Questions for Eugenio_SS

[SexOnWheels]

I know that you are running 11X17's on all four corners of your 'Vert.

Can you post why you need spacers on the front to get a 50mm offset to fit. Also if you have to install new studs on the hubs because of the spacers.

Can you get away without running spacers, if not what will happen.

Also how is it on the street? Tracking, ride, etc?

Where is the best place to pick up spacers. Any problems with aftermarket lower A-arms?

I have been searching this subject (currently running 9.5's and 11's) and if you could answer all the questions here only one search will be need in the future.

Thanks in advance

[Eugenio_SS]

I know that you are running 11X17's on all four corners of your 'Vert.

Can you post why you need spacers on the front to get a 50mm offset to fit. Also if you have to install new studs on the hubs because of the spacers.

Can you get away without running spacers, if not what will happen.

Also how is it on the street? Tracking, ride, etc?

Where is the best place to pick up spacers. Any problems with aftermarket lower A-arms?

I have been searching this subject (currently running 9.5's and 11's) and if you could answer all the questions here only one search will be need in the future.

Thanks in advance

the front spacer is to nicely clear the spindle when @ full turn.
some people use 1/4" and some also use 7/32"... I used 7/32"... with stock style brakes.... Now with the Porsche brakes, i need no spacers.
As for studs, i ended up getting same size, but threaded all the way, instead of tappered studs (got ARP).
The only other mod i had to do on the spindle, you'll notice a little piece of metal sticking out, like an appendix... i grinded that out.

As for place to find spacers, a great place is www.skulte.com

It works great on the street... make sure you have a good alignment. only regret i have is not getting the wide wheels earlier.

Still have the stock A-arms... but know of ppl having aftermarket ones.
As a matter of fact, i'll soon have aftermarket ones... since I just purchase the UMI K-member + upper + lower A-arms.

There are a few pix if you click on the link in signature.

Works well on street + track.
I have:
camber: -1.0'
castor: +4.5'
toe-in: 1/32"

depending on how i drive, i can make the car understeer or oversteer... but then again, I have 500/150 spring rates and 35/21 swaybars.

[SexOnWheels]

Did you order the Umi K-member with the extra braces?

Also I thought that tubular lower A-arms were considered weak in RR/AX applications so I went with the boxed lowers from G2 performance.

They look to be smaller than the stock lowers so I wonder if I would need spacers?

Currently I am running

Camber: -2.0'
Castor: +4.9'
Toe-in: 1/32"

I think I will order the 35/21 combo from Sam but have been waiting for his springs to be released so I can try to get a package deal.

I see that there is a GP for wheels at FRRAX.com so I have been trying to research all I can before ordering 2 more 11x17's.

So you have all four wheels with a 50mm offset so you can rotate? This intrests me aswell as I found this season the fronts wore faster than the rears.

I guess I could still order 2 more wheels and get the spacers later as that is a good price for ZR1's.

Thanks for all the info this thread will answer allot of the common questions when it comes to running 11x17 on all four corners.

[Eugenio_SS]

Did you order the Umi K-member with the extra braces?

Also I thought that tubular lower A-arms were considered weak in RR/AX applications so I went with the boxed lowers from G2 performance.

They look to be smaller than the stock lowers so I wonder if I would need spacers?

Currently I am running

Camber: -2.0'
Castor: +4.9'
Toe-in: 1/32"

I think I will order the 35/21 combo from Sam but have been waiting for his springs to be released so I can try to get a package deal.

I see that there is a GP for wheels at FRRAX.com so I have been trying to research all I can before ordering 2 more 11x17's.

So you have all four wheels with a 50mm offset so you can rotate? This intrests me aswell as I found this season the fronts wore faster than the rears.

I guess I could still order 2 more wheels and get the spacers later as that is a good price for ZR1's.

Thanks for all the info this thread will answer allot of the common questions when it comes to running 11x17 on all four corners.

I ordered the K-member w/ extra bracing indeed.
here are some pix and info:
http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=8071

the GP in frrax is a great deal.
As for my 4 wheels, they are all indeed +50mm offsets, and can rotate them at ease.
With a 7/32" or a 1/4" spacer, the wheel will fit trouble free. if the car is in the air, you can turn the wheel all the way and notice the little appendix sticking out on the spindle getting very close to the wheel... i grinded that off just in case... some ppl had no issues, some ppl had it touching... i took no chances with wheel flex under racing... i just grinded it a bit.

I'm telling you, the rears are WAY more work than the fronts.
Fronts are like plug and play.
Also, you might want to consider getting new studs... pretty cheap... at least same lenght but threaded all the way till the end... i got ARPs.

I remember back in 2001 when i decided to go w/ 17x11 on all corners... only a few were running the setup... and I was scheptic as hell too. There's ppl fitting 17x12 w/ 335s in the front too, btw

Since you already have 17x11 (+50) in the rear, you can always test fit them in the front on a lift... all you need is some kind of washers that are pretty close to 1/4" and allows you to put on the wheel and hand tight the bolts... you can then turn the steering all the way and check the clearances... you'll be fine.

Nice aggressive alignment you have there... I think with wider wheels you won't need as much camber, but depends on the choice of tires too.
For the swaybars, advice: get the hollow ones (much lighter)

hope this helps.

btw, where in Canada are you from ? (are you from Vancouver ? if so I remember 1-2 threads of yours)