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Auto body guys please help.

This is a discussion on Auto body guys please help. within the Appearance Section forums, part of the General Help category; I painted my nose peice and front fender on sunday but got blotches in the base coat. I resprayed it ...

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    Senior Member 02ultraZ's Avatar
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    Auto body guys please help.

    I painted my nose peice and front fender on sunday but got blotches in the base coat. I resprayed it and the base coat turned out great but I then got one large sag and two tiny runs on the nose piece in the clear coat. I just bought a tool called a nib file from the auto body supply shop and i am going to attempt to file down the runs. My question(s) are has anyone ever used this type of file? If so what was your outcome? And do you have any tips that could help me avoid problems? They paint is only two days old, I would say that the run is 1/16 of an inch thick, if i take off the top of the run, do you think inside the run the paint will still be liquid or soft? Once i have filed down pretty far should i then wet sand or finish it another way? I know that was a lot of rapid fire questions any help would be greatly appreciated.

    -Mike

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    Senior Member 02ultraZ's Avatar
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    Senior Member 02ultraZ's Avatar
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    Member Frozen WS6's Avatar
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    The nib file works pretty good. Just remember it will take it down very fast. So keep an eye on how much you have removed. Also don't go until it's completely flush since you will still want to sand it with some 1500 and then 2000 grit wet sand paper to smooth things out before buffing. I use to do that the next morning. After two days your paint will be fairly solid and fine.

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    Cookie Monster LukesSpeedShop's Avatar
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    Well I would skip the file.....never heard of it. The best thing you could do now is get some 1000 grit and a soft sanding block, and sand those runs out. Take lots of time doing it though. Chances are that you will end up burning through your clear coat a bit, and if you do, thats a whole nother can o worms, but can be touched up with some spot panel clear in a can. Anyways, after the 1000 grit, work up to 1500, then 2000. Finish off with a buffer, and you shouldnt be able to even tell they were ever there.

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    To be honest, I'd just go with some very fine sandpaper and a block that would fit the contour of the area being painted and wet sand it. Never used the file, but it sounds rough and the only time rough and paint should be used together is when....you're taking the paint down to repair or re-finish the part.

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    Senior Member 02ultraZ's Avatar
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    I want to start with the file because the runs are big enough to take em down. If i start off with the sand paper i will be taking down the clear coat that is surrounding it and burn the paint job as you said. I tried the file breifly last night and it seems like it will work. I am going to wait a little more until the paint hardens a little more. Thanks for all the responses i appreciate your help.

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    Member BURNEM's Avatar
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    You need a sanding block and start with 1000 that will knock it down quick. The file has a bad rep for tearing fresh paint! Just use as mention above with a lot of dish soap and water.

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    Senior Member 02ultraZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BURNEM View Post
    You need a sanding block and start with 1000 that will knock it down quick. The file has a bad rep for tearing fresh paint! Just use as mention above with a lot of dish soap and water.
    Yea thats why i was going to wait and let the paint harden a little bit. I have a sanding block and i will try both in a spot thats going to be hidden by my new grille. Which ever one that works the best i will start with, either way i will end up set sanding.

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    Member SS-Power's Avatar
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    I would stay away from the file. I don't like the file, it leaves scratches in the clear coat. Take a razor blade and tape up each end, so that only the center of the blade is exposed. Very gently scrape the run with the exposed part of the blade. The blade will knock down the majority of the run, but not all. You will burn through the clear if you try. Next , use 2000 grit sand paper on a block with soapy water. Sand the run gently. You will not get it perfect, doing these steps will only make it look a lot better. Depending on how picky you are, you might have to re-paint it. Let me know how you make out.

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    Senior Member 02ultraZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS-Power View Post
    I would stay away from the file. I don't like the file, it leaves scratches in the clear coat. Take a razor blade and tape up each end, so that only the center of the blade is exposed. Very gently scrape the run with the exposed part of the blade. The blade will knock down the majority of the run, but not all. You will burn through the clear if you try. Next , use 2000 grit sand paper on a block with soapy water. Sand the run gently. You will not get it perfect, doing these steps will only make it look a lot better. Depending on how picky you are, you might have to re-paint it. Let me know how you make out.
    Wow great tip man. I am definetly going to try this out. I tried the file and it did take a lot off and is leaving shitty marks. I will try a razor blade next and see how it comes out. Thanks for the info.

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    I used the razor blade trick sometimes also. The results were always good.

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    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frozen WS6 View Post
    I used the razor blade trick sometimes also. The results were always good.

    That is the only way I remove runs when I do get them. Works like a charm.

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    the razer blade always works good...blade it sand it real quick with some fine paper and buff it quick and ull be good

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