 02:21 PM

Originally Posted by Hamrhead

Is the little rubber thingy the bumpstop? What Backspacing did you get (7.5 BS) when you bought the wheels? These should fit and I don't see why you would be hitting the bumpstop.

After seeing the meats some of the F-Body community runs on the rears, backspacing wasn't even a question
that came into play when I bought the wheels... Especially since they are Z06 C5's... But to answer your question,
I have no idea what the BS is on them. Yes, they are hugging the bumpstops, one side is scraped.
Unfortunately it appears spacers are my only hope here & I won't be able to lower it... I hope I am wrong.

**Hamrhead** · 10-14-2007, 02:41 PM

Sounds like a 5.5" BS but not really sure. If you want you can remove the bumpstops and cut out the metal piece they were attached to. It takes some work but it will do it. Then try massaging your inner fender well with a BFH and roll your fender lip. You might be able to lower it then and be fine.

**Castle** · 10-14-2007, 02:48 PM

Originally Posted by Hamrhead

Sounds like a 5.5" BS but not really sure. If you want you can remove the bumpstops and cut out the metal piece they were attached to. It takes some work but it will do it. Then try massaging your inner fender well with a BFH and roll your fender lip. You might be able to lower it then and be fine.

Removing the bumpstops, cutting out, etc, won't hurt or prevent anything?
BFH = Lmfao!!! Good call, can't believe it still carries that mod name.
My problem is, finding a shop that will do that for me (shave/hammer the inner well & cut off the bumpstops) as I don't have tools to do it.
Additionally, do you think doing a little bit of hammering, shaving would allow me room to lower the car 1.5 inches on a Pro-Kit if it is hitting the inner well as it is stock?

**Hamrhead** · 10-15-2007, 08:53 AM

Romoving the bumpstops has not effected me or many others that have done it. Not saying there is no one ever effected! If you hit some enormous pot hole it may hit some but still shouldn't be an issue. To roll the fenders some places rent fender rollers. For hammering just go to Home Depot and get a 4# blacksmith hammer, it's like $9. Then beat the hell out of them and spray some rubberized undercoating on all the newly exposed metal. As far as cutting out the metal for the bumpstops, if you can't get a hold of a sawzall then take it to a shop with a plasma cutter and see if they will cut them out for you. Would only take 15 mins with a plasma. I did this to get my 325's to fit.

**Pyromaniacal** · 10-15-2007, 09:13 AM

Putting 315/35/17Rs on my T/A I had to go in there with a hammer and smash my wheel wells back. I then busted out the di-grinder and grinded the rubbing area of the bumpstop down to size, and then went over it all with rubberized undercoating to clean it up.

My right hand side frame is protruding more than my left hand side though, so on extreme speed bumps and dips if I do not take them just perfectly the right hand side rubs, I think some suspension pieces will get that under control (stock suspension still, including ride height).

For lowering however, you're going to need to do A LOT of hammering, and you're going to have a good body guy roll the fenders to get a good fit on them, but it is possible. I am going to make it happen on my 383 LT1 and my LS1, but not for a while.

P.S. - If you don't get this taken care of soon, your tire WILL RUPTURE!!! Be extremely careful driving it, my friend.

**Castle** · 10-16-2007, 08:47 AM

Originally Posted by Pyromaniacal

P.S. - If you don't get this taken care of soon, your tire WILL RUPTURE!!! Be extremely careful driving it, my friend.

This is what I am afraid of... I have brand new tires & they were expensive!!!

Thanks for the input, I will be sure to get this handled...
I think I am stuck getting 1/2" spacers to pull it away from the inner wall as it rubs near the bottom of the well,
(which is metal/next to the spring). It seems to have clearance everywhere else, so 1/2" spacer plus ditching the
bumpstop should hopefully take care of my situation....

Problem now is, I am not sure I will be able to lower it comfortably on the Eibach Pro-Kit now.
I plan on getting Koni Adjustables to tighten everything up, so that should help a great deal.

I have no experience with spacers, so don't know the pro/cons...

**Hamrhead** · 10-16-2007, 10:41 AM

Cons is you can't use them at the track! You will need longer wheel studs too.

**Castle** · 10-16-2007, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by Hamrhead

Cons is you can't use them at the track! You will need longer wheel studs too.

I was aware of needing longer studs, (does this mean locking lugs no longer are applicable)?
But no track because of spacers..????? WTF Why?
Well all I want to do is not rub anymore & I am not sure grinding/hammering is an option for me,
so if spacers means I can never find out what my 1/4 mile time is, that's just pathetic.

Wtf do I now, eat the cost of these rear wheels & sell them?
Pretty fking stupid the place I bought them from said they would fit np and they don't.

**Hamrhead** · 10-16-2007, 01:41 PM

As far as the track my buddy got turned away for spacers but that was in 2005 at an NHRA track so I don't know if it is different now but as far as I know you still can't. It is a safety issue with them I guess. I don't know all the reasons why though. As far as any stock lug nuts go they won't work with the longer studs unless the spacer is as thick as the extra length of the wheel stud. If not look into a set of open ended lugs.

Also each track is a little different so call and find out. Some barely check anything and others are anal about. It also differs from tech to tech sometimes too.

**Eugenio_SS** · 10-16-2007, 08:59 PM

you'll need a little spacer in the rear... vette wheels go well with a 1/2" spacer in the rear.

**Castle** · 10-17-2007, 09:16 AM

Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS

you'll need a little spacer in the rear... vette wheels go well with a 1/2" spacer in the rear.

Thank you, that was the exaxt size I was thinking about purchasing.

**camarojunky74** · 10-21-2007, 02:16 AM

hey man i have the same size i dont know what your back spacing is but i have a liittle rubbing all you do is tap in that spot and paint it, that should take care of your problem,,

i havent lowerd my car yet that will be done monday

**Jglisson** · 10-21-2007, 10:46 AM

I just bought some C6 wheels (18 in the front and 275/35/zr19s in the rear) I can't even drive my car until I get some spacers/adapters. They are on Ebay for only $62 shipped and the give 1" of spacing. I plan to order them Monday.