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New studs.....

This is a discussion on New studs..... within the Wheels and Tires forums, part of the General Help category; So I am in the process of putting longer wheel studs on tye front hub for the spacer I need ...

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    New studs.....

    So I am in the process of putting longer wheel studs on tye front hub for the spacer I need for my CTS-V brakes. Problem is I can't get them in any further and it is not flush. I put two m12 washers down and then a lug nut to zip them in but all that did was pull them in far enough so I can't pull the studs out by hand and crush the washers. My question is, is there a special way to do this? Btw I am using an air impact wrench. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Here are the pictures of my progress so far:


    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
    (Coming Soon) BMR DSL, UMI TQ Arm
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    Installing wheel studs is a job I prefer to do on a press. Just upgraded my front ones a few weeks ago. I takes all of 10 minutes to remove the spindle arm from the car and another 10 to put it back on.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    I don't have have a press except maybe a bench vice. What would be the best way to get the hub off after the bolts are removed as I imagine it will be stuck.

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    I used a ball joint press when I did my front studs. Worked pretty good.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpop98ws6:2763088
    I used a ball joint press when I did my front studs. Worked pretty good.
    Can you use that with the hub still on the car? Also where can I get that?

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    Senior Member cpop98ws6's Avatar
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    Yes you can. You can probably rent one from your local parts store. I used a piece of flat metal on the back of the stud and a long socket over the front of the stud. Then ran it in with an air gun.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpop98ws6:2763110
    Yes you can. You can probably rent one from your local parts store. I used a piece of flat metal on the back of the stud and a long socket over the front of the stud. Then ran it in with an air gun.
    I might try that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cpop98ws6 View Post
    Yes you can. You can probably rent one from your local parts store. I used a piece of flat metal on the back of the stud and a long socket over the front of the stud. Then ran it in with an air gun.

    That's a great idea. Have to remember this one for future use.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpop98ws6:2763110
    Yes you can. You can probably rent one from your local parts store. I used a piece of flat metal on the back of the stud and a long socket over the front of the stud. Then ran it in with an air gun.
    Another thing, shouldn't I not need the air gun if I am using the press?
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 04-04-2012 at 07:54 PM.

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    Air gun simplifies the process and would quickly draw the stud into the hub. But no, it is not required.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    I am wondering if the studs don't fit now. They still won't go in with trying the ball joint press.

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    What studs did you purchase... Moser, ARP?

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02:2764254
    What studs did you purchase... Moser, ARP?
    Eibach, the ones that come in the spacer pro kit. I am thinking about getting some arp ones, unless the mosers are better.

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    I have Moser P/N 8225 studs in our car on all four corners. They are about an inch longer than stock for the track, but I can still install my factory lugnut caps when I bolt on the Speedlines. The ARP studs were "out of stock" when I tried to order from Summit and their site said it would be about a month before they became available.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I have Moser P/N 8225 studs in our car on all four corners. They are about an inch longer than stock for the track, but I can still install my factory lugnut caps when I bolt on the Speedlines. The ARP studs were "out of stock" when I tried to order from Summit and their site said it would be about a month before they became available.
    Do you think those should work with my 15mm wheel spacer? I needed a spacer and longer studs for my cts-v brakes since I couldn't really thread the stock studs at all with my current rim, the spokes were touching the cts-v calipers. Do you know how long arp studs are compared to the moser ones? Also I can't find the studs with the part number you listed on moser's site. I found one that was numbered as 8255 that seems about right from the measurements supplied but no 8225.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 04-08-2012 at 08:27 PM.

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    I stand corrected -- P/N 8255 is what you want. These will be 1" longer than stock.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02:2764433
    I stand corrected -- P/N 8255 is what you want. These will be 1" longer than stock.
    Alright thanks! I'll try those.

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    So I got the studs in and they aren't going in easy like the stock ones do. I was thinking about driving it to a shop and have them do it real quick, how much do you think they would charge for that?

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    Not a clue what they would charge.

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