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Painting Tips

This is a discussion on Painting Tips within the Showcar and Detailing forums, part of the General Help category; I'm having a major bitch of a time painting some stuff and I'm this close }{ to just buying new ...

  1. #1
    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    Angry Painting Tips

    I'm having a major bitch of a time painting some stuff and I'm this close }{ to just buying new products and having them professionaly shot.

    I wanted to permenatly gloss up a few items in the engine; the intake lid and base that it sits on as well as the TCS unit's cover.

    I washed them all and sprayed with modeling paint-it crinkled up and so i figured "well car paint might work better"

    So i sanded them and shot with Duplicolor Universal Black. It did an orange peely kinda thing, so i sanded them and shot them again. More orange peel. Sanded again and now have huge voids that have ripped away from the pieces, OR i have ugly runny/rivery looking junk. Needless to say, all the sanding and respraying is pissing me off. Is this all because I didn't primer? Do i have any chance to save these pieces? Should i strip the paint and start over, buy new ones and have them done?

    Note to current/future/past customers: Make no mistake, i'm not the guy who did/is/will be painting anything that you order-production is directed by SandmanWS7 who knows how to professionally finish a piece off.

  2. #2
    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    Yes always primer and sand that will give you a smooth finish.

  3. #3
    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    the orange peel is from the intake itself, they are not smooth. put enough primer and sand till it is smooth.....


    or ship it to me and I'll do it.

  4. #4
    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    you mean the deck lid isn't smooth-i'm not even to the intake yet

    so should i strip off what i've got so far?

  5. #5
    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios View Post
    you mean the deck lid isn't smooth-i'm not even to the intake yet

    so should i strip off what i've got so far?
    yes

  6. #6
    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    ALso see if the autoparts store sell an adhesive spray. I know here we have an adhesive that we can shoot under base coats to make sure the paint/primer will stick to it. And I am not talking bout 3M adhesive. Its a special adhesive used for painting.

  7. #7
    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    I've heard of that...so does that go on before or after primer?

  8. #8
    lmpounded SandmanWs7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios View Post
    I've heard of that...so does that go on before or after primer?
    before

  9. #9
    Member Mike's TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios View Post
    you mean the deck lid isn't smooth-i'm not even to the intake yet
    Just had to comment. That made me laugh so hard. Great use of Smilies!!!!

  10. #10
    formally 01 T/A 0verkill's Avatar
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    im not a painter buy any means and want to paint a bunch of stuff on my ta to but when i have done interer parts on my last show car i used and had good luck with rc car body paint

  11. #11
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    plastic stuff always seems like a pain to me. . . always remember to use paint prep/cleaner. if not, at least use reducer to clean all parts.. do this many times to make sure any oils/contaminents(sp?) are gone. this is what most likely causes the paint to seperate or fish eye (this is when the paint is orange peeling to the extreme, normal orange peel is usually just do to the spray of your gun). next important is the primer. make sure it is a primer for plastic and/or is flexible primer. hope this helps man!

  12. #12
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    sandman pm me with what you charge to paint stuff...i may have some work...

  13. #13
    Junior Member DevilDougWS6's Avatar
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    sand starting with 400 grit, then do 600, then 800, then 1500, CLEAN, then spray with adhesion promoter, then primer lightly, sand with 1500 grit, primer more, sand again, primer more, sand again, clean, spray with color lightly, wait, repeat, wait, repeat, spray clear, etc etc etc.

  14. #14
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DevilDougWS6 View Post
    sand starting with 400 grit, then do 600, then 800, then 1500, CLEAN, then spray with adhesion promoter, then primer lightly, sand with 1500 grit, primer more, sand again, primer more, sand again, clean, spray with color lightly, wait, repeat, wait, repeat, spray clear, etc etc etc.
    many thin coats will prevent running. . . however clear you will need to spray enough to get a smooth coat, too lightly will give a rough texture and more extreme orange peel

  15. #15
    Member Piranhaz's Avatar
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    A good piece of advice that most seem to miss is to clean the part with wax and grease remover thoroughly before doing any prep work at all, that includes sanding. We had some guys that worked at the old shop that would sand the part before cleaning it up and basically it spreads the contaminants on/in the part and they would get fish-eyes all the time. Just my .02

  16. #16
    Senior Member GULLETT17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piranhaz View Post
    A good piece of advice that most seem to miss is to clean the part with wax and grease remover thoroughly before doing any prep work at all, that includes sanding. We had some guys that worked at the old shop that would sand the part before cleaning it up and basically it spreads the contaminants on/in the part and they would get fish-eyes all the time. Just my .02

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