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Porter Cable.. Good Deal??

This is a discussion on Porter Cable.. Good Deal?? within the Showcar and Detailing forums, part of the General Help category; Wanting to buy one and found this. This a good deal or not? http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7...2401467&sr=8-2...

  1. #1
    I flame retards CamaroFan71's Avatar
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    QuickSilverMetallic
    2005 GTO M6

    Porter Cable.. Good Deal??

    Wanting to buy one and found this. This a good deal or not?

    http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7...2401467&sr=8-2

  2. #2
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Red Tint Jewelcoat
    2008 Trailblazer SS

    For everything that comes with it....pretty good deal.

    Who makes those pads? Lake Country?
    I picked my pads, products, and PC up for $219 I believe. Prima products and Lake Country pads.

  3. #3
    I flame retards CamaroFan71's Avatar
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    QuickSilverMetallic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Luos View Post
    For everything that comes with it....pretty good deal.

    Who makes those pads? Lake Country?
    I picked my pads, products, and PC up for $219 I believe. Prima products and Lake Country pads.
    I dont think its Lake Country. But I could be wrong. Wanting to try and do my own detailing from now on. Is it hard to get the hang of?

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    400rwhp::370rwtq Lucky 13's Avatar
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    2002 T/A WS.6 -- ASC#12

    No, its pretty easy, just do a little research on the process, and with that buffer you cant burn the paint, so its a great starting/medium level buffer. Look at autopia.org for tips and tricks and then also look at tropi-care.com for a buffer/pad kit for less, which comes with samples as well. You can buy his prducts and they work great! He also carries Menzerna polish which is badass at a good price

  5. #5
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Red Tint Jewelcoat
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky 13 View Post
    He also carries Menzerna polish which is badass at a good price
    GREAT stuff!!!

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    Senior Member Z06-Goose's Avatar
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    LC CCS pads. Yuppers!

  7. #7
    I flame retards CamaroFan71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky 13 View Post
    No, its pretty easy, just do a little research on the process, and with that buffer you cant burn the paint, so its a great starting/medium level buffer. Look at autopia.org for tips and tricks and then also look at tropi-care.com for a buffer/pad kit for less, which comes with samples as well. You can buy his prducts and they work great! He also carries Menzerna polish which is badass at a good price
    Excellent tips. Thanks for the input guys.

  8. #8
    2-Legit-2-Quit bgable's Avatar
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    if you get it let us know how hard it was to figure out im debating on getting one...decisions decisions

  9. #9
    Junior Member WetSpot's Avatar
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    When polishing set the buffer on slow so you dont build up heat and use a slight to no amount of presure. heat is what burns the paint. So make sure your buffer has a speed adjustment nob. Also if you want to practice on some thing first go to the junk yard and get a cheap 10 dollar hood or door or both and go at it . I try all my new products this way. Hope it helps.

  10. #10
    2-Legit-2-Quit bgable's Avatar
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    i thought you couldn't burn the paint with a PC 7424?

  11. #11
    Junior Member WetSpot's Avatar
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    silver
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    Dont know what a PC465387654 is but i dont care what "thay" say try it first before you ever touch it to your car. Thay say the Sham wow will wipe the stink off a monkey ...but we all know better

  12. #12
    400rwhp::370rwtq Lucky 13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bgable View Post
    i thought you couldn't burn the paint with a PC 7424?

    You are correct

  13. #13
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    I saw pics where a guy burned right through his clear/paint down to primer with a PC7424. All is takes is a aggressive pad, too much pressure, or letting the pad go dry. I will tell you it would take alot to burn through a F body clear cause its hard as hell. Use the proper pad and common sense and you will be ok.

  14. #14
    Junior Member WetSpot's Avatar
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    silver
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    Just try it on an old junk yard hood or 2 or 3 ( thay will more than likely let you take it for free if you tell them you will polish it and bring it back) , get the feel of what ever type of motorized machine you are going to be touching to your paint its that easy. We could explane it to you all day long. But, in the end you wont feel comfortable until you have tried it your self. BTW That looks like a good deal.

  15. #15
    I lika da Chevy's LETHALxLS1's Avatar
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    Here is a video to give you a idea how to use the 7424 to remove swirls-

    http://www.auto-geek.net/video/Inter...l_removal.html

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    I think its a very good deal. I bought one before grr.... I should have waited for the sale. lol....



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    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    Umm, you can't burn the pain with a Porter Cable. I've had mine on speed 6 many times with an orange pad and I can hold it in one place and put pressure on it till the pad stops spinning and it won't hurt a thing. Having said that, I'd skip the PC and go straight to the Flex. You'll be glad you did.

  18. #18
    Member ghettosled's Avatar
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    i anyone wants to experiment/learn on my DD 1996 toyota camry, feel free to come over and clean it up!

  19. #19
    Junior Member WetSpot's Avatar
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    silver
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    Your asking a question to people that most have no knowledgable expereince in . A buffer with speed control will do a much better job altho, not as safe to an inexperienced user. Some times you need to put some preasure on a spinning buffer, All cars are different, that porter cable my be great for your car or a garaged car But, trust me when you see the lil dots and smear marks that wont come off the paint its called contaiments. You will see it most on daily drivers. If you want glass you can do it in 2 stages if car is not that bad. If really scratched do 3stages. First wash car with dawn dry completely buff with a ruff cut machine compound and foam pad. Dont worry about the splatter just try to stay away from the ruff plastic, Wash car again with dawn and a scrub brush to remove all the dry compound in spots that you dont want it around the headlights and tail lights,door ,hood, jams ect. If car is fairly smooth ( to the back of your nails) Than just do these 2 stages . Use a medium cut compound/ polish witha a foam pad cut it in on a slower speed then as it dries turn up the speed a bit, work as per the instruction some thing like 2 x 2 foot area dont worry if some stays behind.
    Wash car again to remove all traces of the medium cut ( I also do the glass with the medium cut on this stage) Then move to a polish/ sealer, fine cut, glaze what ever thay wana call it. But, wash your foam pad by hand in hot water with dawn. Then apply the polish a lil faster than the others. In a 2x2 foot spot and turn it up in speed as it hazes you will get most of it off at this point but dont worry if its not all off yet. Now take "buffing pad" on a simi high speed and buff er out it wont take all the compound off but a wipe down with a damp cotton towel will. Add some coats of your wax and Your paint will be as smooth as a black babies heel. This is what I do . I im not a writer, I make paint smooth. But try it on a junk yard hood before you touch it to your car.
    Wet.

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