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help ts|s fix his rear filler birdie: wet sanding?

This is a discussion on help ts|s fix his rear filler birdie: wet sanding? within the Appearance Section forums, part of the General Help category; Ok, so i'm going to repair my filler panel/birdie in the back. I've bought the following and think i'm on ...

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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Question help ts|s fix his rear filler birdie: wet sanding?

    Ok, so i'm going to repair my filler panel/birdie in the back. I've bought the following and think i'm on the right track, but if you guys can give me a little run down on the whole wetsanding/revitalizing aspect, i'd appreciate it!

    100 grit foam sanding bar
    220 grit 10"x10" paper sheets
    1000 grit 10"x10" paper sheets
    Universal match clearcoat spray
    Mequires Scratch X

    now what? keep in mind, i want to smooth the whole thing out so that the new vinyl birdie/"TransAm" lettering looks good in place, then clear over top of that so they'll never move.


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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    100 grit seems WAY too heavy.
    Used less grit to sand my front door.

    I am not all that familiar with wetsanding. I do know it takes a lot of work to clean up once done.
    Took a VERY solid cut with a rotary buffer to clean it up.

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    I really don't think that you need to start with 100 grit. I would start with 600. Or better yet, start with fin paper so that way you don't F it up or make more work for yourself.

    How do you plan on buffing it once you are done sanding?

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Can you give us a pic of what it is exactly you are sanding?

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    Hmm.. just a rag and soap and water cleaned up the one that was on an 00 WS6.. Are you trying to get rid of the bird.. or what?
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    Yo Da Lin The Valley..... astyles's Avatar
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    yea i would say 600 to 800 and use tons of water......then when done a real fine polish to shine it up then seal it

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    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    All I did was start with 600 and did the whole thing till it was off then hit it with 1000 then 1500 and buffed it. All of the sanding was done wet ofcourse. If you want mail it to me I'll do it.

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    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SandmanWs7 View Post
    All I did was start with 600 and did the whole thing till it was off then hit it with 1000 then 1500 and buffed it. All of the sanding was done wet ofcourse. If you want mail it to me I'll do it.
    i think i'm gonna do that since you offered =) Guess ts|s can say "we do that" now

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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    what i'm really trying to do is "level it" so that the bevel of the bird is non existant. that's why i was going to start with such a heavy grit...it was called a "surface smoothing brick"

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    my headlamps were fogged over... and i started with 1500.. then 2000... then 2500... then a polish... i know that not the same... but plastic polishes nice frm what i seen with 2500

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    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios View Post
    i think i'm gonna do that since you offered =) Guess ts|s can say "we do that" now
    I got clear so dont send me paint, just the center piece.

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    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios View Post
    what i'm really trying to do is "level it" so that the bevel of the bird is non existant. that's why i was going to start with such a heavy grit...it was called a "surface smoothing brick"
    yeah id start with 600, like a few guys have suggested, with a good flexible block (very important with all stages of wet sanding). and if that doesn't seem to do the trick go to 400. after a 600 run, go to 800 to 1000 to 2000. then a good buff should get that sucker shiny again. plastic can be tricky to sometimes to get back to shiny. when im workin with plastic parts, i usually get to about 600 and base/clear that bitch

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    38 of 139 PontiacFan's Avatar
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    I've done about a hundred of these over the last couple years. Sold them here, LS1Tech, & Ebay for $45-55+ shipped. 600, 800 (Sometimes even skip this one.), 1500, 2000 (Sometimes skip this one too.), with a simple 1/4 sheet sander, then on to glass polish, (Which is a bit heavier grit than the plastic polish.), then on to the plastic polish. Polishing is done with an orbital or circular type machine. Final wax & it's completed.
    Shouldn't be any need for clearcoat after the plastic polish if wet-sanded & polished enough tho.
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    $ 25,000 panty dropper VENOMOUS's Avatar
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    O.K. let's hear this from a pro, I custom paint for a living and all this talk of 110 grit blocks and 600 grit paper is ridiculus. Not saying those ways won't work but you're overdoing it. All you need is some 1500 3m sandpaper to sand the bird off then buff with a regular cut compound used to remove 1200 grit or finer cuts. Follow up with 3m foam pad glaze for dark colors to remove any fine "spider web" scratches.
    Now the hard part, if you are wanting to clear over the decals it's posible but I don't recommend it. That's why I airbrush things like that. What 'll happen is the chemicals that make up the clear are very solvent based and will eat into the decals, causing the adhesive to lift and the decals as well. I am still not recommending you do it but if you do, what I have done is to lightly spray a tack coat ( literally dust clear over the area with decals) and let it sit for about an hour, the clear will harden and SEAL off the decals from further exposure to solvent. Then apply your final coats of clear. The dust coat will not produce alot of solvent because most will be in atomized form and just be in the air, I repeat only dust the first coat and let dry.

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    when i do mine i am going to have the old bird removed and a true fire bird airbrushed on and then cleared...

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    Like everyone else said, 100 grit is WAY to coarse.

    I know what you mean about getting the 'bevel' off, I just did mine 2 weeks ago. I used a sheet of 600 grit, and that did the trick. It took a bit of work, but anything coarser would have scratched up the surface too much.

    I haven't gove over the 600 grit yet, so it looks good from a distance, but up close it looks dull. I plan on getting some 1500 grit like PontiacFan suggested, and going from there.

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