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Better Cheaper tires

This is a discussion on Better Cheaper tires within the Wheels and Tires forums, part of the General Help category; Why jd1666?...

  1. #21
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    Why jd1666?

  2. #22
    Just a slow Camaro KING Z28 HAWK's Avatar
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    Thanks

  3. #23
    Member jd1666's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric1987 View Post
    Why jd1666?
    becuase your tires should have more responsiveness and they look hell of a lot better then getting stock rims, find the right ones that have better tread and grip and go with wider tires the 16's suck, im getting 17's upfront and 18s in the back after i get my headers

  4. #24
    War Machine BIG GUNS's Avatar
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    I've had some pretty good luck with my Falken FK452s and they are not all that expensive. I think I paid 175ish for the rear 275/40R/17s. Try Discount Tire.com They may have something that you are looking for and I've had nothing but good experiences with that company.

  5. #25
    War Machine BIG GUNS's Avatar
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    Correction, they are $125 a tire for the Falken FK452 in that size.

  6. #26
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    Sorry for the newb question but whats the widest tire I can fit on the stock rims? And are the Falken FK452's stickier than stock?

  7. #27
    War Machine BIG GUNS's Avatar
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    Depends on the rim diameter. Largest I could go for the 17 inch was the 275 unless I upped to a size 18" rim.

    The Falkens were pretty sticky last night but, I got over zealous and had the RPM up too high on the blocks and spun a little.

    I had Conties on there before (Continental) which weren't bad either for a stock tire. The Falkens would do pretty good in an experienced drivers hands I think.

  8. #28
    War Machine BIG GUNS's Avatar
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    Just remember that a 315 is about the largest you can go without having to roll (modify) the wheel well lip.

    If you stay at or under that, I'm sure you will be pleased. Call Discount tire or some place that specializes in that and they can help you real well over the phone.

  9. #29
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    Well I looked at my tires and they are Eagle HP's 245/50/16ZR16

  10. #30
    Yo Da Lin The Valley..... astyles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric1987 View Post
    Well I looked at my tires and they are Eagle HP's 245/50/16ZR16
    if you dont plan on doing like 185 mph you may not need z rated.......

  11. #31
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    But are those tires decent? As far as tread wear and stickyness

  12. #32
    Old Enough to Know Better Crimson Sin's Avatar
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    I manage a Goodyear store in Portland and sell a ton of tires.. I sell everything, Falken, Michelin, Yoko's, Nexen etc. Falken's are a decent tire for the price. You DO not need a Z rated tire.. The rating is meant to show how LONG a tire can hold the speed it's rated for.. IE ZR rated Y tires are good for say (for examples sake) 168 mph for TEN hours. It has NOTHING to do with traction or handling, Just how long it can take the heat generated by going that fast for a set time (Think Autobahn <sp?>).
    The treadwear number 360, 400, 180 etc simply means it lasted X amount longer then the base tire they tested it against... 360 means it lasted 3.6 times longer then the base tire. NOT how many miles you will get from it. Traction rating is more important A AA B etc but has not much to do with lateral G's or off the line traction. I recommend going to Tire Rack and read the reviews of the tire you are looking at. Every manufacturer goes about it somewhat differently, carcass (construction) technology, tread technology, compound (rubber) technology etc to get the end result of handling and life expectancy. Pirelli uses a softer compound so they wear fast, Goodyear uses Carcass and Tread technology (Eagle GT HR with Race Wrap) to give a flatter more consistent tire contact patch in corners etc. The cheaper the tire, the less technology involved. There are dozens of inexpensive tires that would work perfectly well for day to day driving. If you really want Fantastic hook and grip, you are NOT gonna get it cheap or have it last long. Three things in tires. Price. Grip. Durability. Can't get all three at the different ends of the spectrum. IE Cheap, Sticky and Long Lasting. Not gonna happen. I have two sets of tires I run BFG KDWS's and F1 Supercars. You can feel the difference in the rain and Hook. Both aren't cheap either. KDWS's went about 50k and I drive em hard. Supercars won't last as long, but hook much better on dry hot tar.
    Nexen, Falken, Nitto and a few others are really decent tires for a lower budget. ( I get em at cost so I can play a bit with em) I sell ALOT of Nexen an Falken ( mostly to ricers tho ) But hell, I just stuffed a set of FK-452's on an 03 750il Bimmer ... That made me laugh my ass off, 90k car with cheap ass tires on it ? WTF over. If I was in your shoes, I would go Falken before Yoko's, but that's merely based on customer feed back, not personal experience. PM me if you need more tire help, I have TONS of info that most consumers don't typically get and would be happy to help you make a choice.
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  13. #33
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    Wow thanks. And tires lasting 50k? God DAMN! My only prelude tires barely lasted a damn year and thats no where near 50k. Try 10k. But thanks I'll PM you after work or something for sure.

  14. #34
    Old Enough to Know Better Crimson Sin's Avatar
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    Inflation, rotation and alignment - Largest cause of premature tire wear around. I am Meticulous about it. Tire life = less cash on rubber and more for mods Anytime man, I certainly don't know it all, but am happy to share what I do.

  15. #35
    Old Enough to Know Better Crimson Sin's Avatar
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    If you want a larger tire on your stock rims, you *should* be able to go to a 265/45/16 but that's an odd size and odd means more cash.
    In a 245/50/16 I carry a Falken ZE-912, sell for about 100 a pop, plus mount/balance/valve stem etc. Thats a fairly cheap tire for a DD sort of use.
    Hope that helps.

