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Removing Swirl

This is a discussion on Removing Swirl within the Showcar and Detailing forums, part of the General Help category; What is the best method and product to remove swirls from the paint?...

  1. #1
    Member FMBL's Avatar
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    Question Removing Swirl

    What is the best method and product to remove swirls from the paint?

  2. #2
    Member flybird's Avatar
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    Mid Night Blue
    1999 Firebird 3.8 series

    Wax job with a elctric buffer? Idk if there are any other methods.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Sunset Orange Metalic
    2001 Camaro SS

    There really isn't a best product out there. If i were you i'd get on autogeek and learn as much as you can there. Too many products to list. Most would recommend a porter cable random orbital for a beginner, it's safe on paint and works great.

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    Member FMBL's Avatar
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    Just a wax job doesn't cut it. I have a Craftsman Polisher/ buffer. I have tried Miguiars swirl remover and it just doesn't seem to last the way I would like for it to.

  5. #5
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    The swirl removers are meant to remove what is left from the actual buffing process. Buffing compounds are more aggressive and leave the fine swirl marks even as you work your way down in compounds to polishes and cleaners. Swirl remover is very fine and removes those swirl marks. Even just the cleaners are more abrasive. I use 3M products. Works great for me.

    It shouldn't be an issue of lasting, once they are gone, they are gone. If you are still seeing them, it might be an issue of the swirl marks (actually fine scratches) are too deep for a really fine abrasive to do any good. You might end up going over the car first with something more aggressive like a mild polishing compound, (not a buffing compound), and then come back and hit it with swirl remover. After I'm done with that I always go over it with a good quality wax. Darker colors take more time and effort.

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    Member FMBL's Avatar
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    It is for a truck that I had repainted about 6 years ago. It is a very dark red and garage kept. I think I probably need to take a few more steps. With what I have been doing it looks great after waxing but after a few washes they start to show again.

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    Member flybird's Avatar
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    Mid Night Blue
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    @FMBL
    oh well looks like you know better than I do lol. I just wax the car n everthing is fine.

  8. #8
    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    The swirl removers are meant to remove what is left from the actual buffing process. Buffing compounds are more aggressive and leave the fine swirl marks even as you work your way down in compounds to polishes and cleaners. Swirl remover is very fine and removes those swirl marks. Even just the cleaners are more abrasive. I use 3M products. Works great for me.

    It shouldn't be an issue of lasting, once they are gone, they are gone. If you are still seeing them, it might be an issue of the swirl marks (actually fine scratches) are too deep for a really fine abrasive to do any good. You might end up going over the car first with something more aggressive like a mild polishing compound, (not a buffing compound), and then come back and hit it with swirl remover. After I'm done with that I always go over it with a good quality wax. Darker colors take more time and effort.
    Agree on the 3m products, I use 3m sratch doctor on my 20 year old orginal black paint car and some other products such as Parko after that.

    Works great.

  9. #9
    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMBL View Post
    It is for a truck that I had repainted about 6 years ago. It is a very dark red and garage kept. I think I probably need to take a few more steps. With what I have been doing it looks great after waxing but after a few washes they start to show again.
    Quote Originally Posted by FMBL View Post
    Just a wax job doesn't cut it. I have a Craftsman Polisher/ buffer. I have tried Miguiars swirl remover and it just doesn't seem to last the way I would like for it to.
    Your choice of machine and pads are going to make the most difference compared to your choice of compound and polish chemicals. You could throw "rocks in a bottle" on the wrong pad and not see a difference particularly with a puny little craftsman, your machine just doesn't have the cut @ 1600 RPMs. You'll want to step up to either a PCXP (6800 rpms) or Flex 3401 (9600rpms).

    Pad selection is endless. You'll want at least 4 cutting pads and 4 polishing pads to do the whole truck. Companies like Lake Country and Meguiars make some excellent pads. As for chemicals, I truly love Meg's M105/205 and D300/301 combinations. You may also want a finessing pad (normally crimson or gray) with a fine polish like Adams FMP or Menzerna 85rd
    Last edited by third_shift|studios; 02-23-2012 at 06:38 AM.

  10. #10
    Member FMBL's Avatar
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    Thanks Jaison. That gives me something to work with. Always looking for a better process.

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