This is a discussion on Buffing headlights within the Appearance Section forums, part of the General Help category; I got the meguries (not sure how its spelled) Headlight kit to buff the haze out, And was wondering if ...
03-30-2010, 01:12 PM #1
I got the meguries (not sure how its spelled) Headlight kit to buff the haze out, And was wondering if you just buff the outside? I am in the middle of the whistler mod, and was wondering if I should do the inside as well?
03-30-2010, 02:54 PM #2
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- North of the Motorcity
Custom Swirly Black
- 2001 WS6 M6
Just outside! That's where the oxidation occurs, at least most of it. I used my nuematic grinder/cutter with the pad provided for deeper "cutting." Finishing off with a hand polish.
Last edited by KMdef9; 03-30-2010 at 03:36 PM. Reason: Can't spell/type too fast
03-30-2010, 03:05 PM #3
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
2001 3.8 Black - sold
- 2000 SS Black M6
I only did the outside, and it worked out great....i got the PlastX kit with the drill attachment and was very pleased
03-31-2010, 06:20 AM #4
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Pittsburgh, PA
My life is a
- Ben Stiller movie.
just make sure when you reassemble it there is no leaks or you WILL be buffing the inside quite often. good luck!
03-31-2010, 04:03 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Paterson/Ridgewood, NJ
Phantom Black Metallic
- 2004 GTO M6
Outside is all ya need. Just did mine today.
04-01-2010, 01:59 PM #6
Sanding down the haze is key before polishing in my experience.
I am sure meguiars product is good but 3M makes a great kit as well that I believe can still be picked up at a local AZ.
04-01-2010, 02:14 PM #7
04-01-2010, 08:13 PM #8
04-01-2010, 08:45 PM #9
That video is excellent and shows the proper way to the sanding process.
one thing I may add is that it will be a good idea to use a specialized clear coat after you're done to ensure longevity.
A good paint sealant works good and can hold the clarity for 4-5 months or longer if you apply it evey 2-3 months
Headlights come with a protective clear on it, that's why it yellows, yet if you want to avoid premature hazing -even after the sanding process- a clear coat diluted 1:1 with mineral spirits to make it thinner will be a good idea.
04-01-2010, 09:01 PM #10
I dupont clear is great if you have a gun and compressor, otherwise when I used to do them for car lots and friends that came by my apt. Instead of my shop I used duplicolor clear from any auto store or walmart. Put 3 to 4 coats on and after a month pit some wax on it just like tour car and you can have them buff them if you bring your car to get detailed. I do alot of headlights and smoking taillight, and cannot stress enough to have it done if you don't have the equipment I've seen too many people try to do it at home with that nightshades crap in a can an I have gotten several people new aftermarket lights and tinted them because there's just looked bad, not to mention one you have it done right you can wet sand and buff out small scratches and marks that may comes from washing or people leaning on them.1998 Trans Am 85k miles.
Bolt ons, MS3 113LSA cam, Circle D Stall, Tune, Modified WS6 style hood, Full Suspension, 6000k HID's, Clear Side Markers w/ Leds, Led 3rd Brake Light and 18" AR Staggered Killer Wheels w/ BFG KDW NT's.- Weekend Toy/DD
02 Trailblazer -Sold
09 Ram 1500 CC - Sold
09 Cobalt SS/TC - Sold
13 ram 1500 LoneStar CC 4x4 - Magnaflow, K&N,and more to come-DD/Toy
04-29-2010, 07:36 AM #11
so put some duplicolor clear coat on after following the 3m steps?
05-02-2010, 06:09 AM #12
That 3M headlight restoration kit is what I used as well. Worked very good.
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