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Base Coat over sanded clear

This is a discussion on Base Coat over sanded clear within the Appearance Section forums, part of the General Help category; Im currently painting part of my car and ive got it sanded down to where its completely dull from 320 ...

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    Base Coat over sanded clear

    Im currently painting part of my car and ive got it sanded down to where its completely dull from 320 sand paper however im still into the clear coat i havent reached the base coat yet. Can i apply base coat over this or should i keep sanding until i go into the basecoat. The car currently is completely flat and has no shiny parts on the paint.
    Thanks Dan-

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    What part of the car are you painting? Do shouldn't apply any basecoat over 320 grit sanded panels. You should go over it with a 500 grit minimal.

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    War Machine BIG GUNS's Avatar
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    Well, if he does that, would that be acceptable to paint over? That's what he is asking.

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    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    You can paint over the clear just sand it to blend. 800 works good. I just did this tonight to my car to clean up a fender and door panel.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Ok...Not to Hijack this thread but... Question? What if you were going to do a hood and you were going to repaint the whole thing the same color. Would you sand in to the base and then use a primer, base then clear? Or could you just get the clear smooth and then primer, base and clear? or should you just do base then clear?

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    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    yes you can apply base of sanded clear, but, like said above, use a finer paper before you spray.


    Quote Originally Posted by JaycenK View Post
    Ok...Not to Hijack this thread but... Question? What if you were going to do a hood and you were going to repaint the whole thing the same color. Would you sand in to the base and then use a primer, base then clear? Or could you just get the clear smooth and then primer, base and clear? or should you just do base then clear?
    i would just go base clear. primer would be a waste imo. especially being the same color, this will allow you to use less amount of base.

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    VERITAS & JUSTITIA NeedsaZ06's Avatar
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    I would suggest getting a good book or spending some time researching about paint and body work before hacking away @ paint with 320 grit. I'd only use 320 if i was planning on removing all paint from a surface and going to respray the entire car. 800 is good to cut through the clear and reach the base surface. If the surface is completely dull from 320, id say you made it through the clear....to say the least. You might have caused surface scratches well into the base paint depending on how long you've been sanding and might have to stair step up to 1000+ before you should re paint.

    i'd like to see some pics...

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    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeedsaZ06 View Post
    I would suggest getting a good book or spending some time researching about paint and body work before hacking away @ paint with 320 grit. I'd only use 320 if i was planning on removing all paint from a surface and going to respray the entire car. 800 is good to cut through the clear and reach the base surface. If the surface is completely dull from 320, id say you made it through the clear....to say the least. You might have caused surface scratches well into the base paint depending on how long you've been sanding and might have to stair step up to 1000+ before you should re paint.

    i'd like to see some pics...
    I disagree. I dont think he made a mistake with the 320. Even if he made it to the base in some places, it won't hurt anything. As long as he didn't sand through the orignal primer, hes ok. And assuming hes repaintin the hood because the paint (most likely the clear) was in bad shape, he needs to get the wore out layer of clear off there anyways. I do think he should go over the hood with a 400 or 500 grit before painting to be safe tho.
    300-600 grit is just right for prepping for applying paint, in my experience. It seems the very very slight texture (aka dullness) allows the new paint to bond to the old. And keep in mind, very small scratches (as low 320 grit scratches) that are still viewable after the base is applied, the clear will most likely fill and will not be seen.
    1000+ grit is prep for buffing, removing shallow scratched, or orange peel, not preppgin for paint.
    Last edited by GULLETT17; 04-23-2009 at 08:46 AM.

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    I would recommend 500 on area that you are applying basecoat and if you are blending I would recommend 1000 on you blend area. 320 is way to aggresive to just to apply basecoat over it needs to be 500 especially if it is a metallic.

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    Ok, lets take this one step at a time. If you are going to repaint a car and there is no body work or primer spots, you can just use a gray scratch brite to scuff the surface the base coat will cover the scuff marks. If you already used the 320 grit, you then need to go over those areas with atleast 500 and maybe 600 to clean up the 320 scracthes. With that said, the base and clear coat application should be done by someone who has done it before, it takes time and practice to get spray technique down.

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    Senior Member JaycenK's Avatar
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    Scuff pads are for the perfect world. I haven't seen very many body pannels that don't have some kind of acid pit in them. It just happens to every car. Not so much to garaged cars but ones that are out side get it all the time. Most you have to take a magnifing glass out to see them. Sanding for a blend should be done with 400 lightly to scuff the area and take the smooth off, then 800 or 1000 to take it down to the deapth you need it. Base coats are easy cuz they like to flash very quick. as long as you dont over paint the area base is easy. Clears on the other hand can be a pain if you don't know the settings you need for the gun because it like to flow fast and that means runs. Practice setting up the gun before spraying makes it go easy when it's time to do it for real.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Only reason i started withe the 320 was that I had a bunch of small nicks in the paint and i didnt wanna use a lot of bondo to smooth them out. Surprisingly the clear on the car is quite thick and I've yet to go through into the bascoat I'm smoothing it out today with 600-800 and shooting hopefully this weekend. Ill post pics when shes all put back together.
    Dan-

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    yea, the heaviest grit i would go with is 400, that doesnt leave sanding marks for flat colors like white, black, flat red. Silvers or greys you would have to prime and sand down with 600 so it wouldnt leave sanding marks. Thats my experience. I hope that helps. Also make sure you clean it really good, silicone remover, paint reducer watever you have to take all the garbage off the area before you paint.

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