    PS
    The way the numbers on your tire work is as follows : the first number is the width in milimeters (245 mm wide) the second set: 50, is the percentage of height to width, IE the tire is 50% of the 245 high. Lastly is rim size. So a 245/50 is taller than a 245/45, but the same width.
    a 265/45/16 is damn near the same overall height that your stock rims are, but almost a full inch wider (25 mm is about an inch). You *should* be able to squeeze those onto your stock rims. But it may have a slightly bubbled look to the sidewall. I, personally, don't like that look. I want em flat as possible.
    Last edited by Crimson Sin; 08-02-2008 at 03:34 PM. Reason: PS

  16. #36
    War Machine BIG GUNS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01T-TopToy View Post
    I manage a Goodyear store in Portland and sell a ton of tires.. I sell everything, Falken, Michelin, Yoko's, Nexen etc. Falken's are a decent tire for the price. You DO not need a Z rated tire.. The rating is meant to show how LONG a tire can hold the speed it's rated for.. IE ZR rated Y tires are good for say (for examples sake) 168 mph for TEN hours. It has NOTHING to do with traction or handling, Just how long it can take the heat generated by going that fast for a set time (Think Autobahn <sp?>).
    The treadwear number 360, 400, 180 etc simply means it lasted X amount longer then the base tire they tested it against... 360 means it lasted 3.6 times longer then the base tire. NOT how many miles you will get from it. Traction rating is more important A AA B etc but has not much to do with lateral G's or off the line traction. I recommend going to Tire Rack and read the reviews of the tire you are looking at. Every manufacturer goes about it somewhat differently, carcass (construction) technology, tread technology, compound (rubber) technology etc to get the end result of handling and life expectancy. Pirelli uses a softer compound so they wear fast, Goodyear uses Carcass and Tread technology (Eagle GT HR with Race Wrap) to give a flatter more consistent tire contact patch in corners etc. The cheaper the tire, the less technology involved. There are dozens of inexpensive tires that would work perfectly well for day to day driving. If you really want Fantastic hook and grip, you are NOT gonna get it cheap or have it last long. Three things in tires. Price. Grip. Durability. Can't get all three at the different ends of the spectrum. IE Cheap, Sticky and Long Lasting. Not gonna happen. I have two sets of tires I run BFG KDWS's and F1 Supercars. You can feel the difference in the rain and Hook. Both aren't cheap either. KDWS's went about 50k and I drive em hard. Supercars won't last as long, but hook much better on dry hot tar.
    Nexen, Falken, Nitto and a few others are really decent tires for a lower budget. ( I get em at cost so I can play a bit with em) I sell ALOT of Nexen an Falken ( mostly to ricers tho ) But hell, I just stuffed a set of FK-452's on an 03 750il Bimmer ... That made me laugh my ass off, 90k car with cheap ass tires on it ? WTF over. If I was in your shoes, I would go Falken before Yoko's, but that's merely based on customer feed back, not personal experience. PM me if you need more tire help, I have TONS of info that most consumers don't typically get and would be happy to help you make a choice.
    Great info as well. I used to work for my uncle selling nothing but, Goodyear and Michellin. Goodyear used to be better than what they are nowadays. I think. Anyway, I went with Falken because of customer feedback. I am very happy with these tires both on the street and strip. Very low residue from burnouts too I might add. Strip residue is questionable as to who's it really is on your fender.

  17. #37
    Old Enough to Know Better Crimson Sin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIG GUNS View Post
    Great info as well. I used to work for my uncle selling nothing but, Goodyear and Michellin. Goodyear used to be better than what they are nowadays. I think. Anyway, I went with Falken because of customer feedback. I am very happy with these tires both on the street and strip. Very low residue from burnouts too I might add. Strip residue is questionable as to who's it really is on your fender.
    True to an extent, but really it's more that so many other companies make a better tire than they used to, so the difference is less noticeable. Goodyear and Michelin are the highest quality tires on the market, and tho it pains me, Michelin is the best you can buy. They have a failure rate of near to less then one in one million. Goodyear is closer to one in 850 thousand. Both substantial numbers. Michelin is also the most expensive tire you can get bar none. Others are much closer in price. BFG, Goodyear, Dunlop etc all tier one tires are closely matched in price.

  18. #38
    Member Eric1987's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01T-TopToy View Post
    If you want a larger tire on your stock rims, you *should* be able to go to a 265/45/16 but that's an odd size and odd means more cash.
    In a 245/50/16 I carry a Falken ZE-912, sell for about 100 a pop, plus mount/balance/valve stem etc. Thats a fairly cheap tire for a DD sort of use.
    Hope that helps.
    So are the Falken ZE-912's better than my Eagle HPs?

  19. #39
    Old Enough to Know Better Crimson Sin's Avatar
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    Eagle HPs are a fairly standard, run of the mill DD sort of Tire. So are the Falkens. They are merely cheaper. Performance wise ? Hook and grip ? Probably about the same. You may get a few more miles out of them. (Falkens) And the ZE-912s are probably a bit better in the rain. Hope that helps.

  20. #40
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    http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...d=013160&ar=50 the hankooks actually hook up pretty well...

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